That's one of the tuners I chatted with today. Can you clarify how you data log and flash tunes with Mark? I wasn't sure I understood what hardware/cable setup he was referring to.

I was surprised all of the tuners I spoke to seemed to have their own software/cable setup way of doing things. Protomotive was the only one I think that used a standard Durametric cable but he licenses it to allow flashing the car instead of just data logging.

I noticed you have to pay more attention than just their tuning costs, there's also hardware/cables etc. each of them has and those can be expensive too. There's also the cost of tune revisions when you change things. When you take all that into consideration it paints a better overall picture. Honestly they're all in about a $500 ball park of each other. It seems like making a choice will be more based on who I feel most comfortable with more than anything.

One thing's clear. I need to do some research on my hardware, what injectors do I have? fuel pressure regulator etc. So a little research work on my end first.

Also everyone I spoke to said I should be seeing around 1.2 ~ 1.25 bar on my K24/18g turbos. The most I've ever seen is 1.0. This leads me to believe I possibly have a boost leak, vacuum leak or some other problem... possibly not even the turbos on the car the previous owner told me. Time to start investigating.

 

sounds like a real god idea to identify all your stuff. sounds to me with as much working knowledge you just need a local bud like steve here or one of the tuners that you can actually have look over the car with you. with hybrid turbos like that, you're right, no way 1.0 is "it". i'm at 1.3 with 16/24's!

it just sucks since you've done all this work on the v8's but i guess learning is half the fun, it's just probably more expensive and frustrating on this platform. one word of advice re the "known" tuners, if all else were equal? go with the one as you say that gives you the best "personal attention" and time re after tune support. as much as you do to your car, and will continue to do, that'll be supremely important since you'll always be tweaking it. that leaves out many guys ( although they are legendary ) and leads you possibly? toward the markski's and kevins@ umw's of the world. all these guys know their sh*t but MAKE the time to support you and work out bugs and even new files as you upgrade. not that say, todd@proto, who is hands down THA SH8T but he's out gettin world times! while the other guys are probably a text away.

just a thought. good luck, and get those snails confirmed man. again 1.0 ain't right but it could be a host of other stuff, leak etc. btw. with those turbos they would probably have addressed the greater fuel needs with injectors like you've said or at the very LEAST a 5 bar, which if I'm not mistaken those hybrids (24/18g) would be well at the 5 bars fpr's limit(?), while it still "adequately" handles my smaller 16 coldside vs the 24 hot. my point if ever there is one, is you're still dealing with some unknown parts, and thats a drawback for a guy with wrenching skills and the knowledge you already have. i'd take my car to a tuner and identify all visible stuff! good luck man, you're well on your way, and i'm getting an education just following along. cheers.

 

look for pigtails or adaptors on the injectors. thats a sign of upgraded injectors. also some use a 5 bar fpr instead of upgrading injectors a band aid effect.

tuners. in the world of the factory dme i haven't seen any one tuner that stands out. they all overcharge for whats provided and its up to you to do most of the work to get them the data they want. my engine equipment was ungodly expensive but my tuner is the best there is. always available and he runs the car and tunes in real time just some more "data" for you

 

if i stayed exactly where I'm at though the 5bars been's a helluva bandaid over a 3.8 lol. but I'm sure you're right.

 

When I looked at cost of tunes and retunes and considered the level of tuning I've done on other cars I've owned and for others my choice was clear - standalone. The data alone as well as the added safety make it a good choice for me. That said I still have to have a basic tune on the DME for emissions Not cheap but for me worth it and I look forward to running better than W/G boost on my turbos!

 

Not everyone needs a standalone or five files. Different strokes for different folks.

Guy needs to fully ascertain what he is running before any tuner can even give a setup specific file. This from my obvious file. Mea culpa.

 

Well I got my replacement transmission mount in. A bone stock unit.




Not the best shot but you can see the stock mount without any window weld has a lot of air space and wiggle room for vibration.




I got this on a couple days ago and only had a chance for one test drive. It was 11:30pm at night and it was a cool 70F out so that may have made the difference. However the difference was HUGE.

The transmission was substantially quieter. It still had a vibration noise once warmed but nothing like I've been experiencing. Again the weather may have been the difference because the problem definitly only arrises when everything is very hot.

Today will be a great test as it's going to be a hot one in the mid 90s and tons of humidity. Huge car meet http://www.streetcar-takeover.com/ today and this weekend so will be out with friends cruising around. Will report back on how it does in some real heat.

 

Told ya... Glad it worked out. You won't see a difference in the mounts other than the reduction in noise..

 

I'm never above learning new things
Fingers crossed for warm weather cruising today.

Also working on getting a tune so that should help by bumping the RPMs up at idle too.

 

call sam at by design and get a cobb access port tune

 

Already purchased a tune from markskituning.com. Have the flash unit, durametric cable etc. and been playing around. Found my check valve #16 is shot and leaking boost. Ordered a replacement. Once installed I'll continue finding/fixing boost leaks then start tuning.

 

I like the way you stick with it lol, also agree get things right then fine tune.

 

If at first you fail keep trying I don't give up to easily.

Well it's about a 100 million degrees fahrenheit out today and I've been running around quite a bit in the 911. I think I can conclude without a doubt going back to the stock mount with no window weld has made a huge difference in the noise even when the car is completely hot. Big smiles here lol

 

Surprised that the addition of the stiffener made that much difference, glad it was a straightforward fix!

 

Thats n1 to hear So now it' not only a huge difference, also it's comfortable and tolerable? In the process to do the same process on mine and was still confused because of the strange noies. I have Torque Solution Trans Mounts for the Street installed, hope it will work, otherwise I have to upgrade also to the 997 Trans Mount. I think with another tune it will also getting a Little bit more comfortable and enjoyable