^^^That's what I was planning on doing (besides the normal rebuild stuff)...maybe some cams/valve train upgrades if I can swing it at that time.

 

This is what I did, 1000hp all day long

 

Fadi which headstuds and rod bolts did you go with ?

 

Used a simple formula
Pauter rods
Raceware studs
Cometic headgasket

Did also very light polish job on heads
This is all...

Maybe would add some light valvetrain mods and cams for big turbo setups, but I am going smaller turbo... Lol

 

My advise to get Carillo Rods instead of pauter , not because pauter is bad ... Puater rated to 1000hp , carillo is way more !

Now am rebuilding my engine again because I can not go more than 2.0bar 35s turbos .. Afraid of the Rods damage !
So do it one time and you will be safe

 

Carrillo rods, swap the oil pump for clearance, good headstuds. That's my eventual plan, don't even want to crack the halves. I could be convinced to do sleeves maybe but then I might want more displacement KISS!

 

is raceware the same as ARP

 

yes in theory you can. the issue once the motor is open theres a few things that should happen to take advantage of the time its apart .

pauter rods require no oil pump cleanse.
carrillo rods are said to be stronger in the weak areas ( cap and bolt areas) but require oil pump clearancing unless you use a 4.0 pump
racewear headbolts are the ones to use . can't say why the arp won't hold as they are the choice for dozens of engines. but not for these motors.
raceway headbolts require 2 complete heat cycles and a RETORQUE. this means the motor has to come back out and the cams removed to do this. more $$$

while the motor is out have the cylinders oringed. also have the builder do some light head work. nothing crazy just clean them up. same for the headers.
if you have the cash install the gt2 manifolds. made of metal and holds higher boost

you have one of the best engine builders in the world already working on your car. get with him and follow his advice. he won't steer you wrong.
now remember once the motor is built and you have a 1000 hp monster the axles and trans won't last for long. so plan on another 10k$ to address this.

 

32krazy

Thx, yeah, Tim is so busy he didnt even go to the Tx Mile... he has been doing 18 hr days on his other business so I wanted to get ideas and then go to him

 

i know he is crazy busy. you have no idea how lucky you are to have him in your backyard. i would be there every day if he was in mine!!

 

I would point out that at least one builder has found a way around the need to R&R the engine after running it for a retorque. SRM built a hotbox capable of heating the engine to full temp, did so, and then retorqued the headbolts! Seems damned smart to me. Is there any reason not to run the 4.0 oil pump? Could the existing oil pump be pulled, clearanced, and put back in? Frankly I'm wanting to do as little as possible on a well built well running engine to get it back on the road when that day comes

 

yeah, trouble is everyone from Long Island goes there as well

 

An engine build can be a VERY slippery slope......if you are in there I recommend ringing the heads and going the huge headstuds......

 

Plan for a big bill when you open her up.

 

yeah I hear you... my plan is the following and maybe everyone can correct my thinking....

NB The missus freaks when she sees my car bills so I have been drip feeding $5-$6k here and there into it... also gives me time to get used to the power and mods.

So far I have gone from an old GIAC tune and AWE GT2 exhaust at 520 bhp or so to an upgraded fueling system, Eurodyne tune = 570 bhp or so, to RWD, to MAFLESS and E85 so my 60 to 130 times have gone from 8.8s - 8.3s - 7.8s - 7.2s or so now down to 6.50 s (very cold temps) and corners I used to take on old Potenzas at 52 mph I can now take at 60 mph on R888s.

So choices now

A
1. TIAL Alpha 3076r
2. EBC
3. 1400 cc E85 injectors (I have ID1000 now)
4. E85 tune at 1.4 bars ramped from 1 bar in peak torque area to 1.4 bar above 5000 rpm

or

4a. 93 octane tune running rich so I can use E30 fuel and keep ID1000s and not worry so much about the torque limits

or



B

Mild engine build and keep current set up until after summer

1. Carillo rods
2. Racewear headstud and bolts
3. ID 1400cc

Then when I am used to the new set up add the turbos and turn that boost up