Need some additional information on the troubleshooting the cabriolet top issues.
Top went down and now it wont go back up. The clamshell was working but not the top. After pressing by hand on the clamshell to complete the close cycle now its stuck almost closed.
However now the top tries to close but won't because its trapped under the clamshell.
I suspect the microswitches control module is out of whack, I believe its time to rebuild or replace the hydraulics.
It's a 99 C2. I tried the microswitch adjustment near the flaps no effect.
I will continue searching the forums found schematics and bypass way to raise the top. I have not done it yet.
I want to avoid a trip to the dealer to calibrate or diagnosis charges.
http://www.cabriolethydraulics.com/articles.php

 

You might be low on fluid. Common problem with the leaking hydraulic rams.

 

Check your owner's manual for the way you can manually raise the top. Once you get it most of the way up, and with the clamshell fully open, you can remove the panel behind the rear seats to access the hydraulic pump for the top mechanism. Renntech.org has good, photo-laden instructions for checking and topping up fluid.


Good luck.

 

Thanks for the the tips, At this point I have no choice but to manually raise the top. I was wondering if I have a bad engine cover switch or a broken clam shell latch/switch.
the whole recalibration of the top after the repair sounds like a trip to the dealer. I have a friend with the Durametric tool but I don't think it works on my application.
I have no issues dealing with low fluid,cables or leaks. Still searching around for all the data,before I tackle it. So far found help on the general system overview from Pelican parts Cabriolet Hydraulics and Renntech.

 

As you troubleshoot, take a look at 996 Convertible Top Mechanism Issues which may provide additional helpful hints.

Mark/Pelican Parts

 

I'm at a loss here. I'm stuck in the open position.
I tried the emergency close mode listed in the owners manual,
Turned the crew at least 90+ times counter clockwise with no results. Did the cables snap? if they did I should be able to pull the clamshell open by hand.
There must me a latch that's stuck or broken in the close position.
while cranking the screw it seemed to lose tension after turn 10, now it seems to be just spinning.
Electric motor runs for a ±10 seconds then times out.
any tips would be great I haven't seen this problem posted.

BTW:looking through the open flaps with a flashlight the rams seem dry, not indicating a leak.

 

I have tried to unbolt the clam shell through the flaps, had success with the front set the back set have limited access. I will keep trying. just picked up a 90° angle chuck adapter.
I read a post on pulling the roll bars out and accessing the motor and cables through the back seat.
the information wasn't complete. Thats done now anyone have any ideas? Pictures of what to release?
I found lots of tips on the 986
The black flap that covers the latch fell off a few weeks ago didn't think much of it until this issue. See part 30

 

Update!
Got the clam shell open.... back seats removed, pop up roll bar removed, clamshell electric motor removed. Then inserted a 1/4" extension into the clam shell transmission then cranked it open.
I will add some fluid, it closed on it's own but needed a bit of help at the end of the travel.
now I have to figure out if the motor is bad or the micro switches are bad.

 

Seems like my problem originated with the rear latch flap breaking off, and the canvas top stopping the travel of the rear latch.
hopefully this will save someone else the headaches I went through and now having to replace the clamshell drive assembly,then getting it calibrated.
See post # 12 below for the part that failed.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...p-calibration/

 

Hopefully you didn't warp the cables that drive the clamshell when you forced it closed. I believe you originally had a microswitch issue, possibly the plastic "hood" on the hook fell off.

What is the status of the roof? Is it fully latched and allows rear windows to go up and down?

 

I plan to replace the entire assembly unless that cable for the rear latch is sold separately. Waiting for some dealer quotes.
Does anyone know how this motor goes back together? My guess is that the screw snapped when I was trying to perform the emergency operation.
The hook is fine and the rest of the system seems to work now that the fluid is topped off.

 

Dealer quote is going to knock your socks off. Check ebay item#271379728500 for example of used price. (slightly newer setup item#271377727035)

Looks like the bolt for the clamshell snapped. It should have that square piece attached and the spring would go under the bolt. (motor onto case, then spring then bolt)

Have you opened up the black gear casing to see if the "foot" of the slider portion is bused? Or just manually turn the unit to completion and see if the square piece lifts up out of the case and presses the final microswitch.

I believe you need to run a calibration sequence from a PIWIS after replacing needed parts.

 

Thanks for the tips and part numbers. I have not taken the gear casing apart since the rear latch does not travel at the beginning or the end of the cycle.
I can move the rear latch cable toward the micro switch and back by hand only, and it drives the rear hook to close and lock the clamshell. I'm closing it manually until I have replacement parts.
Ebay looks like the best option comes with a motor and potentiometer.

 

So the dealer in Oregon got back to me a new drive assembly is $680.00, used on Ebay $375.00 the used part claims to have only 20k on it. I dont know if these parts weaken over time or just break when the latch gets caught in the canvas top.

I decided to go with the E Bay part from an 03 996 cab.

 

Looks like what happened on my '99 (sold). Previous owner let the canvas guard fall off and caught the top, snapped the "foot" off the clamshell drive.