In the footsteps of giants - VF Supercharger Install
#61
12-02-2010, 05:36 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63 
No intention to hijack, but I should respond to alpine003.
I've had the VFE Supercharger for 22,000 miles and a dozen track days.
No problems, except after 4 V3 oil changes I have ruined the brass fittings, so I had to slot them. Now I use a great big screwdriver. And the reason it's running lean is because VF doesn't have maps for the X51. I believe the standard 3.6 has a better A/F mix.
I've had the VFE Supercharger for 22,000 miles and a dozen track days.
No problems, except after 4 V3 oil changes I have ruined the brass fittings, so I had to slot them. Now I use a great big screwdriver. And the reason it's running lean is because VF doesn't have maps for the X51. I believe the standard 3.6 has a better A/F mix.
Cheers
Aaron
#62
12-02-2010, 05:38 PM
No intention to hijack, but I should respond to alpine003.
I've had the VFE Supercharger for 22,000 miles and a dozen track days.
No problems, except after 4 V3 oil changes I have ruined the brass fittings, so I had to slot them. Now I use a great big screwdriver. And the reason it's running lean is because VF doesn't have maps for the X51. I believe the standard 3.6 has a better A/F mix.
I've had the VFE Supercharger for 22,000 miles and a dozen track days.
No problems, except after 4 V3 oil changes I have ruined the brass fittings, so I had to slot them. Now I use a great big screwdriver. And the reason it's running lean is because VF doesn't have maps for the X51. I believe the standard 3.6 has a better A/F mix.
Sorry Aaron for the thread jack. Back to the normal scheduled programming. BTW, it seems like you're making some great progress. In regard to the 3rd radiator, did you get all Porsche OEM parts for that in the kit?
One thing I've contemplated is to get black mesh attached behind the front ductwork to save my radiator fins. Just been too lazy to do this since my bumper is already on.
#63
12-02-2010, 08:00 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63
Yup all OEM parts. I'm considering doing that as well since the last time I cleaned the rads it was ugly stuff...
Trying to find something that doesn't look like crap though...
Cheers
Aaron
Trying to find something that doesn't look like crap though...
Cheers
Aaron
#64
12-03-2010, 06:57 AM
Don't do it...you will probably end up pulling them out anyways!
Deal with the "crap"....mesh grills cut-down on cooling ALOT!
Stacy
#65
12-03-2010, 09:40 AM
I believe there were two versions, one with and one without from the factory. Don't have part numbers off hand but if you look in PET, I'm sure you'll be able to find it.
#67
12-03-2010, 03:17 PM
I'm not 100% sure if this diagram is for mk1 or mk2 but either way, this only came available on CUP ROW cars so you won't find it as part of the US PET diagrams. There are a handful of dealers in the US that can get ROW cup parts though FWIW. I do remember seeing mesh version for both MK1 and MK2 however.
The main point I was trying to make is that I don't think Porsche would've used this on their CUP cars if it presented any cooling issues.
The main point I was trying to make is that I don't think Porsche would've used this on their CUP cars if it presented any cooling issues.
#68
12-03-2010, 03:27 PM
BTW, they are quite pricey IMO and you'd be better off finding something similiar at your local hardware store. Just do not get the gutter drain mesh as they will disturb the air flow
You'll want something like this type:
IIRC, the cup one requires you do remove some trim surrounds anyways making it look like a true racer. haha.
You'll want something like this type:
IIRC, the cup one requires you do remove some trim surrounds anyways making it look like a true racer. haha.
#69
12-03-2010, 05:46 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63
Interesting...
Well I got the rest of the exhaust off today and started in on the spark plugs, tubes, and coils.
The bugger thing is those spark plug tubes. I tried the boat transom plug idea, but that did not work at all. I think there is a removal tool out there for them...
So for today, looks like I'm stuck until I can source a tool tomorrow...
Cheers
Aaron
Well I got the rest of the exhaust off today and started in on the spark plugs, tubes, and coils.
The bugger thing is those spark plug tubes. I tried the boat transom plug idea, but that did not work at all. I think there is a removal tool out there for them...
So for today, looks like I'm stuck until I can source a tool tomorrow...
Cheers
Aaron
Last edited by Purplxd; 12-03-2010 at 05:52 PM.
#71
12-04-2010, 07:12 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63
Well fairly productive day considering all the other things I had to do and that I had dinner plans.
Anyways, I finished the plugs, coils, and tubes on the other side. Also changed the fog and city lights, I know not SC related but was on my list.
Also put the new headers on as I remember an old saying that you shouldn't leave headers off the car too long. I also need to line up the bung placement for an O2 sensor for an AFR gauge.
Going to start on the water pump and thermostat next week...
Cheers
Aaron
Anyways, I finished the plugs, coils, and tubes on the other side. Also changed the fog and city lights, I know not SC related but was on my list.
Also put the new headers on as I remember an old saying that you shouldn't leave headers off the car too long. I also need to line up the bung placement for an O2 sensor for an AFR gauge.
Going to start on the water pump and thermostat next week...
Cheers
Aaron
#72
12-05-2010, 06:47 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63
Hi again,
Well I got the water pump and thermostat replaced today. If you follow on Renntech at all, there was a discussion about IMS, RMS, and cracked head failures on the 996 engines. Jake Raby was saying that he has seen the plastic sprockets fail on the water pumps and the pieces causing cracked heads. His recommendation was to replace the water pumps every 3-4 years.
Anyways, I am a preventative maintenance sort of guy so since it is all apart now, I did it. Lucky I did, it was the factory original pump and the cooling fans were fully intact, but very brittle. They broke right off when I was checking it out after it was off. Dodged a bullet there...
I used the following instructions: http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/
I'd like to add a few points though... First, no matter what you think, the water pump is removed through the bottom. NOT the top, don't bother trying even though it looks like a smart idea.
Also, to do the thermostat and to remove/replace the water pump, it is much easier to loosen a cooling line that is bolted by two bolts behind the headers on the driver's side. Once these bolts are out, you can get at the thermostat bolts with an extension and the water pump is much easier to clear in and out. I've attached a picture for reference.
I was going to start in on the injectors today, but got a little tired. Will focus on that this coming week... I also have a full set of new coolant hoses coming as a few of mine are looking about ready to replace, so if those come in I'll be doing that as well.
Cheers
Aaron
Well I got the water pump and thermostat replaced today. If you follow on Renntech at all, there was a discussion about IMS, RMS, and cracked head failures on the 996 engines. Jake Raby was saying that he has seen the plastic sprockets fail on the water pumps and the pieces causing cracked heads. His recommendation was to replace the water pumps every 3-4 years.
Anyways, I am a preventative maintenance sort of guy so since it is all apart now, I did it. Lucky I did, it was the factory original pump and the cooling fans were fully intact, but very brittle. They broke right off when I was checking it out after it was off. Dodged a bullet there...
I used the following instructions: http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/
I'd like to add a few points though... First, no matter what you think, the water pump is removed through the bottom. NOT the top, don't bother trying even though it looks like a smart idea.
Also, to do the thermostat and to remove/replace the water pump, it is much easier to loosen a cooling line that is bolted by two bolts behind the headers on the driver's side. Once these bolts are out, you can get at the thermostat bolts with an extension and the water pump is much easier to clear in and out. I've attached a picture for reference.
I was going to start in on the injectors today, but got a little tired. Will focus on that this coming week... I also have a full set of new coolant hoses coming as a few of mine are looking about ready to replace, so if those come in I'll be doing that as well.
Cheers
Aaron
#74
12-06-2010, 03:52 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 942
Rep Power: 63
I'm hoping so! With the car torn half apart it should be a lot easier. 
One thing I would say though, is if someone had the equipment and was going to do as much maintenance as I am along with the SC install, I'd just drop the motor. Not looking forward to doing those injectors in the car... yuck.
Cheers
Aaron
One thing I would say though, is if someone had the equipment and was going to do as much maintenance as I am along with the SC install, I'd just drop the motor. Not looking forward to doing those injectors in the car... yuck.
Cheers
Aaron
