doesn't appear there is much if anything TO rebuild?! but i fully agree and said as much a moment ago, but thats just the thing man it's factory for a gt2! for "us" it's modified and uses gt2 parts by punching a hole in the case to accommodate the line, that one went into the ps reservoir? no?!

so the "properly" done ( tap n drill ) method is still, a fair amount of "not stock" for me. that BBI unit looks like a factory 96t slave, presumably mounts where the slave mounted, and done. is how i'm seeing this shakeout. though i could be totally wrong such an important part/mod, and the flipside is i have yet to hear of ANY complaint from one who has tap and drilled though either!

wish the bbi unit had some more street time we could access reports of

 

They are usually easy to rebuild and would be cost efficient considering they are around 1100$. Of course things change maybe none of the slaves are rebuild able now days?

 

the transmission already has the bosses on the gt2 side. its simply drill in 1" and tap. center between the studs and drill a 3/4" hole with a step bit. done. install the clutch fork and mark the inside with a sharpie were it touches the case. use a dremel and clearance the side. this entire process takes less than 45 minutes. for the p/s pump remove the coupler from the back and just plug off the lines at the slave with a piece of tubing and a bolt and clamp if you want.
i can't for the life of me understand why folks will spend 1000$ for the evoms setup or 1200$ for the bbi but refuse to spend 700$ and a few hrs of their time for the factory PROVEN method. its baffling. if you were to get into a 996 turbo that had this done and have never driven it with the assisted slave you would think this is how it is supposed to be. i drive a big rig with a clutch that will break your knee in rush hr traffic. these clutches are sissy clutches at best.

 

Ditto to what Krazy said. Well, except for driving a big dog.

I don't do that

 

oops! autocorrect. but i do drive a mack on occasion!

 

i have driven one with the gt2 conversion. it feels like a porsche clutch, the kind i grew up with. or like i imagine a gt3 clutch would also "feel". i think you may be confusing my reservations with the end result as opposed to the methodology that has heretofore been available to us.

if you're telling me that this tap and drill method is the exact same setup as gt2's are built with? then i withdraw immediately any reservations i have. its isn't about the end result, as i fully agree that the assisted clutch setup is an abomination. it's just the drilling holes where once there were none that i'm not in favor of. but far less so than the bracket alone. that one forget it.

so if the gt2 has a hole punched in its case from the factory, then i'm all about it. if not, i'd prefer the newer contraption ( from what little of it i know/understand ) as offered by BBI/house.

one way or another, and one day, my clutch will operate as it should ( have ) lol.

 

yes case is the same. when its spec'd for a gt2 its drilled and tapped on the drivers side. for a turbo its hole is punched for a turbo slave on the passenger side. if you were to look inside the bell housing you can see the reinforced bosses that haven't been drilled on a turbo trans. center the gt2 slave (with the rod removed and mark the mount holes. drill it and its a perfect fit for the gt2 slave.when you place the slave on the flat surface you can see it lines up perfect with the shape of the trans mount point. the center hole is for the rod to go thru. 3/4 " is a easy fit with a step bit. from home depot get a 1 3/8"? chrome cap and it pops in right over the turbo slave hole. nice and neat

 

What Krazy is saying is exactly correct. There is nothing different on the GT2 and TT transmission case. Its the same casting. The only difference is the fact that the factory for the TT application did not drill and tap the two holes on the left side of the case along with drilling the hole for the slave rod to go through. The bosses are already there. When you drill and tap the case you are doing what Porsche omitted for the TT application. Pure and simple... This is what most people don't understand... When done properly, you end up with the exact same proven system that is on the GT2/3.

 

While I have the transmission out I figured this is a good time to get cleaning. The dirt in there was driving me insane. You saw what that transmission looked like. So I ran to Lowes and grabbed some plastic drop sheeting and built an enclosure as to not wet the whole garage or mess.

First I strapped the motor like this so I could remove the jack.




Then the plastic sheeting.











Thank goodness I have a hot water hookup to the pressure washer too because laying under there getting drenched sucked lol. Good thing I have a drain in the center of the car in the garage floor.

Next came about 45 minutes of drying with the air compressor and ear plugs.

Lowered the car and decided to work on the power steering mod for the GT2 clutch conversion. I only got as far as removing the intake tube, getting dark and late.




Ahh I recognize the power steering unit there from the DIY articles. Glad its coming out actually because its all dirty and needs cleaning.





Decided to lift the car back up and leave a box fan blasting on it and dry up any moisture I missed with the air compressor.

 

Gotta' say, really appreciate the level of detail you're putting into this! Between your comments and those of others people down the line ill have a much easier time doing this kind of work themselves. FWIW the dirt under my car is driving me crazy and I'll do some cleaning myself once another car has been POR'd.

Folks might find this interesting as well

 

Glad to hear. That's what its all about, helping each other out.

 

huge difference for me and the conclusion i had come to in that the TT case has the OMISSION rather than it was never intended to be drilled.

learn something here daily. thx steve and john for the clarification. i dont get under the car as often as you guys do and half the time i do, i'm only half aware of what i'm seeing and i'm always a spectator not ever wrenching so i'm an armchair owner as you guys are no doubt aware, so my fears may be unjustified but i;'m learning and appreciate the explanation. still think it's good to have the other option though.

agree, highly informative thread. cheers to macolmv8.

 

Little more progress today. Pulled the factory slave initially and tried to catch most the fluid there to reduce how much dumped over the engine.




Either I just don't know how these quick disconnects work or this one was seized like a ****. The ends were starting to round I was pulling so hard so instead I just removed the lower fitting directly from the pump.




For those that don't know the reservoir just pulls out the top of the pump. Have a cup ready cause it dumps whats left in there all over.




The four ports on the top of the reservoir




A, P, and T2 need to get plugged.




Found these at my local hardware store. 1/8th NPT on the three bigger ones... shoot forgot what the smaller one was. Probably 1/4.




T2 is the most difficult to do. You need to pop the red piece of plastic out and pull the two orings out. Then you see that brass or copper ring at the top. You need to drill it out. I tried tapping it but it starts to spin in there and you can't go any further.




Work your drill bits up till 1/2" which will spin the ring out.




Now you can tap the deeper part. It's pretty hard because you don't have much depth left to work with but it'll work.




All tapped and plugged.




For the pump itself you'll remove and discard that hose you see in this pic and also remove those four bolts on the back and split the pump in half.




When it splits all the way open remove the center coupling piece. It looks like a shaft with a torx almost looking spline on each side.




This tiny sucker. Now close the pump back up. This essentially puts the back half of the pump in neutral. The part that used to spin and pump pressure to the clutch slave.




Tapped and plugged the pump too. This is the back part where I said discard that hose.




Looks like I need to order a new oring before closing this back up. The old one is rock hard and flat. I don't have much faith in it sealing if I attempt to reuse it. So it'll be next week before I can close this up and put it back as I wait on a new gasket to arrive.




The old hoses that ran from the slave to the pump over the motor removed. Fairly easy except the hard pressure line. It took some muscle and fighting and even two cuts. I was under the car wrestling it and a buddy who swung by lent a hand from over the engine side. We got it out after a few minutes though.




While not really clutch related I'm excited to see what this car will do once I get it going. The clutch has been bad and slipping ever since I've owned it. I put some Toyo Proxes R888s on the back before I started the clutch job so I figured I better get the front up to par too. The Michelin PS up front are rock hard. You could split diamonds with them lol. I think they're just heat cycled way to much and probably old. So UPS dropped these off for me today 235/40/18 (I have GT2 spec rims on the car). I'll pull the front wheels and get these mounted tomorrow and be ready for when the clutch job is done

 

The gasket on the reservoir is not sold separately. It only comes as part of the reservoir. The reservoir on your car has a TSB on it as many were faulty and redesigned. I bought the GT2/Tip version which does not have any of the plugs in the lid and started with a brand new part.

 

Ah that stinks. Guess I'll clean it very well and put a really thin bead of silicon with it to seal then. Any idea what TSB was about? Not saying I'm not affected but the car is 11 years old and 100k miles and going strong. Doesn't seem like there's any issue with it.