I would throw a bit of penetrating oil at them, let sit for a few minutes and gently pry off with a blade type screwdriver. Twist the screw driver handle, don't use as a prybar, they should pop off.

 

Worked like a charm. Many thanks !

 

Those are Cup car shifter cables. I grease the cups on those upon reassembly. Also, the ends are just 10mm trunk gas shock ends or ball sockets. They are the all metal versions. If you go online you can find replacement ends and those retainer clips.

 

Great thread. Thanks for all the time and effort put into the post.

Just fyi, I left the rear axles in and it came out very smooth. For anyone who wants to do it that way, the starter has to come out on the passenger side and there is a small clip that routes the coolant lines on the driver side right by the axle mount that has a single 10mm that has to come off. Otherwise it comes down fine with leaving halfshafts in place.



Thanks

 

YW! Yes, you can leave the axles in I found after writing this thread. I've pulled the engine a few other times and left them in. It made things far easier.

 

Hey crash, can you plug this line back in with out dropping the motor?

 

Kind of. I lowered the engine a bit and you can. There is the brace going across the bottom and I often lower the engine and sit it on there gently. Thatll likely give you the room to get back there. I always think of it as maint mode when I lower it like that.

 

I know what you are talking about, done it to get to the #16. So if you rest it on the cross member you have access to the vacuum reservoir and the pneumatic secondary valve? B/c that’s what it looks like I will need access to... thanks for the reply btw.

 

How did it go? On my car the vacuum reservoir where the line to the rubber coupling attaches is broken. I need to replace the vacuum reservoir which is attached to the intake runners. Is that an engine out proposition?

 

Ya, I think so. In fact I’m pretty sure it is. I didn’t even bother wasting hours of my life trying to reattach it. Huge maybe if you remove the reservoir for the power steering pump and/or maybe the intake. Or, just buy a new res, extend a new line and jam that ****** anywhere there is room and deal with it when the motor is out for something else. They are $30 from pelican and $40 on amazon. Save yours of your life and sanity.

 

Great. I thought of doing just that. I already have the reservoir and a new line. I'll go down to the garage and see if I can find a spot for it. I feel like jamming it right by its brother the air pump!

 

Lifesaving thread!!! I am very close to getting the motor out, planning on doing it this morning (most of the disassembly done) but I wanted to confirm if anyone knows how to leave the AC on the car without unhooking any lines. I just had my AC refilled before my coolant fitting blew so I prefer not letting out the AC. Also, does the hydraulic P/S unit need to come off or stay with the motor?

About the clutch slave cylinder, is the green hose going to the slave the only thing I need to unplug?

 

Regarding the ac, you have to unplug the electrical connector and a single small ground wire (mine was kind of a pain), and then just unbolt the compressor from the bracket. Hang it over the rear bumper with a towel in between, while keeping the lines connected and intact. This stays with the car

PS pump: yes you have to take the lines out. Its easiest if you also spin the pulley and remove the fluid from the reservoir repeatedly. Otherwise it goes everywhere. That unit stays with the engine


Slave: I believe you're correct. Its just the green qd fitting. It comes out with the engine/trans

 

So the engine is out for pinning. My clutch was slipping when boost would kick in so I took it apart to inspect it. Sorry in advance for the noob questions--this is my first time working on a MT car and I don't know how the clutch components should look like. My uncle worked on a few of his Porsche's and he's helping me along the way.

I am assuming the disc is toast. Thickness is 7.5mm (don't know what the original thickness was).
The flywheel and pressure plate seem glazed. I don't know what exactly is causing the clutch to slip but the transmission seems like it has some oily gunk inside (see flywheel photo)

There's also a small crack on the bearing so I'm sure that needs to be replaced.

Can anyone tell by the pictures what clutch parts I'd need to replace?

 

mixing new and old clutch parts is a dubious proposition. *sometimes" it's ok to re-use the dmfw if there is enough material.

but why not just r&r with all new matching parts now to save having to replace later. all at once is best. from the pics alone. that's what i would do.