New clutch
#31
10-09-2015, 05:40 PM
Okey, thank you all so far for help.
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
#32
10-09-2015, 10:18 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,075
Rep Power: 108 
#33
10-10-2015, 12:06 AM
Hello peeps
I'm in need of a new clutch for my tt and I was wondering what clutch to buy and where to buy it.
I'm currently in a tuned car so I'm looking for something stronger then OEM.
I want the car do be drivable in dailylife, so no on/off clutch
In the pricerange I'm looking for under 2000$?
FVD has dealer in Norway, prices outside Norway are most likely +27% VAT
I got a price from the local Porsche workshop, and they wanted 2500$ to change it. That NOT including parts.
I'm in need of a new clutch for my tt and I was wondering what clutch to buy and where to buy it.
I'm currently in a tuned car so I'm looking for something stronger then OEM.
I want the car do be drivable in dailylife, so no on/off clutch
In the pricerange I'm looking for under 2000$?
FVD has dealer in Norway, prices outside Norway are most likely +27% VAT
I got a price from the local Porsche workshop, and they wanted 2500$ to change it. That NOT including parts.
Have you checked with Sambo? He would likely be able to steer you in the right direction and give you a very fair price on a new setup as well. Look him up by searching By Design in the vendor directory.
#34
10-10-2015, 03:04 AM
You can get everything for around $2K if you shop around. I paid $1900 for everything you see here: 764PP, 997GT3RS 4.0 disc, 964RS FW, and all the rest of the misc. stuff..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/iUWZtB]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/iUWZtB]
#35
10-10-2015, 06:15 AM
The OEM GT2 disc is the same exact organic friction material as the stock 996TT disc, except that the TT disc has a sprung hub while the GT2 is solid. The OEM pressure plate is the same for both TT/GT2. As such, the OEM GT2 clutch package will hold the same amount of torque as the stock TT clutch and should not be considered an upgrade.
If you want an upgrade, get the Sachs 764 Motorsport pressure plate with a clutch disc appropriate to the flywheel you're using. If you're running a LWFW, get the OEM GT3RS 4.0 disc. I have this and it holds 670 ft.lbs of torque at the wheels (verified on a Dynojet). Torque, not HP is what you need to be concerned with.
If you want an upgrade, get the Sachs 764 Motorsport pressure plate with a clutch disc appropriate to the flywheel you're using. If you're running a LWFW, get the OEM GT3RS 4.0 disc. I have this and it holds 670 ft.lbs of torque at the wheels (verified on a Dynojet). Torque, not HP is what you need to be concerned with.
#36
10-10-2015, 02:16 PM
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...aka-764-a.html
this member is top shelf. buy with confidence. heres your clutch for under 1000$
this member is top shelf. buy with confidence. heres your clutch for under 1000$
#37
10-10-2015, 03:23 PM
with all due respect to both you as well as the long time member here listing the setup ( and it is a great price and probably and could well last for years without issue.. ). but.. why buy a set of clutch parts that begins with "slipping, took it out right away; only 2 k miles". i mean, that defies logic to me.
#38
10-10-2015, 04:11 PM
with all due respect to both you as well as the long time member here listing the setup ( and it is a great price and probably and could well last for years without issue.. ). but.. why buy a set of clutch parts that begins with "slipping, took it out right away; only 2 k miles". i mean, that defies logic to me.
#39
10-10-2015, 04:27 PM
mark makes big power. he tried it and it didn't work for him. so everything minus the slipped disc and he will source a new disc and essentially have a new 764 setup for under 1000$. the o/p has a tight budget and modest power goals so it would be a win win for him. thats why i referred the post. mark wont sell junk and it is like him to post upfront the issue and a remedy. thats why
fully agree, and I'm sure you're right. again his rep is without question ( feel like I'm talkin to ya twice here ha ) but unless you're a guy that opens up or drops his g'box often, drops the motor and/or is able to replace parts at will? used clutch parts are not a good idea on any street driven car. if you replace the one worn disc? sure, i can see it. but in the overall scheme of things a new 2.5 kit is not gonna be over 2k ever and you get that piece of mind of bedding it in yourself. which i wouldn't trade for nothin.
cheers.
#40
10-11-2015, 06:55 AM
Can you PM me where you got it all for $1900? Last price I saw was $2500.
#41
10-11-2015, 07:33 AM
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo...-595-00-a.html
Last edited by pwdrhound; 10-11-2015 at 10:19 AM.
#42
10-11-2015, 10:03 AM
My car originally came with the Motorsport 752PP and a GT2 clutch disc along with the OEM DMFW and the assist accumulator. This was the standard clutch installed by RUF in all the 550 Rturbos. The RUF motor had K24hybrids, RUF intake manifold / turbo intake hoses, and a RUF exhaust. Power and torque were likely right at 500-520 at the wheels but I never dynoed it. Clutch was flawless and never slipped. When I removed it, the GT2 clutch disc actually measured at or better than NEW at all the factory measuring points. Both the pressure plate and DMFW still have the honing marks on the friction surfaces. There was absolutely zero measurable wear after 20K miles many of which were on a road course. I never launched the car and always rev match.
With that said, the 764 plate has greater clamping force than the 752 and thus gives you more clamping margins. There is really no reason to buy the 752 as it's likely not much cheaper than the 764. If you are retaining the DMFW, install the 764 with the GT2 disc and you can retain the stock accumulator. For a street car, I would do that and call it a day.
If you are installing a 964 LWFW, install the 997GT3RS 4.0 disc. That is what I run and I consider it clutch nirvana when paired with the GT2 non assist clutch set up. In other words, I would recommend ditching the troublesome accumulator. You will reduce complexity, drop a little weight, and have a clutch with better feel. The effort is more but a complete non event after driving the car for 5 minutes. Assuming you don't have a muscular disability or an injury that prevents you from exerting a little more pressure with your foot, you won't notice it. Do this when doing the clutch as the gearbox will be out and it's only a couple of hours of labor to drill and tap the housing to do this. All factory parts are used. You are basically doing what Porsche did not do on the TT application. All the bosses are there as the casting is the same on the TT and GT2. Hope that helps.
With that said, the 764 plate has greater clamping force than the 752 and thus gives you more clamping margins. There is really no reason to buy the 752 as it's likely not much cheaper than the 764. If you are retaining the DMFW, install the 764 with the GT2 disc and you can retain the stock accumulator. For a street car, I would do that and call it a day.
If you are installing a 964 LWFW, install the 997GT3RS 4.0 disc. That is what I run and I consider it clutch nirvana when paired with the GT2 non assist clutch set up. In other words, I would recommend ditching the troublesome accumulator. You will reduce complexity, drop a little weight, and have a clutch with better feel. The effort is more but a complete non event after driving the car for 5 minutes. Assuming you don't have a muscular disability or an injury that prevents you from exerting a little more pressure with your foot, you won't notice it. Do this when doing the clutch as the gearbox will be out and it's only a couple of hours of labor to drill and tap the housing to do this. All factory parts are used. You are basically doing what Porsche did not do on the TT application. All the bosses are there as the casting is the same on the TT and GT2. Hope that helps.
I am in search of a clutch as well. currently running stage 3 clutch. I have removed the accumulator, but find it 500 times harder. Does drilling and tapping the housing make the clutch softer?
#44
10-11-2015, 10:27 AM
Hard to say not knowing what clutch components you have. Sound like you are using the bracket method which is inferior to using the factory set up. When you drill and tap the gearbox and use OEM parts, you have the exact same set up as Porsche uses on the GT2/3 cars. The GT2 pedal effort is higher than the TT. The 764 PP will again make the pedal effort higher than a stock GT2 due to the stiffer Motorsport pressure plate. It's still not an issue unless you have some type of a leg injury or disability that prevents you from exerting some added pressure with your foot.
#45
10-11-2015, 12:26 PM
Hard to say not knowing what clutch components you have. Sound like you are using the bracket method which is inferior to using the factory set up. When you drill and tap the gearbox and use OEM parts, you have the exact same set up as Porsche uses on the GT2/3 cars. The GT2 pedal effort is higher than the TT. The 764 PP will again make the pedal effort higher than a stock GT2 due to the stiffer Motorsport pressure plate. It's still not an issue unless you have some type of a leg injury or disability that prevents you from exerting some added pressure with your foot.
Im currently using the stage 3 clutch that came with the evoms gt700 kit. I believe its still the oem flywheel. Ive driven a GT2, and the clutch is no where near as stiff as mine. Some one has told me that drilling and tapping the gearbox will resolve this. Just wanted to confirm before moving forward.
Cheers
Howie