Another catastrophic cooling system failure
Originally Posted by jpflip
May I suggest something, If you go the welding route try to do a good leak check while the engine is out. It is not too difficult to fabricate caps and pressurized the coolant system. I had to go back to the welder three times because of the difficulty of welding the casting with so much impurities.... I started a thread in 2012 about my first engine removal and coolant pipes welding and on page 7 you will see how I did the pressure test on the ground.....Hope this help!
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ts-needed.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ts-needed.html
yeah, car needs to be way higher. i wonder how high. I've seen some kind of jack/flatbed - where you can just rest the engine on and lower it down, i cant remember where ive seen it, I dont think id trust, 2 floor jack- it is heavy.
https://t.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs....google.com%2F
That one supports 1k lbs, another supports 500lbs. Do read the reviews as there are good tips on tweaking them. I need one myself!
Originally Posted by BLKMGK
Harbor Freight hydraulic table.
https://t.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs....google.com%2F
That one supports 1k lbs, another supports 500lbs. Do read the reviews as there are good tips on tweaking them. I need one myself!
https://t.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs....google.com%2F
That one supports 1k lbs, another supports 500lbs. Do read the reviews as there are good tips on tweaking them. I need one myself!
To use it with just hydraulic jacks and jackstands is next to impossible. You'd need to have the bumper support something like 40" from the floor. The motor itself is about 29" tall. Most people use some type of cradle to support the engine, so you'd have to add the thickness of the cradle to that too.
Last edited by Stebo; Jun 9, 2017 at 12:48 PM.
Aight y'all. I just found my problem and don't even have the motor out yet.
Split hose. Rear passenger side just ahead of the motor mount. You can see the yellow string guts of the hose blown out in the pic. It's a longitudinal tear. I'll get better pics when the engine comes out and I pull the hose off.
At least this reopens the possibility of pinning my fittings... not sure which way I'm going to go now. ATM I'm probably still leaning towards having BBi weld them.
Also, while working on my car I heard a rustle behind me. There was a big crab in my driveway trying to hide under my truck- so being the native Floridian that I am, I caught him in a Lowe's bucket. Haha. Enjoy!
Split hose. Rear passenger side just ahead of the motor mount. You can see the yellow string guts of the hose blown out in the pic. It's a longitudinal tear. I'll get better pics when the engine comes out and I pull the hose off.
At least this reopens the possibility of pinning my fittings... not sure which way I'm going to go now. ATM I'm probably still leaning towards having BBi weld them.
Also, while working on my car I heard a rustle behind me. There was a big crab in my driveway trying to hide under my truck- so being the native Floridian that I am, I caught him in a Lowe's bucket. Haha. Enjoy!
The 1000# lift tables are about 11" tall in the fully down position. They work best if you have a lift; max jacks, etc.
To use it with just hydraulic jacks and jackstands is next to impossible. You'd need to have the bumper support something like 40" from the floor. The motor itself is about 29" tall. Most people use some type of cradle to support the engine, so you'd have to add the thickness of the cradle to that too.
To use it with just hydraulic jacks and jackstands is next to impossible. You'd need to have the bumper support something like 40" from the floor. The motor itself is about 29" tall. Most people use some type of cradle to support the engine, so you'd have to add the thickness of the cradle to that too.




