Looking for advice: 1000WHP GT2 Build
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for some insight from people with experience having their engines built. My car currently makes a good amount of power, id say 750-800. I'm now looking for that 1000whp mark, and so the car is going in for an engine and trans build, as well as some supporting mods. I have a few questions on what direction to go with the build. I want to make the most power for the money (Most hp per dollar). I'm not sure if I want keep my current fuel of pump + meth, or do an ethanol conversion... So far I'm leaning to e85.
Current Modifications:
Build Details:
My main questions:
1. Is going 3.8L worth it? More so if I plan on doing a bigger turbo down the road?
2. Should I do the 12mm head studs, or are the aftermarket 10mm versions plenty?
3. Is it worth porting the heads, and upgrading the valve springs?
4. The stock gearbox seems to be able to take a lot, is it worth upgrading to some stronger components, and if so, what are those upgrades?
Any advice is welcome and MUCH appreciated!!!
Thank you
I'm looking for some insight from people with experience having their engines built. My car currently makes a good amount of power, id say 750-800. I'm now looking for that 1000whp mark, and so the car is going in for an engine and trans build, as well as some supporting mods. I have a few questions on what direction to go with the build. I want to make the most power for the money (Most hp per dollar). I'm not sure if I want keep my current fuel of pump + meth, or do an ethanol conversion... So far I'm leaning to e85.
Current Modifications:
- Fuel:
- Walbro 450 pump
- 80lb injectors
- stock 3.8bar fpr
- 100% Meth injection
- Induction:
- Tial GT3073 turbo
- fenderwell intakes
- gt2rs intercooler
- 3" Ypipe
- GT3 Throttle body
- Boost control/Tune:
- Protomotive Tune
- Plex PBC Pro Boost Controller
Build Details:
- Fuel:
- Protomotive Dual Walbro 450 w/ hobbs switch
- Bosch 1680CC Injectors, lines
- Clutch:
- Protomotive Dual Disk Clutch
- Engine:
- Capricorn 103.6mm Piston and Cylinder Kit
- Pauter Machine IMS Gear Set
- Protomotive Connecting Rods
- 12mm head studs
- Port Cylinder Heads
- Valve Guide Technovance (not sure what this is)
- Upgraded Valve Spring Kit
- Machine work: Machine for 12mm studs, Shuffle Pin Cases, Boat Tail Main Journals
- Trans:
- CMS Transmission Side Cover
- Rebuild OR Upgrade
My main questions:
1. Is going 3.8L worth it? More so if I plan on doing a bigger turbo down the road?
2. Should I do the 12mm head studs, or are the aftermarket 10mm versions plenty?
3. Is it worth porting the heads, and upgrading the valve springs?
4. The stock gearbox seems to be able to take a lot, is it worth upgrading to some stronger components, and if so, what are those upgrades?
Any advice is welcome and MUCH appreciated!!!
Thank you
1. Is going 3.8L worth it? More so if I plan on doing a bigger turbo down the road?
2. Should I do the 12mm head studs, or are the aftermarket 10mm versions plenty?
3. Is it worth porting the heads, and upgrading the valve springs?
4. The stock gearbox seems to be able to take a lot, is it worth upgrading to some stronger components, and if so, what are those upgrades?
Any advice is welcome and MUCH appreciated!!!
Thank you
2. 10mm have had some mixed results, 12mm has solved any issues, they are huge.
3. You could probably meet your goals with the stock heads but the ported heads can give you big power on pump gas and new valves and springs will be more durable.
4. The GT2 stuff is stronger, it should hold up. I'd talk to Bill Rader.
1. The 3.8 will have better low end and spool up. If you are changing pistons and liners you should get it.
2. 10mm have had some mixed results, 12mm has solved any issues, they are huge.
3. You could probably meet your goals with the stock heads but the ported heads can give you big power on pump gas and new valves and springs will be more durable.
4. The GT2 stuff is stronger, it should hold up. I'd talk to Bill Rader.
2. 10mm have had some mixed results, 12mm has solved any issues, they are huge.
3. You could probably meet your goals with the stock heads but the ported heads can give you big power on pump gas and new valves and springs will be more durable.
4. The GT2 stuff is stronger, it should hold up. I'd talk to Bill Rader.
IMO:
1. Ask Todd@Proto how his 4.1 feels with 3076's (personal car), bigger is better
2. 12, especially if you plan on going big later
3. I would not, stock with minor changes do just fine (mid range especially)
4. No, your 3rd gear will give out first = Bill R. with cut gears is the answer. I had problems with 6th going dry while going through the gears, we routed additional hose to 6th gear and a switch for WOT.
Good luck!
1. Ask Todd@Proto how his 4.1 feels with 3076's (personal car), bigger is better
2. 12, especially if you plan on going big later
3. I would not, stock with minor changes do just fine (mid range especially)
4. No, your 3rd gear will give out first = Bill R. with cut gears is the answer. I had problems with 6th going dry while going through the gears, we routed additional hose to 6th gear and a switch for WOT.
Good luck!
I think it is a good idea to ride in a car like this before you spend the money. I thought I wanted one but after I rode in the SRM shop car I realized it isn't what I really want. Unless you are racing everyone all the time it is the most fun to have a nicely balanced car with good handling and the right amount of power. I think the stock power level isn't enough but once you get to 600 wheel HP, man that is a lot. Sometimes it is more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow.
I think it is a good idea to ride in a car like this before you spend the money. I thought I wanted one but after I rode in the SRM shop car I realized it isn't what I really want. Unless you are racing everyone all the time it is the most fun to have a nicely balanced car with good handling and the right amount of power. I think the stock power level isn't enough but once you get to 600 wheel HP, man that is a lot. Sometimes it is more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow.
If anyone in the seattle area wants to take me for a ride in their monster, I'd be more than happy to go for a ride!
In that case you can pretty easily do 1200 if you are getting a 3.8, 12mm studs, ported heads, e85 fuel, transmission, and clutch. Search for the build that VR6TEE did on his 997 cab. He built it himself too.
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Stop in here https://www.maxrpmmotorsports.com/ and speak to Alex, he has been at it a long time and built some sick cars. I believe there is a black 996tt in your area built by him and protomotive that's right around 1200 whp.
Not sure if cost is of concern, if you decide you want big power, you will save tens of thousands by selling you car and buying a built car. These cars are pretty worthless modded, you may ending up sticking an amount into the car equal you what it’s worth. Just a thought.
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