New Vantage Interior Lights
I am going to order these soon. I am just afraid of knocking out the fuses!
So i guess the tips are:
1. Use a butter knife (or plastic trim remover)
2. Take out the whole connection before changing the bulb.
Is the bulbs and locations the same for a roadster?
So i guess the tips are:
1. Use a butter knife (or plastic trim remover)
2. Take out the whole connection before changing the bulb.
Is the bulbs and locations the same for a roadster?
For the license plate lights, I'd like to order
License (per setoffives’s recommendation)
Qty: 2 | WLED-xHP5: Wedge Base Bulb | $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White - t10
But the natural whites are not available anymore. Only "Cool White," which I don't think will look right.
Question: Will the same bulbs with the "Canbus" specification work? They are available in Natural White.
They are here:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...se-tower/1127/
Thanks, guys.
License (per setoffives’s recommendation)
Qty: 2 | WLED-xHP5: Wedge Base Bulb | $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White - t10
But the natural whites are not available anymore. Only "Cool White," which I don't think will look right.
Question: Will the same bulbs with the "Canbus" specification work? They are available in Natural White.
They are here:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...se-tower/1127/
Thanks, guys.
Answering this question myself, turns out it is a T1-1/2 bulb - a 2721 mini bulb. You can pick them up from the Auto store for a fiver, or I ordered a pack of a pair of Eiko bulbs from Amazon for the same price.
For the license plate lights, I'd like to order
License (per setoffives’s recommendation)
Qty: 2 | WLED-xHP5: Wedge Base Bulb | $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White - t10
But the natural whites are not available anymore. Only "Cool White," which I don't think will look right.
Question: Will the same bulbs with the "Canbus" specification work? They are available in Natural White.
They are here:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...se-tower/1127/
Thanks, guys.
License (per setoffives’s recommendation)
Qty: 2 | WLED-xHP5: Wedge Base Bulb | $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White - t10
But the natural whites are not available anymore. Only "Cool White," which I don't think will look right.
Question: Will the same bulbs with the "Canbus" specification work? They are available in Natural White.
They are here:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...se-tower/1127/
Thanks, guys.
Will cool white look that off?
Wanted to post an update...
For those that don't know or forgot, I bought my Aston from the OP (Michael_996TT) three and a half years ago. So the info he posted in this thread is on my car.
The update: The driver's side map light LED isn't putting out much light at all. You can see that it turns on, it just doesn't shine bright enough to emit light beyond the map light housing. I'll be opening it up to see if I can find the problem. But it's been 5.5 years since the LED lights were installed - not a bad lifespan for such a cheap part.
For those that don't know or forgot, I bought my Aston from the OP (Michael_996TT) three and a half years ago. So the info he posted in this thread is on my car.
The update: The driver's side map light LED isn't putting out much light at all. You can see that it turns on, it just doesn't shine bright enough to emit light beyond the map light housing. I'll be opening it up to see if I can find the problem. But it's been 5.5 years since the LED lights were installed - not a bad lifespan for such a cheap part.
I went to Superbrightleds.com and looks like some of the part numbers listed in this thread are now outdated as of 05.27.2015. Here is the most updated part number list. The older ones are now discontinued. I hope this is helpful!
The driver's side map light LED isn't putting out much light at all. You can see that it turns on, it just doesn't shine bright enough to emit light beyond the map light housing. I'll be opening it up to see if I can find the problem. But it's been 5.5 years since the LED lights were installed - not a bad lifespan for such a cheap part.
WLED-WHP6: Cool White
They were a bit pricey at just under 8 bucks a pop, but I went with them based on the design. Quality over quantity and all that.
I just changed out the lighting in my '07 Vantage. The OEM lighting was so dim that if I accidentally dropped my key on the floor at night I couldn't see well enough to find it!
Got the LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I changed my map lights, footwell lights, trunk lights, and license plate lights.
Important point - the LED bulbs I used are polarized, meaning they can go into the socket 2 ways, but only one way works. So if you put the LED in the socket and it doesn't work, pull out the bulb and rotate it 180 degrees and reinsert it.
The map lights and footwells use the same bulb. I went with a WLED-WHP cool white bulb instead of the WLED-CW6 cool white bulb. The WHP has a single large LED and a 120 degree viewing angle. The CW6 has 6 small LEDs and a 35 degree viewing angle. I bought both kinds to see if there is a difference. It was hard to tell but it seemed that the WHP gave a little more diffuse light that lit up the interior a little better than the more focused CW6. But really, either one is a huge improvement over stock. Popping out the map lights with a small screwdriver was simple and it took me less than 2 minutes to replace both lights.
The driver side footwell light was pretty easy to change, I could see the socket through a gap under the steering wheel and the wire on the socket had enough slack to pull it out a bit for easy reaching. That one took about 5 minutes to do. The passenger side footwell, not so much. It took me nearly 20 minutes of fumbling around blind under the dash, it was easy enough to feel the socket but once unplugged, the wires weren't long enough to make the socket visible, so had to do it all by feel. Twice, since the 50/50 chance you have of getting the polarity right didn't work in my favor on this one.
The trunk lights (4210-CWHP6-V2) popped right in, no blown fuses or anything. Quite bright!
For the exterior license plate bulbs I used WLED-WHP5 cool white LEDs. It took a while to figure out how to remove the license plate light housings from the bumper. At first it seems like it is impossible to remove them, but once you figure out the trick it is easy. Check your Owner's Manual to see which side of the lens assembly you need to pry out first. On mine it was the left side of each lens, but I have seen some newer ones where it is the right side. There is a little screwdriver-blade-sized notch on the side to pry from. Using a flat-blade screwdriver that is smaller than the notch, push the screwdriver blade in between the lens and the bumper, and gently pry the end of the lens out of the hole about 1/8". Remove the screwdriver from the slot, and then slide the lens in the direction of the slot, which will un-hook the other side of the lens from the bumper. Then just pull the housing out, replace the bulb, check to see if it works (remember, polarity trap!) and then if it works, snap the lens back into the bumper. Then do the next one. These LEDs are the perfect brightness and light distribution for this application, they look like how it should have came from the factory. Very worthwhile!
All together, the LEDs needed for this project cost $57.60 including shipping and took about 40 minutes. I could do it again in 15 minutes.
Got the LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I changed my map lights, footwell lights, trunk lights, and license plate lights.
Important point - the LED bulbs I used are polarized, meaning they can go into the socket 2 ways, but only one way works. So if you put the LED in the socket and it doesn't work, pull out the bulb and rotate it 180 degrees and reinsert it.
The map lights and footwells use the same bulb. I went with a WLED-WHP cool white bulb instead of the WLED-CW6 cool white bulb. The WHP has a single large LED and a 120 degree viewing angle. The CW6 has 6 small LEDs and a 35 degree viewing angle. I bought both kinds to see if there is a difference. It was hard to tell but it seemed that the WHP gave a little more diffuse light that lit up the interior a little better than the more focused CW6. But really, either one is a huge improvement over stock. Popping out the map lights with a small screwdriver was simple and it took me less than 2 minutes to replace both lights.
The driver side footwell light was pretty easy to change, I could see the socket through a gap under the steering wheel and the wire on the socket had enough slack to pull it out a bit for easy reaching. That one took about 5 minutes to do. The passenger side footwell, not so much. It took me nearly 20 minutes of fumbling around blind under the dash, it was easy enough to feel the socket but once unplugged, the wires weren't long enough to make the socket visible, so had to do it all by feel. Twice, since the 50/50 chance you have of getting the polarity right didn't work in my favor on this one.
The trunk lights (4210-CWHP6-V2) popped right in, no blown fuses or anything. Quite bright!
For the exterior license plate bulbs I used WLED-WHP5 cool white LEDs. It took a while to figure out how to remove the license plate light housings from the bumper. At first it seems like it is impossible to remove them, but once you figure out the trick it is easy. Check your Owner's Manual to see which side of the lens assembly you need to pry out first. On mine it was the left side of each lens, but I have seen some newer ones where it is the right side. There is a little screwdriver-blade-sized notch on the side to pry from. Using a flat-blade screwdriver that is smaller than the notch, push the screwdriver blade in between the lens and the bumper, and gently pry the end of the lens out of the hole about 1/8". Remove the screwdriver from the slot, and then slide the lens in the direction of the slot, which will un-hook the other side of the lens from the bumper. Then just pull the housing out, replace the bulb, check to see if it works (remember, polarity trap!) and then if it works, snap the lens back into the bumper. Then do the next one. These LEDs are the perfect brightness and light distribution for this application, they look like how it should have came from the factory. Very worthwhile!
All together, the LEDs needed for this project cost $57.60 including shipping and took about 40 minutes. I could do it again in 15 minutes.





