Looking for feedback on light weight flywheel
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From: Kansas City MO
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As for my pressure plate and disk I got this from the vendor "098 and 764". I sure hope that helps as it took multiple messages to get that. I don't think they like to say what parts are in their kit. He did say they have the dimensions of the stock clutch parts so if the flywheel fits stock it should fit what I have now.
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Thanks buddy I appreciate all the help. I found that part number cross references to a lot of models including the 2004 GT3.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...02-239-31-M894
Assuming that's correct I'll get that ordered. I just know me and performance and I think I'll be sorry if I put a dual mass back in there.
I did not order new clutch or flywheel bolts as the torque numbers on them were low and they seemed re-usable. Is that not true? They did not appear to be TTY (torque to yield) bolts that stretch.
I also didn't order the guide tube that the TB rides on as it showed no signs of wear. I did notice one of the phillips head screws holding it in looked chewed up so I'm sure it was replaced at some point. As cheap as they are though I may just replace it for good measure.
I was not aware the GT2 conversion worked properly on stock(ish) clutch setups. This makes it a lot more appealing. I'll have to see if I can cancel my order with BBi as I really did like the GT2 conversion initially but the whole pedal engagement hight issues I was reading about scared me off.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...02-239-31-M894
Assuming that's correct I'll get that ordered. I just know me and performance and I think I'll be sorry if I put a dual mass back in there.
I did not order new clutch or flywheel bolts as the torque numbers on them were low and they seemed re-usable. Is that not true? They did not appear to be TTY (torque to yield) bolts that stretch.
I also didn't order the guide tube that the TB rides on as it showed no signs of wear. I did notice one of the phillips head screws holding it in looked chewed up so I'm sure it was replaced at some point. As cheap as they are though I may just replace it for good measure.
I was not aware the GT2 conversion worked properly on stock(ish) clutch setups. This makes it a lot more appealing. I'll have to see if I can cancel my order with BBi as I really did like the GT2 conversion initially but the whole pedal engagement hight issues I was reading about scared me off.
The 764 pressure plate is the strongest plate in the Sachs Motorsport offering. Well, was actually. Sachs has a new 487 pressure plate which is bolted (instead of riveted) and holds over 1000NM. The 764 plate is rated at 890NM. The 487 PP is about $300 more expensive.
Like I said, the engagement height issue is only a problem when using triple disc or other aftermarket clutches. If you stick with Sachs parts there is no problem.
Good luck...
Last edited by pwdrhound; Jun 9, 2015 at 03:17 PM.
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The bolts and guide tube are different length when you convert to the LWFW. That's why listed the parts as they are different as what you'll be pulling off the car. It's not an option, it's required.
The 764 pressure plate is the strongest plate in the Sachs Motorsport offering. Well, was actually. Sachs has a new 487 pressure plate which is bolted (instead of riveted) and holds over 100NM. The 764 plate is rated at 890NM.
Like I said, the engagement height issue is only a problem when using triple disc or other aftermarket clutches. If you stick with Sachs parts there is no problem.
Good luck...
The 764 pressure plate is the strongest plate in the Sachs Motorsport offering. Well, was actually. Sachs has a new 487 pressure plate which is bolted (instead of riveted) and holds over 100NM. The 764 plate is rated at 890NM.
Like I said, the engagement height issue is only a problem when using triple disc or other aftermarket clutches. If you stick with Sachs parts there is no problem.
Good luck...
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Flywheel to crank bolts, clutch bolts, throw out bearing, throw out bearing guide tube are all identical part #s. You're saying it should be different though right?
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Maybe I'm not looking at this right but I opened up two browsers on two different laptops to pelicanparts.com. I navigated one to the 04 GT2 and the other to the 04 turbo so I could compare parts.
Flywheel to crank bolts, clutch bolts, throw out bearing, throw out bearing guide tube are all identical part #s. You're saying it should be different though right?
Flywheel to crank bolts, clutch bolts, throw out bearing, throw out bearing guide tube are all identical part #s. You're saying it should be different though right?
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Just to clarify so I don't mess this all up.
996 GT2 slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch fork.
997 GT2 LWFW, guide tube, clutch and flywheel bolts.
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PM sent. Do a search here on the drill/tap GT2 conversion for part numbers. Off the top of my head you'll need a GT2 master, slave, fork, hydraulic line. I would also swap out the PS reservoir to the Tip/GT2 model instead of plugging the TT one. The original ones had a TSB on them anyway so it's a good idea to change them out anyway. Remove and disassemble the PS pump and remove the interior coupler. This is important. I would also remove all the extra hydraulic lines as they are no longer needed.
Last edited by pwdrhound; Jun 9, 2015 at 03:39 PM.
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PM sent. Do a search here on the drill/tap GT2 conversion for part numbers. Off the top of my head you'll need a GT2 master, slave, fork, hydraulic line. I would also swap out the PS reservoir to the Tip/GT2 model instead of plugging the TT one. The original ones had a TSB on them anyway so it's a good idea to change them out anyway. Remove and disassemble the PS pump and remove the interior coupler. This is important. I would also remove all the extra hydraulic lines as they are no longer needed.
The PS pump is $424 so I may just remove the interior coupler for now and cap the lines and replace it later.
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one thing to consider is the alteration of the case with tap and drill method is permanent while the bbi mod is fully reversible. only an issue if future resale is a factor.. otherwise, do what you think is best. if it doesn't matter, then drill and tap, if it does? i'd go with the BBI slave delete, as it's "cleaner" and fully reversible.
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one thing to consider is the alteration of the case with tap and drill method is permanent while the bbi mod is fully reversible. only an issue if future resale is a factor.. otherwise, do what you think is best. if it doesn't matter, then drill and tap, if it does? i'd go with the BBI slave delete, as it's "cleaner" and fully reversible.
I'm the kind of person who mods cars to enjoy for myself. I couldn't be bothered not driving it much to keep miles off or not modding to much because I'm preserving for the next person or resale value. My take is I bought the car to drive and enjoy and drive and enjoy I will
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Thanks buddy but I think I'm going with the lwfw option. Building my parts list and reading the DIYs etc.
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I think the GT2 slave add to the transmission is an enhancement. Been able to reverse that doesn't bother me in the least. Now drilling a hole through the center of the dash or something would bug me lol.
I'm the kind of person who mods cars to enjoy for myself. I couldn't be bothered not driving it much to keep miles off or not modding to much because I'm preserving for the next person or resale value. My take is I bought the car to drive and enjoy and drive and enjoy I will
I'm the kind of person who mods cars to enjoy for myself. I couldn't be bothered not driving it much to keep miles off or not modding to much because I'm preserving for the next person or resale value. My take is I bought the car to drive and enjoy and drive and enjoy I will
I salute that perspective and subscribe to it myself. if no one else besides me drove my car that'd be just fine by me. "resale value"!? mad max modded with 127,800 miles? ftw and any next potential buyer LOL.
I honestly believe though that the bbi slave delete will be the better of the two choices ( tap n drill or bracketing ) and resale value or lack thereof wont be a factor. agreed
also agree with your lwfw decision. much better suited to your driving style from all I have gathered about it
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The sprung OEM 4.0GT3RS clutch disc is very quiet compared to the old style 996GT3 sprung version which was rather noisy. DO NOT us a solid clutch disc in conjunction with a LWFW. I'm not sure what disc is in a Sachs 2.5. That's just vendor jargon but doesn't tell you what you have.
clutch disk 88-1864-001-098
pressure plate 88-3082-999-764
It is unfortunately an unsprung disk. Oddly the vendor sells it as a package too with a lwfw. What happens when you run an unsprung disk with a lwfw?
Stock disk on the left and the new 1098 on the right.
