996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

A Guide To A Rwd Conversion For The 996 Turbo

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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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What are your camber settings now Zippy? Do you get much push or power understeer, which can be hard to distinguish between?

I almost had it almost completely nuetral untill I went and tried to lose weight with RWD and messed it all up.

You can always put 20-30 lbs of ballast in the front. Try to lose it in the back as well and improve the balance of the car at the same time. That should negate the push of the LSD by providing more front traction.
 
Old Nov 8, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
I was responding to your question on PSM there Tom. That is time the PSM costs me respectively. And consistent with most.

As far as RWD, I lost at least 1 sec at Barber because of it, and had I been able to put a good lap together without traffic maybe narrowed that down to .5 or so. But it was SOOOOOOO much harder. And not at all because of oversteer, but pushing all over the place.

Of course my setup wasnt near what yours is, but I'm not willing to try LSD under the suspicion that it could increase push. I need more bite on the front end without having to drift around the track to get it rotated. When I get it down, my car will be sickeningly fast.


offer still stands to drive my car at Sebring this weekend, Daytona next month or Sebring jan and feb. after that we will try to come to your sandbox if you dont want to play in ours.

would be nice to see what time you turn in my car. have you driven a Cup car around RA?? the Cups I have been with (996) have faster cornering and exit speed with slower straight line speed than my car so lap times come out about even on a big coarse.
 
Old Nov 8, 2008 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
What are your camber settings now Zippy? Do you get much push or power under steer, which can be hard to distinguish between?

I almost had it almost completely neutral until I went and tried to lose weight with RWD and messed it all up.

You can always put 20-30 lbs of ballast in the front. Try to lose it in the back as well and improve the balance of the car at the same time. That should negate the push of the LSD by providing more front traction.
My car seems pretty neutral. Power over steer is not a problem. I'm at -1.5' camber front and back. GT3 bars 3/4 loose on front and 3/4 tight on back. Motons? F-Me. Still trying to figure out settings. Rebound settings are confusing. All in, the shocks and springs are stiffer on the back and looser on the front. I haven't been to the track enough in the past couple of years to find the need to make any changes to the current setting. But I still think the LSD would be pretty cool. I'm just not too sure how much I would need to rely on sliding the rear around corners to compensate for the added under steer it brings.
 
Old Mar 30, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Sorry to bump a really really old thread lol, but I plan on doing this in the immediate future and was wondering if anyone had the pics that joetwint uploaded as I no longer see that link as working. I'm a pictures type of guy and wanted to see them to confirm I'm doing it correctly.
 
Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Bumping an old thread. I converted my TT to RWD and love the driving characteristics. I took the conversion a step further and made my own axle delete stubs. They weigh half as much as the broken down CV axle stubs, allow for the stock axles to be swapped back in whenever you want to go back to AWD and there's no need to disassemble the CV joints.

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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by white out
Bumping an old thread. I converted my TT to RWD and love the driving characteristics. I took the conversion a step further and made my own axle delete stubs. They weigh half as much as the broken down CV axle stubs, allow for the stock axles to be swapped back in whenever you want to go back to AWD and there's no need to disassemble the CV joints.
i am nearing the completion of the rwd insofar as i/m running rwd only have all the parts and already run the wavetrac etc. just need to stub the axles! have the gt3 parts etc.

how did you accomplish that? it is beyond my pay grade no doubt, but i'd like to be able to keep my original axles if at all possible!

ya never know, it could snow out here lol
 
Old Jun 16, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i am nearing the completion of the rwd insofar as i/m running rwd only have all the parts and already run the wavetrac etc. just need to stub the axles! have the gt3 parts etc.

how did you accomplish that? it is beyond my pay grade no doubt, but i'd like to be able to keep my original axles if at all possible!

ya never know, it could snow out here lol
I basically cut off the fat from the axle stubs associated with handling power since it is no longer needed with the 2WD. The hardest part was getting the speed sensor gears to match perfectly and the correct metal to have proper magnetization.

Always have to look out for snow. lol
 
Old Jun 16, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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thx for that info. will give it some serious consideration. i am determined to complete ( properly ) my rwd conversion and get rid of that infernal hanging front diff and fix the front end geometry once... and for all

in the meantime rwd with tbd lsd is a gas. heavy front end or not! it's insane
 
Old Jun 16, 2015 | 09:39 PM
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your stub looks good! Too many irons in the fire for me right now, had to put the machinist on hold that I had contracted to do my work. I don't think Ti would work for the speed sensor rotors as it is nonferrous. You need iron or steel to create and interrupt a readable magnetic field to get the signal.

Are your take off stubs available? I need something to reference and don't particularly want to take my car down this time of year.
 
Old Jun 17, 2015 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
thx for that info. will give it some serious consideration. i am determined to complete ( properly ) my rwd conversion and get rid of that infernal hanging front diff and fix the front end geometry once... and for all

in the meantime rwd with tbd lsd is a gas. heavy front end or not! it's insane
Yeah, you gotta drop the front half of the driveline. That's where all the weight is. Although having an LSD would be a lot of fun.

Originally Posted by nick49
your stub looks good! Too many irons in the fire for me right now, had to put the machinist on hold that I had contracted to do my work. I don't think Ti would work for the speed sensor rotors as it is nonferrous. You need iron or steel to create and interrupt a readable magnetic field to get the signal.

Are your take off stubs available? I need something to reference and don't particularly want to take my car down this time of year.
Skipped out on making a run in Ti because of the weight savings compared to the price to manufacture is only rational for a select few. But if someone was interested in Ti with a steel ring for the speed sensor, I can make a set.

My OE stubs are spoken for, sorry.
 
Old Jul 25, 2015 | 04:44 PM
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For a highily modified 996tt (+600whp)

Is there any difference in power from AWD to RWD for a manual car??? Can anyone give me the logical answer behind this ??

Advantage and disadvantages ????
 
Old Jul 25, 2015 | 05:54 PM
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throttle steering becomes possible where it really isn't before owing to the nanny aids. also, if one were to go all out and rely upon only their skill and the positive aspects of a properly setup rwd turbo, then one might be able to replicate the type of performance zwart is able to achieve with his gmg setup turbo gt3 up pikes peak. ponder that, and it all becomes clear, the potential advantages.
 
Old Jul 25, 2015 | 06:58 PM
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RWD will have more power to the wheels and properly converted will have less drag. The front drive absorbs power and even with the front driveshaft removed it's still sucking some up. How much of a difference this makes is open to debate but I'm told it's noticeable.
 
Old Jul 26, 2015 | 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMGK
RWD will have more power to the wheels and properly converted will have less drag. The front drive absorbs power and even with the front driveshaft removed it's still sucking some up. How much of a difference this makes is open to debate but I'm told it's noticeable.
I have some measured times for 0-60, 0-100 30-130 and 60-130 when I went AWD with tune and exhaust to RWD with the same... my car is FBO now so my measurements are over a year old... the difference in 60-130 mph was quite a bit.. I think it went from 8.3 secs at that stage to 7.8-7.9 secs or so on the same road same slope same temps or so
 
Old Jul 26, 2015 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wolfhedge
I have some measured times for 0-60, 0-100 30-130 and 60-130 when I went AWD with tune and exhaust to RWD with the same... my car is FBO now so my measurements are over a year old... the difference in 60-130 mph was quite a bit.. I think it went from 8.3 secs at that stage to 7.8-7.9 secs or so on the same road same slope same temps or so
Thanks guys who shared this info.

So it's much better to do conversion yeah ?

Any side effect of this step ?? What would be the difference % in whp??

Like to hear more inputs from the guys who did it over here
 


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