The problem is the simple fact that many vendors are selling stuff without actually knowing what works and doesn't. I would never buy any "kit" without knowing what's in it. This is a prime example of it. If you run a solid disc with a LWFW, there will be nothing to absorb/dampen the pulses of the engine and they will be transferred directly to the gearbox = wear and tear and excessive noise. Also, from a drivability standpoint, not what you want. You wanna run the 4.0GT3 disc as that is the one that does the best job absorbing the vibration. It is also stronger and much quieter than the 996GT3RS disc that everyone used to run.

Also, check your 764 disc for any run out. I've seen a couple of brand new ones recently that had visible run out, a bad batch perhaps. Just spin it up to make sure it's true. You don't want to find out after install.

One thing I would add, when you do the GT2 conversion, instead of bolting the slave to the gearbox, drill and tap the case and install studs. Makes it much easier.

This is the LWFW conversion kit with the 764PP/4.0disc

 

Thanks buddy, I appreciate all the help. I'll get the correct 4.0 disk ordered. I was tracing lines/hoses as I'm getting more familiar with this stuff and I see the clutch line, green under the car, comes to a quick connect coupler and then runs a short 1 foot or so hose to the slave. Does that 1 foot stub get swapped out with the GT2 slave? Is it different? I was searching on Pelican Parts to tell but they don't list a host for the turbo model but they do for the GT2 model.

Some of the vendor GT2 slave conversion kits I noticed include a master cylinder cap. Is that just so that it says DOT 4 on it or is it a different cap all together I need to find? Either way I'd like one, don't seem to be able to locate one. Where do you guys find these caps?

Roger that on the studs. That was my plan. Actually on my way to the hardware store to find some now. I already have M8 x 1.25 taps and matching drills. Just got to grab some studs or threaded rod to adapt accordingly.

My next mission is figuring out how to get to the PS pump... or where it is even lol. My car is up on a lift right now with a jack holding up the motor. I need to find a way to secure the motor on the transmission side so I can lower the lift and start pulling out the PS pump for those changes.

Can't thank you guys enough. This is a great learning experience and getting to know so much more about my new car

 

You can get the DOT4 cap from Porsche for a few bucks. It's the same as a brake reservoir cap I believe. The 1 foot hose to the slave gets swapped to the GT2 version. The reason the aftermarket brackets kits include the longer braided hose is because the OEM GT2 hose would not be long enough to reach the slave which is mounted on the right side of the gearbox when using the bracket instead the left as on the GT2.

The PS pump is on the back of the engine right of center. Look up the instruction for the Evoms conversion bracket and they detail the disassembly of the pump to remove the coupler and plug the output port. Finally you will need the GT2/Tip PS fluid reservoir and then remove the old hydraulic lines front the car for a factory OEM conversion.

 

regarding the line...I actually had a hydraulic shop make one for me with the fitting from the stock line, it's all stainless to my length for about 35 dollars.

 

I contacted my vendor about sending back my solid disc and he pointed out it has marcel springs in the disc and will not make any noise or chatter. Admittedly I had to google "marcel springs" as I was not familiar. Now that I see it very interesting. I do wonder how well that really works.

 

Great thread.

 

i use a strap and wrap it from one side to the other across the 2 upper studs. this will hold the back of the motor and use the motor mount bolts up front to hold the front. then you can lower it down.
removing the p/s unit is fairly straight forward. watch the petosin it will get all over everything and its corrosive to rubber. rinse the bay thougherly . there are 3 bolts under the pulley you have to remove so loosen the pulley bolts BEFORE removing the serpentine belt.

also be careful with the red plastic push locks on top of the reservoir. easy to damage and not replaceable

 

I have a 997 flywheel in my car and suspect the clutch won't take the power I have in store for it soon. Really appreciate the information concerning the factory LWFW and clutch setups, any idea what torque level that will handle? I've swapped out dual mass flywheels for solid in the past, the oscillations aren't damped afterwards but the rattle it wasn't too bad. How is it with this trans? The OEM LWFW isn't dual mass, correct?

Using studs on the slave is a very good idea and drilling the trans isn't an issue for me either. I'd rather do that and have an OEM part available in the middle of nowhere if needed. I like the BBI part and appreciate the innovation but the cost of entry is steep and I'm probably one of the only ones who's had the hose fitting from the P/S pump to slave fail leaving me stranded - on the day I bought the car! I'd love to get rid of that. I wish someone would find a way, other than a clutch stop, to adjust engagement. I've had a couple of cars with hydraulic clutches that had adjustment, it shouldn't be that hard.

P.S. Last I heard that darned DOT4 cap was back ordered That GT2 master is the same part number as a Boxster I believe, got one off of eBay cheap cheap!

 

if some one decides to do this in the factory way and wants a gt2 assist spring, i have a brand new unit i never installed. 75$ shipped. what i paid for it

 

Intense order but I believe this gets me 99% of what I need for a lwfw conversion and GT2 clutch conversion.

 

did you order new flywheel bolts? you need them they are 1 time use. also dot 4 cap didn't see that. also rear main seal. oh forgot order band aids and booze!

 

Doh I could have sworn I had flywheel bolts on there. I appreciate the look over. Dot 4 cap I couldn't find. Rear main seal and clutch fork bearings were on a previous order. Band aids and booze lol.

 

99635511901 part # for the dot 4 cap. 996/boxster

 

Found that part number a few places, should be around $5-$8 and fits Boxster too.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1485599/

 

That's an awesome list. But are you missing the pressure plate?