I guess the easy solution would be to just remove the rubber U shaped hose from the old style pumps and connect the accordion plastic hose just past the Y junction. This is basically what they did on the latest version pumps it looks like. It's hard to see in your pics Sam but the check valve is still there, correct?

I actually just bought some 5/16 fuel line rated at 6.9bar and will most likely run that from the Y junction all the way to the lid skipping the U and the plastic pipe. The line feels very durable and it came off the roll with a nice tight loop and I think it will work well as you have to loop it in the tank. I don't have too much faith in the plastic accordian stuff either.

 

Yes the check valve is there. Not installed yet if you would like to request a pic of anything. You can definitely get rid of that piece. The accordion stuff is actually pretty good. Using rubber lines gets cumbersome in there. Call or text me anytime bud

 

^is the accordion stuff available to buy separately?
And John, is the hose you bought 'submersible' style like I posted in the other thread? Needs to be or the outer skin will disintegrate.
Cheers,
Rob

 

The accordion stuff is not sold separately. The hose I'm getting is a submersible 5/16 ID fuel line make by Gates. It has a working pressure of 100psi with a burst pressure of 500psi. Sold in 1' sections. You will need 2', using 1' section separated by the check valve. This will give enough working length with being too cumbersome. It's not cheap at $30 per foot. Oreilly has it along with Napa which sells it rebranded under their name. Oreilly part number is 27093 and Napa part number is H209.

As you pointed our Rob, many people don't realize you can't just stick any fuel line or -6AN in the tank without running into issues with the lines deteriorating over time as it comes into contact with fuel. Guys blindly sticking -6AN line in the tank, make sure the line is designed to be submersible. Most are NOT...

 

goodstuff! the Gates hose is what I posted in the other thread...good to know the Oreilly/NAPA cross-reference #'s

 

+1 - also worth making sure the line supports ethanol too.

For those that are running #an lines I would look into also running the check valve externally. Jegs sell a high flow valve, that you can place anywhere in the line. I run mine infront of the fuel filter near the transaxle. If there is an issue its right there, and I don't have to go back into the tank.

 

I wish there was a good replacement or source for the clear accordion hose. Mine has never been replaced to my knowledge and I fear it's time is coming. I'll know more when I swap in the SRM fuel system but a new basket is expensive just to get those hoses...

 

Getting the install wrapped up. These are my observations and some things Sean can take under consideration on the future kits. The factory quick disconnects do not fully clip in to the SRM nipples in the hat due to the fact that the retainer ring machined into the nipple is about 1mm smaller in diameter than on the OEM nipple which prevents the QDs from fully engaging. I believe this needs to be redesigned to ensure the lines do not disconnect from the hat since its the pressure of the O-ring seal that basically keeps it on. On the OEM nipples, the QDs clip in and can not be pulled loose unless the grey release button is pressed. On the SRM nipple, the QDs can be pulled free with a strong tug meaning the retainer rings don't fully engage due to their smaller diameter. See the picture below of the two side by side as a comparison.

Second, the large hole in the top of the fuel basket hat that the black plastic pipe goes into needs to be marginally larger for the hose to fit it. I ended up using a round file in an air tool to ream the hole out slightly. Took about 5 min, not a big deal. Same applies to the hole that the accordion fuel return hose plugs into in the top of the fuel basket. It need to be slightly larger. Again, 5 minutes with a file. I ended up removing the rubber "U" and the accordion supply line and installing two pieces of the Gates submersible fuel line separated by the check valve. Those two pieces of line cost $70!!

Quick question... Are the two black rubber lines that form the upside down "V" that come out of the top of the SRM fuel basket fuel submersible lines??? There is no designation on them to that effect. These must be of the submersible variety otherwise they will degrade and swell. Hope Sean can chime in.

Great product other wise and I think once a few of these bugs get ironed out this will be a perfect plug and play deal.... This is not a critique of the kit but rather an observation of areas that may possibly be improved going forward.

 

Pwderhound, what stage did you go with? If you replaced the injectors, what size and brand. Also, what fuel are you planning to run? Pump?

 

I am installing the single pump set up with a -6AN supply line going to the stock rails. OEM fuel filter is deleted from the engine bay and a freer flowing fuel filter is mounted in the center of the tunnel on the cross brace that normally supports the front diff on AWD cars. My injectors are UMW. I've been running them for over a year. They are visually identical to OEM except internally resized to UMW spec by the manufacturer (Bosch?). The nozzles are much bigger. Programming will be 91 with a 91/100 mix at the track.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Did all of the quick disconnect lines just pull off? We found that the ones inside the tank on our shop car appeared chipped/worn but the ones on the outside of the tank clipped on and did not pull off.

Thanks

 

Yes, the QDs just pulled off the SRM nipples with a strong tug. When connected to the OEM nipples, they could not be pulled off. The OEM retainer ring is 10.5mm while the SRM ring is 9.5mm, give or take. I did not look at the in tank jet pumps connections but I would say they are all the same dimensions so the same issues would apply.

 

The jet pump connections were machined in house, please test those before assuming the same issue applies. The QD -6 fittings are from ATP turbo, we don't have a fancy enough machine to make those yet.

 

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I am figuring that under pressure these would disconnect eventually, no? I have SRMs Stage 1 with ID 1300s that will be going in at some point, but may wait to install SRM kit until all this is figured out. Or just order the rest of the parts for Stage 3.

 

So far this is the first report we have had and he is probably #15 to install the kit.