Frunk Switch
Frunk Switch
As anyone have the inside switch stop working? Mine just stopped for no apparent reason. Done some checking and you have to buy the entire assembly and not just the switch.
Wondering if there is a fuse related to that switch? Rear works just fine.
Ordered a new switch assembly but I'm still puzzled for the root cause.
Wondering if there is a fuse related to that switch? Rear works just fine.
Ordered a new switch assembly but I'm still puzzled for the root cause.
As anyone have the inside switch stop working? Mine just stopped for no apparent reason. Done some checking and you have to buy the entire assembly and not just the switch.
Wondering if there is a fuse related to that switch? Rear works just fine.
Ordered a new switch assembly but I'm still puzzled for the root cause.
Wondering if there is a fuse related to that switch? Rear works just fine.
Ordered a new switch assembly but I'm still puzzled for the root cause.
I had the same failure on my 2010 C4S Cab 2 months ago .... I brought it into the P Dealer and they swapped it out in less than 30 min while I waited, covered under CPO. The guy said it was pretty common, not linked to any other particular switch
First rule of electrical/electronic systems is that there is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others, but none are good. BTW, the same goes mechanically.
On one of my Triumphs (Spitfire) I had to flip the headlight switch 3 or 4 times before the lights came on. Dirty contacts were "fixed" by the sliding action of the on and off. My method worked 100% of the time. Reliable in a Lucas, Prince of Darkness, kind of way.
I mention this because my frunk switch has become intermittent over the last few months (the remote is my ultimate back up, and my wheel lock is in the glove box). I can't say it isn't bad contacts causing a poor electrical connection, but I believe it is a mechanical connection. If I pull the lever up and then push back it works every time! I figure the switch has come loose and the cam contact between lever and switch is poor. Again, no such thing as a good connection.
I've read that this switch is a common failure item in several places. At some point I will get adequately annoyed and necropsy mine! I figure this is a repairable item, perhaps without the need for new parts.
Credit where credit is due, the connection rule became a mantra thanks to my Father-in-law. It has served me well for many years.
Add another rule ... What does an over lubricated bearing look like?
On one of my Triumphs (Spitfire) I had to flip the headlight switch 3 or 4 times before the lights came on. Dirty contacts were "fixed" by the sliding action of the on and off. My method worked 100% of the time. Reliable in a Lucas, Prince of Darkness, kind of way.
I mention this because my frunk switch has become intermittent over the last few months (the remote is my ultimate back up, and my wheel lock is in the glove box). I can't say it isn't bad contacts causing a poor electrical connection, but I believe it is a mechanical connection. If I pull the lever up and then push back it works every time! I figure the switch has come loose and the cam contact between lever and switch is poor. Again, no such thing as a good connection.
I've read that this switch is a common failure item in several places. At some point I will get adequately annoyed and necropsy mine! I figure this is a repairable item, perhaps without the need for new parts.
Credit where credit is due, the connection rule became a mantra thanks to my Father-in-law. It has served me well for many years.
Add another rule ... What does an over lubricated bearing look like?
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