Hi, ya'all this is my first time posting here. Great forum and I have learned lots just lurking here.
I purchased a 2005 Turbo S a year ago with 50,000 miles. I have no records of the spark plugs or coil packs having been changed in the cars life time, however it could have been done at some point.


The car runs great and idles perfectly. I am reluctant to go through the procedure of replacing these parts if it is not necessary.


I was thinking that maybe one of the plug/coils could be removed W/O taking the bumper and IC's off and checking the plug and coil vintage and condition?


Overall thoughts?


J

 

I would change along with anything else that comes under normal maintenance if I didn't show records for work being done= not that expensive and a good piece of mind.

 

in my book, ill drive it, until it starts misfiring or change it every 2 years. depends how you push the car.

 

Thanks for the response so far. As to my question regarding access to maybe a single coil pack/plug. Based on experience, would there be one I could access easily W/O removing too much stuff? This could possibly help me determine if the coil packs/plugs had been replaced over last the last 50,000 miles?

 

I just finished this R&R. All the plugs/coils are equally accessible (or inaccessible!). I would classify my skill level as intermediate and for me I can't see how any of the plugs could be removed without pulling the bumper/intercoolers.

 

removing just one, won't help. you need to inspect all the coils, and plugs. Hard to say - Mines gave out the next day hahah. so I replaced them right away

you need to take off the rear bumper, take intercoolers off , shield, and easy access, its super easy. just bit time consuming. if you willing to keep the car for a very long time, i guess just go ahead and replace coils and sparkplugs and keep them as spare--- oem coils love to crack over time.

 

Part of what drives a plug change is time. Even if you manage to get one plug out and decide it looks ok that doesn't tell you anything about the other plugs and if the plug/head threads may be suffering from severe corrosion that could if you let the plugs go end up damaging a very expensive head when the plugs are removed much later.

Unless you have a record of the plugs being changed my advice is to change them. At this time you or the tech can decide if the coils look in need of replacing. If you find any that show cracks or other signs of aging/weathering my advice would be to replace them all.

 

Got it folks. I will plan on replacing plugs/coils next time it gets cool down here in Charleston SC. Better to be safe. I appreciate the advice. While I am in there I will do a little cleaning if required. I love this car!


J

 

It would be a great idea to go ahead with the 60k service and establish an excellent baseline for yourself. That's what I would do just for the peace of mind.

 

I just completed this job yesterday and it's very straight forward. There are lots of steps but none of them are complicated at all. Don't be intimidated by the bumper removal, that's probably the easiest part.

Feel free to ask me any questions about the job.

Rich

 

I'm sure it's pretty straight forward, but is there by chance a "how to" thread.

 

Search the forum...here's one from Vivid Racing our sponsor...


https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...diy-guide.html

Also one on RennTech.org

There's another one I saw with rear lights and bumper removal slides...can't seen to find it now

It took me less than 6 hours to do it the first time...I can do it in 3.5 hours the next time. Not hard to do

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...diy-guide.html

As BauerR mentioned, there are a lot of steps and initially (at least to me) it looked intimidating.
Now I have done it once, I'll have no qualms about tackling it again in the future.

A couple of pieces of advice:
1. I pulled off all the boost hoses without first understanding how the clips go back on to secure them. I had 3 of 4 clips incorrectly installed after my first attempt and had to pull the bumper and left intercooler a second time to fix them.
2. Note which screw goes where. There are a few very similar ones that hold the taillights, bumper, inner fender liners and intercoolers. A little time as you are disassembling will really help come reassembly time.


Good Luck!

 

RennTech.org link:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...ions-pictures/

also attached Porsche's service intervals...basically, plugs every 4 years or 40K on 2005 Turbos.

Also, checklist for Major interval which really is when you do plugs and coils.

Good Luck, it's not hard

 

The following procedure may help with the pictures.
Replacing plugs996TT

Tools
#25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers, 10mm, 13mm sockets, 5/8 spark plug socket, 5or 6mm hex socket
3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint
medium phillips screwdriver
torque wrench

Preparation

1)Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels.
2)Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws.
3)Remove bumperettes: remove access plug, loosen size 40 torx from below 2turns, pivots upward
4)Remove rear only wheel well liner: several torx and 2 plastic 10mm nuts (easyto strip when reinstalling)
5)Remove rear bumper cover: 4 phillips on top, 2 phillips on bottom, 4 torx onbottom, 2 torx in the wheel well. Its easy to scratch when removed. Slide offwith a helper so you don't scratch the paint. Unplug the wires.
6)Remove center rear heat shield: 3 10mm bolts, 2 screws. Using compressed air,if available, thoroughly blow all the dirt and debris off the intercoolers,engine, wheel well, brakes, etc.

Remove the intercooler with brackets

7)Disconnect the big hoses where they plug into the intercooler. Pull/pry witha screwdriver, the center of the hose retaining wire clips back far enough torelease the hoses. Pull/wiggle the hoses out of the intercooler. It may beeasier to remove the upper 2 hoses completely. Mark the inner and outer ends ofthe upper hoses or note where the arrows are to aid reassembly. Inspect thehose O-rings. The manual says to replace the O rings, but I don't know ifthat's really necessary.
8)On each side remove 5 13mm nuts/bolts holding on the intercooler brackets.Remove bottom 2 sheetmetal nuts attaching the bottom of the side heat shields.Pull the heat shield off the studs. Slide the intercooler assembly forwardabout an inch then remove it.
9)Bend the shields upward. Leave top heatshield attachment nuts on.
YOU CAN NOW SEE THE TOP OF THE HEADS!

Remove the coils:

10)Remove the heat shield attached to the head. Unclip the O2 sensor wires fromit and let the shield slide down out of the way.
11)Driver side remove the waste gate vac hose abd the pressure sensor(?) hosenext to it.
12)Remove all the coil retaining allen head bolts.
13)Unclip all 6 coil wires. (I couldn't get the coils back on with the wiresattached)
14)Remove the coils, it may be a little difficult to manuver them out.
15)Using long extensions remove the spark plugs.

Visually inspect the new plugs prior to installation. Gap is about .8mm(.032"), NOT 1.6 mm as the shop manual states. I wouldn't try to adjustthem if the gap looks reasonably close. Mine were about .025 -.032". I hada new damaged plug that had the side electrode bent.
Visually inspect the coils. Pull off the rubber boots and look for any cracksor carbon tracking. Try to keep the rubber boots very clean to avoid carbontracking. Put a samll amount of anti-sieze on the inner 1/2 of the spark plugthreads. You don't want any grease or fingerprints on the ceramic, rubberboots, or in the spark plug recess in the head.

1)Install the plugs. They should easily screw in by hand. Torque to 22 ft/lb.
2)Put the coils in place. Attach the coil wires prior to installing the coilbolts. Make sure the wires 'click' into the coils before you pull the littlerubber boots down. Space is limited. Install the coil bolts with a SMALL amountof anti-sieze. Torque to 7 ft.lbs.
3)Install the heat shield to the head with a little anti-sieze. Torque to 7ft.lbs. You may need to use a u-jount socket on 1 of the bolts. Clip the O2sensor wires and vac hoses back on to the heat shields. Reinstall the 2 vachoses on the driver side. Check for any loose/disconnected wires or vacuumhoses.
4)Bend the side heat shields back down.

Intercooler install

5)Check that the intercooler hose retaining wire clips are fully in position atthe bottom of their grooves. Blow out the intercooler inside and out withcompressed air. Make sure the intercooler hose inlet and outlet sealingsurfaces are clean and smooth.
6)Carefully reposition the intercooler assembly on the car. Be careful not toscratch the paint. Push it rearward and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 17ft.lb. Tighten the side heat shield sheet metal nuts. Install the intercoolerhoses. The hose ends should audibly click into place.
7)Reinstall the center rear heat shield.
8)With a helper reinstall the bumper cover. Remember to reconnect the wire.Install the screws loosely. Before you tighten it down position the wheel wellliner and loosely install it's screws. Push the bumper cover and wheel wellliner into position and tighten. (It was difficult to get the wheel well linerinto position with the bumper cover fully tightened.) Do not overtighten theplastic nuts and strip the threads.
9)Reinstall the bumperettes. Engauge the top groove and pivot them down,retighten the bolt.
10)Reinstall the taillight assemblys.