Yes, a custom one off of course, but a kit for sale available to the public would be better, and keep the price lower.

 

EXACTLY!

 

I know Evo is working on a Stage II kit that is suppose to deliver around 550hp to the flywheel. Currently my car is already doing close to 400hp to the rear wheels, and the thing is screaming fast already.

I don't doubt with some internal work, a lower compression for the pistions and more boost 600 hp to the flywheel should be obtainable.

 

I agree with you, but at what cost? I'm guessing it would come close to doubling the cost of the system. Are the current SC's on there capable of any more power, or would they have to be upgraded too?

 

Can u give us anymore information on this?

 

drift: what did you do get almost 400 to the wheels on a 3.4? should be significantly lower than that, no? I've got a 3.6 and only made 402.

 

My installer was showing the me the wiring etc.. on the boost gauge installation.

They are tapping into the vacuum line on the throttle body that has the plastic check valve on it for monitoring the boost? Is that what you guys would use as well?

 

Gauges are in. Should be getting the car back on monday. They are finishing the cosmetic stuff now.

A/F, TPS, EGT all work great. They did say the boost gauge isn't all that usable. Not a malfunction on the unit's part, but more the way the SC 'd 996 builds boost. They told me that with the dual intake runners, etc, that the actual boost pressure after the throttle body is very inconistent. I haven't seen it yet, but they descibed it as showing peak boost momentarily and then dropping right off after the TB's fully open, or something like that anyway. They likened it to trying to measure tire air pressure with the tire gauge a quarter inch from the valve stem.

My installer would still prefer to mount the boost sensor on the plumbing going from the IC to the TB. EVO is supposedly realeasing a lower silicone boost hose and an aluminum upper boost hose. I may let them try measure the boost off the upper aluminum boost hose after they come in.

 

The boost level should show steady and increasing as acceleration continues. There is no reason, other than a boost leak or bad gauge/sending unit for the boost to show inconsistancy. The flapper in the second intake hose only causes a slight blip in the gauge when it opens or closes if under boost. The valve is fully open after 5100 rpm's. Have your guy check the installtion. If he claims that the flapper valve is causing a problem, simply remove the vaccum hose from the switch and plug it and let him show you that it is steady.

 

i think it was more the dual intake runners that are the claimed culprit. something about the turbulence that the dual runners creates. i'm not a mechanic, so I really couldn't tell you either way.

i thought it would build and hold steady as well, at least till you took your foot off the gas.

what type of gauge are you running 1999 and where do you have it hooked up?

 

Hook up ANY gauge to ANY vacuum line and you will get a steady boost reading. Like I said, if it is not, then you have a gauge problem or a leak. Don't let anybody get you to accept less. Under boost, the engine is a closed system and the intake tubes do not play any part in raising or lowering boost at WOT unless there is a leak. There are no other possabilities unless you have valve problems, which I doubt you do. Also, hook up a vacum gauge and make sure you vacuum is level and steady.

 

Deputy did you get pictures of how they hooked it up? Would make nice addition to the thread. Also when you get your car back give some feedback. RPM = Pressure so hold your car at a steady RPM (under boost conditions) and see if the gauge reads steady "just curious".

 

You can't hold the car in boost unless you are at or near WOT. You can drive 150 mph and not be in boost. Just determine what boost is at maximum rpm and you can calculate the exact boost at all rpm's.

You would have to seriously ride the brake to keep a steady boost level at any speed or be climbing a 45 degree hill.

 

this is the boost sensor i'm using with the zeitronix gauge:

Boost sensor is a 3.5 Bar absolute MAP sensor. The Zt-2's high resolution boost input in conjunction with a Zeitronix Boost Sensor is more accurate than most boost gauges.

i talked to my installer. he said it's hooked up to a vacuum line after the thottle body and before the check valve. he said the digital gauges, like the one in TT, are much more sensitive and will tend to bounce around more.

i'll have them get some pics before I pick it up. not much to see under the car. Just the sensor bungs. the data log connection is in the center console cubby. the brain is right behind there. the display is going on top of the top cubby under the radio.

i definatley plan to do some data logging when i get it back so i can set a baseline. that way i can make comparisons as time goes on.

i spoke to evo today. the silicone boost hoses should be ready any time now. the bottom one is set, and the top is almost done. the top aluminum one is also almost ready, but not exactly recommended due to the heat retention. nice bling factor though

 

I was curious on how much the gauge was jumping around some of the guages I used to use you could set thresholds and sensitivity pots for fine tuning.