Looking for feedback on light weight flywheel
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thats what i was saying back then. the 997 mount IS the replacement mount. but maybe malcolm got a really old yet still "new old stock" if he in fact got a 996 part number for his replacement mount.
by now i'd guess there are NONE left with the 996 part number.
all i know is that my cars left to right lateral is slot car tight even with just semi's and the oem 997 t-mount.
it's enough for me, i suppose is my my point! alignment/ /ride height/GOOD MM's and as many new rubber bits where rubber already exists is the ticket. i have found.
cheers pwdr! you're still the penultimate guru of us "dual duty" car guys here lol
I call bogus on the tune. Once the car is fully warmed and idling you can bring the RPMs up just by lightly pressing the gas pedal and the rattle is still there. Have to get really high for it to go away, over 1000 rpms. I've also spoken to my tuner about this and he said there's nothing he can do for it.
It's more than idle RPM gear box clatter noise. There's also low load driving conditions. For example at low RPMs in neighbor hood streets you get a vibration sound and need to down shift. Or I really notice it leaving my house driving in the neighbor hood in 2nd gear where I slow down pretty slow around corners by houses and then as I lightly press on the gas pedal there's a pretty nasty vibration sound.
It actually sounds exactly like the noise you get from an unsprung clutch when you almost lug the engine at lower RPMs. A resonating type sound that's pretty loud. I used to get that on my Mustang when I ran a specific aftermarket unsprung clutch.
It's more than idle RPM gear box clatter noise. There's also low load driving conditions. For example at low RPMs in neighbor hood streets you get a vibration sound and need to down shift. Or I really notice it leaving my house driving in the neighbor hood in 2nd gear where I slow down pretty slow around corners by houses and then as I lightly press on the gas pedal there's a pretty nasty vibration sound.
It actually sounds exactly like the noise you get from an unsprung clutch when you almost lug the engine at lower RPMs. A resonating type sound that's pretty loud. I used to get that on my Mustang when I ran a specific aftermarket unsprung clutch.
I also have a very stiff aftermarket trans mount. Nothing can make these gearboxes louder than a trans mount- its insane!
http://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
Last edited by TabooPc; Apr 12, 2016 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Added link.
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How loud is that urethane mount? Anything very stiff will bring out ALL the noises in the trans for sure! I'm going to try window weld on my stock one if its not torn, not sure if I'd want a very stiff trans mount 
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From: Kansas City MO
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If you converted from the dual mass flywheel to a single mass I highly recommend you don't do that. I did the window weld on mine and the transmission noise was horrendous. I had to find another used stock 996 mount and swap it in.
However it improves the smoothness of shifts while cornering. Is it worth it? Eh... No. But its already in so I'm not complaining. If I could snap my fingers and have a 997 trans mount in there, I probably would.
My car is becoming increasingly more racey, so I don't mind it.
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I recently had my clutch setup re-done, because the old one had a very odd pedal feeling that I didnt feel comfortable with. Previously I had a LWFW and Sachs setup, installed by the previous owner(s), and this time around I took no chances. I went with PWDRHND's advice and got his recommended setup, including all new fasteners and basically anything that would be down there.
That being said I personally love the LWFW, but I am used to the feel of them, having them in other vehicles and with my background in circuit driving. Not good at all for drag racing or for ultimate comfort, but my logic is that since I already have the GT2 slave conversion, this clutch will never be comfortable. It's precise, heavy, but tolerable. And the car itself isn't great at drag racing so it was a no-brainer to keep it.
Mine chatters the most when the engine is fully warm and it's idling low. With the A/C on, it chatters quite a bit. As others say it goes away if you press on the clutch pedal, or if the revs come up by 100-200 RPM. I may raise my idle RPM in my tuning software this summer if it starts to bother me. It's also important to mention that the PWDRHND clutch setup uses a newer, GT3 RS 4.0 disc which supposedly has springs that make it quieter. Mine for example sounds nothing like the video posted above.
Also, I get the same marbles-in-a-tin-can sound if I lug the engine down under 2000 RPM while applying throttle in gear, the tech who installed my clutch was actually really worried I had a major issue when he experienced it on his test drive.
If you have a stock TT and it's soft and plush and you love how easy it is to drive, and how quiet it is, I can tell you with confidence NOT to do:
GT2 slave
LWFW
Trans mount
997 SSK
However, if you are fed up with how imprecise and vague the clutch and shifting feel is, perform the above mods. And I recommend the clutch setup that PWDRHND recommends, I'll share the spreadsheet I made to order the parts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
That being said I personally love the LWFW, but I am used to the feel of them, having them in other vehicles and with my background in circuit driving. Not good at all for drag racing or for ultimate comfort, but my logic is that since I already have the GT2 slave conversion, this clutch will never be comfortable. It's precise, heavy, but tolerable. And the car itself isn't great at drag racing so it was a no-brainer to keep it.
Mine chatters the most when the engine is fully warm and it's idling low. With the A/C on, it chatters quite a bit. As others say it goes away if you press on the clutch pedal, or if the revs come up by 100-200 RPM. I may raise my idle RPM in my tuning software this summer if it starts to bother me. It's also important to mention that the PWDRHND clutch setup uses a newer, GT3 RS 4.0 disc which supposedly has springs that make it quieter. Mine for example sounds nothing like the video posted above.
Also, I get the same marbles-in-a-tin-can sound if I lug the engine down under 2000 RPM while applying throttle in gear, the tech who installed my clutch was actually really worried I had a major issue when he experienced it on his test drive.
If you have a stock TT and it's soft and plush and you love how easy it is to drive, and how quiet it is, I can tell you with confidence NOT to do:
GT2 slave
LWFW
Trans mount
997 SSK
However, if you are fed up with how imprecise and vague the clutch and shifting feel is, perform the above mods. And I recommend the clutch setup that PWDRHND recommends, I'll share the spreadsheet I made to order the parts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Ben you're combining two issues into one. People can do the GT2 slave conversion to get a nice feeling clutch pedal but keep the DMFW for a smooth quiet ride at low rpms and a quiet idle.
Also the video above was excessively loud due to window weld in the motor mount. A stock 996 mount made the noise much lower.
Overall if I had to do it again I'd probably pick up a factory DMFW and do the GT2 slave conversion only.
Also the video above was excessively loud due to window weld in the motor mount. A stock 996 mount made the noise much lower.
Overall if I had to do it again I'd probably pick up a factory DMFW and do the GT2 slave conversion only.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 110
From: OKC, OK
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Ben you're combining two issues into one. People can do the GT2 slave conversion to get a nice feeling clutch pedal but keep the DMFW for a smooth quiet ride at low rpms and a quiet idle.
Also the video above was excessively loud due to window weld in the motor mount. A stock 996 mount made the noise much lower.
Overall if I had to do it again I'd probably pick up a factory DMFW and do the GT2 slave conversion only.
Also the video above was excessively loud due to window weld in the motor mount. A stock 996 mount made the noise much lower.
Overall if I had to do it again I'd probably pick up a factory DMFW and do the GT2 slave conversion only.
That is correct. I can definitely see why someone would want to retain the DMFW and use an unsprung disc, it would be easier on takeoffs and less noise. It just comes down to driver preference and how each of us uses the car, I guess.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
From: toronto
Rep Power: 12
benw, my experience and sentiment as well!
earl
earl
I recently had my clutch setup re-done, because the old one had a very odd pedal feeling that I didnt feel comfortable with. Previously I had a LWFW and Sachs setup, installed by the previous owner(s), and this time around I took no chances. I went with PWDRHND's advice and got his recommended setup, including all new fasteners and basically anything that would be down there.
That being said I personally love the LWFW, but I am used to the feel of them, having them in other vehicles and with my background in circuit driving. Not good at all for drag racing or for ultimate comfort, but my logic is that since I already have the GT2 slave conversion, this clutch will never be comfortable. It's precise, heavy, but tolerable. And the car itself isn't great at drag racing so it was a no-brainer to keep it.
Mine chatters the most when the engine is fully warm and it's idling low. With the A/C on, it chatters quite a bit. As others say it goes away if you press on the clutch pedal, or if the revs come up by 100-200 RPM. I may raise my idle RPM in my tuning software this summer if it starts to bother me. It's also important to mention that the PWDRHND clutch setup uses a newer, GT3 RS 4.0 disc which supposedly has springs that make it quieter. Mine for example sounds nothing like the video posted above.
Also, I get the same marbles-in-a-tin-can sound if I lug the engine down under 2000 RPM while applying throttle in gear, the tech who installed my clutch was actually really worried I had a major issue when he experienced it on his test drive.
If you have a stock TT and it's soft and plush and you love how easy it is to drive, and how quiet it is, I can tell you with confidence NOT to do:
GT2 slave
LWFW
Trans mount
997 SSK
However, if you are fed up with how imprecise and vague the clutch and shifting feel is, perform the above mods. And I recommend the clutch setup that PWDRHND recommends, I'll share the spreadsheet I made to order the parts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
That being said I personally love the LWFW, but I am used to the feel of them, having them in other vehicles and with my background in circuit driving. Not good at all for drag racing or for ultimate comfort, but my logic is that since I already have the GT2 slave conversion, this clutch will never be comfortable. It's precise, heavy, but tolerable. And the car itself isn't great at drag racing so it was a no-brainer to keep it.
Mine chatters the most when the engine is fully warm and it's idling low. With the A/C on, it chatters quite a bit. As others say it goes away if you press on the clutch pedal, or if the revs come up by 100-200 RPM. I may raise my idle RPM in my tuning software this summer if it starts to bother me. It's also important to mention that the PWDRHND clutch setup uses a newer, GT3 RS 4.0 disc which supposedly has springs that make it quieter. Mine for example sounds nothing like the video posted above.
Also, I get the same marbles-in-a-tin-can sound if I lug the engine down under 2000 RPM while applying throttle in gear, the tech who installed my clutch was actually really worried I had a major issue when he experienced it on his test drive.
If you have a stock TT and it's soft and plush and you love how easy it is to drive, and how quiet it is, I can tell you with confidence NOT to do:
GT2 slave
LWFW
Trans mount
997 SSK
However, if you are fed up with how imprecise and vague the clutch and shifting feel is, perform the above mods. And I recommend the clutch setup that PWDRHND recommends, I'll share the spreadsheet I made to order the parts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
From: toronto
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+1.. Its definitely the low-rpm lugging noise. My car makes the same exact noise and I have the same setup. Aasco lwfw Sachs PP and 4.0 Disk.
I also have a very stiff aftermarket trans mount. Nothing can make these gearboxes louder than a trans mount- its insane!
http://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
I also have a very stiff aftermarket trans mount. Nothing can make these gearboxes louder than a trans mount- its insane!
http://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
Also, I am having a hard time determining where the sound is coming from, it seems to be from the area between the parking brake and shifter.
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Turning the A/C off decreases the rattle noticeably. My car does not have A/C. Having a LWFW tune raises the idle RPM slightly thus reducing the idle chatter further. It also drastically improves driveability. I have a lwfw specific tune. My car does not have any noticeable rattle. I've driven the same car with UMWs dmfw and lwfw tune and it's a huge difference. If you simply swapped in a lwfw without a new tune, you are missing out. Talk to your tuner. If he doesn't offer it, he has a thing or two to learn. Get a new tuner that does. Trust me. Stay away from the semi solid transmission mounts. I've said it a million times. Can't tell you how many people have done it only to remove it and tell me "yeah, you were right". Full on race car where you wear ear plugs, yes, street car, hell no. Stock 997 mount is all you need. It's the same mount Porsche puts in the 997GT3RS 4.0 and the 997 GT2RS. Put in semi solid or solid engine mounts instead. That tightens up everything with hardly any added NVH. Nuff said...
Last edited by pwdrhound; Apr 13, 2016 at 03:29 PM.
