Where is the FPR
On the right side look for the air pump (the round black thing left of center in this pic):

Remove that and you will see the fuel pressure regulator (dead center in this pic):

I've been planning to write a DIY for this - maybe now's the time!
Jeff

Remove that and you will see the fuel pressure regulator (dead center in this pic):

I've been planning to write a DIY for this - maybe now's the time!
Jeff
Finally got around to changing the FPR today. Easy job that will take about 40mins to and hour. The pictures that were provided are very helpful, thanks!
I spent 20mins or so looking for a shortcut, but the bottom line is that the air pump needs to be pulled from the mount and moved out of the way. In order to do this you need to remove the 2 10mm bolts that are screwed into the intake plenum, remove the hose from the bottom of the air pump, and unplug the to wire harness connections. At that point just take the oil fill tube away from the pump bracket and move the pump forward and rotate it to the side. Once you've done that you can see the FPR and you'll have access to it.
My retaining clip was in upside down, so it was a ***** to get out without dropping it. But I reinstalled it facing down so if I ever need to get it out again it will be easy. Once the clip is out, pull the FPR from it housing. I used a little dab of motor oil on the new one to help it slide back in (it's a tight fit) and then reinstalled the clip.
The rest of the stuff goes back together in 1/2 the time it takes to get it out.
Good luck to the DIY guys
I spent 20mins or so looking for a shortcut, but the bottom line is that the air pump needs to be pulled from the mount and moved out of the way. In order to do this you need to remove the 2 10mm bolts that are screwed into the intake plenum, remove the hose from the bottom of the air pump, and unplug the to wire harness connections. At that point just take the oil fill tube away from the pump bracket and move the pump forward and rotate it to the side. Once you've done that you can see the FPR and you'll have access to it.
My retaining clip was in upside down, so it was a ***** to get out without dropping it. But I reinstalled it facing down so if I ever need to get it out again it will be easy. Once the clip is out, pull the FPR from it housing. I used a little dab of motor oil on the new one to help it slide back in (it's a tight fit) and then reinstalled the clip.
The rest of the stuff goes back together in 1/2 the time it takes to get it out.
Good luck to the DIY guys
I did drop the upside down clip (actually, it went TWANGO), but luckily my magnetic retriever snagged it (I couldn't see it from any vantage point, even with my collection of mirrors-on-a-stick).
OTOH, the aluminum nipple from my Forge diverter valve has found a new home on top of the engine somewhere.
Jeff
OTOH, the aluminum nipple from my Forge diverter valve has found a new home on top of the engine somewhere.
Jeff
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You will get a CEL and fail emissions testing. The air pump lowers emissions during cold starts. A talented programmer can modify the DME code to ignore this, avoid CELs and pass emissions.
Cool. That's good to know. Will doing this alter any previously done performance programming?
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