correct... besides the idle RPM there are a couple other tweaks to ensure the car doesn't die when idling down in neutral. Learned that the hard way.

 

Same thing being echoed here in greater detail for those who don't want to take Pwdr's word for it:

Install - http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-g...l#post13080709

NVH... - http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-g...l#post13080789

 

Very interesting discussion on that bottom link about shifter cables! I currently have a DM 997 flywheel in my car, unsure of clutch disk. I will likely window weld my trans mount this summer and do semisolid engine mounts. If NVH from the trans mount is too high I'll buy the 997, I figure it's a free mod though I know several have said it's too loud. I have a decent stereo and would like to hear it! I've got numeric cables in a box too that I'm saving since just the shifter helped a great deal. I'd like to get the counterweight off the shift arm though!

 

Did you see my video on the previous page? That's what happens when you window weld your trans mount. Let me tell you the video does the noise no justice. It's horrible. Sounds like a broken rat trap of a car that's embarrassing to drive.

It's not a free mod either. Window weld's what $15 or so, not bad. But buying a new mount is going to set you back some $200 or $300 I forget.

It's your car, however you want to do it. Just saying, be prepared for some nasty noise once the transaxle has fully warmed up.

 

Well my current mount is likely 14yo, somethings getting done either way! Is that a dmf or a lwfw? I'd expect that noise with a solid flywheel honestly.

 

Now why would anyone choose a lightweight flywheel on these cars.
Did Porsche deliver any turbocars with a lightwheigt flywheel?

I know it revs up faster when you are in neutral, but with a turboed engines with fairly heavy components and huge mid rev torque you have no use for a lightened flywheel in my opinion.

On a GT3 maybe, on a turbo/gt2 absolutely no!

If you want a solid flywheel go for a heavy solid flywheel not these lightweight 3-4kg items.

 

since i was the one to recommend the window weld i wanted to clarify a bit. on my car i have NONE of that noise at idle. the window weld is a 74 durometer rating same as the 997 unit. im not sure of the lwfw has anything to do with it and i have a much larger clutch in mine as well. possible thats a factor? (erp triple c/f disk with steel f/w basket)
i can see why you wouldnt want that racket in any car though!

heres an idle video of mine with a carbonetics triple disk clutch and window weld trans mount with t/s motor mounts
View My Video

 

Have you driven a 996TT with a LWFW? I think NOT...stop theorizing and go try one out...you won't look back.

 

My car is also quiet when first started up. I see you're on a lift in a shop there. In fact my idle chatter is completely quiet for the first few miles of driving even. It's only once the transaxles fully heats up and fluids are hot etc. Then idle has that nasty rattle sound.
I know yours is also quiet when warmed up but just pointing out the cold start quiet for others.

Honestly I can't tell any different from my prior stock setup to the LWFW. In all fairness though I purchased the car and only got about 2 or 3 months seat time before I had to put a clutch in it. Maybe if I had the car longer prior it would be more pronounced but that makes me think the difference is fairly minor if you have to be super comfortable and used to the car to notice it.

 

Realize, I have a slightly modified car...the stock system was unpredictable and likely would not be capable over time. I did most of the upgrades at about the same time. The LWFW is much more responsive...maybe its just me or my setup?

 

pwdrhound, can you run this setup with a DMFW? And if so what kind of hardware changes need to happen?

 

The 4.0 disc only works with a lwfw. For dmfw use a solid hub GT2 disc

 

So I can use the Sachs GT2 clutch kit part#K70284-02 then correct and that will hold the power of a tuned X50 no problem?

 

I'm not familiar with that kit. What is the part number of each component that makes up the kit? What is the pressure plate used? Stay away from kits that do not give you that info.

 

Well if the theory doesnt add up i dont want to spend my money on it.
I just ordered a new dual mass wheel because of this =)

Ask a reputable tuner who does not sell either types of flywheels and ask him whats the best.
We have a couple of really experienced guys here in norway and all of them told me to skip the lightweight flywheel.

A couple of years ago i was fiddeling with cosworths and those who bought lwfw for those cars regretted, on my car i added weights to increase weight from 9 to 11.5kgs.

I believe its just a hype for turboed engines to us lwfw.
Think when you rev your engine in neutral, you wont see any boost because there isnt any load, with a lightweigh flywheel you will have less load so it will take more time for the turbos too spool up.
With a heavier flywheel the engine must work more to push the pistons, therefore boost will build up sooner, and on turboed cars you want boost sooner.
On NA engines you wants revs sooner.

I really need help from the experts to explain this completely.

As mentioned i ended up with a dmfw on my car even if i could have a normal weight single mass fw made up for the same price.
There are just so many concerns with pulleys falling of, engine vibreations, drivetrain engagement and what not.

Consider lwfw only after talking to independent experts, thats my advice.