such snobbery lol its beneath you

 

Ha! That came out wrong. lol Just meant to say that guys with the assist often remove the spring. I'm actually one of the few people that never had an issue with the boosted system and never understood what "vagueness" people complained about. I found engagement very consistent. The whole system is just needlessly complex.

 

if you look at the line that attaches to the factory green line you will find a fitting unlike anything you have ever seen before. the only way i know to get around this fitting is to cut the green line behind it and flare your own fittings. i use the factory line and remove the special locking clip from the old line and install it on the new line. its tricky but its completely factory

 

The spring seems to do nothing but pull the pedal UP, increasing effort. Is the GT2 too soft without it or unable to fully return worse than the TT springless? Swapping various springs into the stock housing isn't hard, I've got some from McMaster I've yet to use. I'm following this with interest for sure, OEM LWFW sounds like an all around win to me!

 

once you build the motor your going to be in carbonetics or erp clutch territory. they both use a basket to hold the plates. senseless to buy a lwfw then abandon it

 

I didn't realize until I did my clutch swap but some PO took out the assist spring.

Granted at the time I had a clutchmasters old stage clutch that had a very small engagement window at the very top.

When I did the new gt2 set up and put in the gt2 assist spring the pedal effort felt relatively the same.

For my line, I'm pretty sure I left the fitting on the green hard line that was there and then took the turbo line to a hydraulic shop that cut the fitting off the line and then fabbed up a new ss line that retained the factory fitting.

 

These are all the parts I needed for Tap & drill GT2 clutch slave.



All the other parts in the previous list are for the clutch.

 

bro you get such a pass it isn't even funny. your contributions here are legendary. one look at your car and you dont have to say sh*t. everybody hatin or envying or some combination lol. you're aok, and i thought it was funny!

for two hours i felt small since i ( for the moment ) still have my stock clutch hah! though i CAN now start in neutral clutch OUT! awesome

 

Updating this thread for others. So based on the feed back I decided I'd give the GT3 RS light weight single mass flywheel a try. Unfortunately for me it was a bad decision.

Once the car has warmed and been driven for about 5 miles + it rattles so loud its pretty embarrassing. When in neutral and your foot is off the clutch is when it rattles. Push in the clutch and the noise goes away.

I snapped a quick cell phone video of it. Not sure what happened when I moved the phone inside the car but the noise is actually louder in the car than when standing next to the car. However it's so loud next to the car I've had people at red lights look over and ask me what's wrong with my car.

To add insult to injury I can't tell any improvement in driving the car. I don't see the response increase or any other increase that warrants this rattle. So for me I have to respond to my own original question as no I would not do this again and in fact will probably be switching back to the stock dual mass heavier flywheel.

 

Wow that is loud!
I had a 2.5 clutch kit installed about 6 months ago and needed a new flywheel.
The Indy Porsche mechanic said that he would not install a single mass flywheel due to the noise and people having driving issues when starting from a stop.
I have the oem flywheel which works fine for me.

 

Yes the noise is horrible. I will point out there are no driving issues at all. It engages smooth and feels like a stock clutch as far as drivability. Just the noise.

 

i could be wrong but thats not clutch chatter at all. thats a loose diff or trans gears clanging. you have a major issue thats not lwfw related

 

Not the clutch chattering but the gears in the transmission due to the lwfw. It only happens when fully warmed (no noise on cold start up or for the first 3 ~ 5 miles of driving) then it starts. Noise is only there in neutral with foot off the clutch pedal. If you press in the clutch pedal the noise is gone. No noise when driving.

Noise did not exist with the factory DMFW, only with the LWFW.

 

its time to pull it back out and open it up. you have something bad going on here

 

Going to try swapping in an OEM rubber transmission mount first. I filled the stock mount with urethane (window weld) to stiffen it up. That may be adding to the vibration of the lwfw and enhancing the chatter I hear from the gearbox. Maybe not. However I did notice the tire and road noise in the car is louder since doing that to the mount so its a possibility.