Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

New Vantage Interior Lights

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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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foot well is the same as map lights, trunk is festoon, towards the beginning of this post they have the specs
 
Old Jan 27, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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I am going for the under the door flood lights, license plate, and side turn indicators next
 
Old Jan 31, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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Side turn indicators look like a ***** to replace.
 
Old Jan 31, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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you have to go in through the wheel well, then just pop the bulb out from behind. Realized this when I took out my ECU the other day.
 
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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LED replacment

I cleaned the interior today and one glas popped in... -was looking for a solution to fit the glas back and found this instead; -so I ordered LED.
WLED-W6 for the map light and WLED-W5 for licenceplate, foot well and backseat reading lights. All in Cool white.

But my problem still remains... I removed the metal-ring and popped the glas back... and now the "bulb-holder" went loose.

Would be really happy if someone can explain how I fit it all together again before my new LED bulbs arrive.

My car is a DB9 but it the lights looks the same (according to pics.).

Thanks... Roger
 
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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I solved this problem with some help from my partner in crime (2006 DB9 Volante)....
 
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rogsim
I solved this problem with some help from my partner in crime (2006 DB9 Volante)....
How did you solve this? I just ordered the bulbs, and before I pry out the map lights, I want to make sure I can get things back together
 
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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Front reading lights has a good "manual" early in this thread.

Back reading lights: Use a screwdriver gentle to flip out the metalring, you will get only half of the lamp out, the bulbholder will still sit inside the hole, this one you get out from the hole with some twist and pull (gentle). Now you have the complete lamp out and can change the bulb and mount the 2 pieces together (simple snap-on)... push it back into the hole... done.

Prepere for a big difference... I almost think it's too bright.
 

Last edited by rogsim; Feb 23, 2011 at 10:28 AM.
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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Thanks, rogsim. My bulbs are on the way.
 
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Just one thing... DB9 dont have Festoon in the trunk, instead it's the same as the map lights.
Good luck..
 
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AstonAficionado


Map Lights

Up until this point, the project was going pretty smoothly. This changed, however, once I started fiddling with the map lights.

To get to the map lights, you need to remove the Alcantara housing that sits behind (from the driver’s perspective) the rearview mirror. At first, I removed the rearview mirror thinking that it would make it easier to access the housing. Although this is true to some extent, it actually makes the rest of the procedure more difficult because the mirror is tethered by an electrical cable and once the mirror is removed it hangs down from the roof and pulls down on everything contained within the housing. Therefore, I suggest you leave the rearview mirror in place. If you want to remove it, however, it is secured by a T25 TORX-head screw (see PIC 11).

As I said, you need to remove the Alcantara housing to replace the lights. The housing is kept in place by a distal clip (near the windshield) and a proximal Phillips-head screw (near the rearview mirror) which is hidden by a slotted metal cover on the housing (which I believe covers a microphone for hands-free calls). The screw is visible in PIC 12.

Before you remove the screw and pull off the housing, I must warn you that I had a hell of a time getting the housing back in place once it was off. I think I actually spent over an hour on this part of the project alone. Therefore, if you aren’t mechanically inclined and/or can’t stand frustration, I would think twice before proceeding with changing the map light bulbs yourself.

Okay, now that I have provided that disclaimer, I will continue. Once you remove the screw and pull the Alcantara housing, a bunch of wires will spill out like intestines. For my car, the wires were accompanied by some electrical components which were shoe-horned in the small space defined by the housing. I’m not sure if all of the components are original to the car because at least some of them are for a radar system that the previous owner had. Regardless, the wires and those components are why getting the housing back on was such a challenge.

On the inside of the housing, there are two light fixtures that seat within associated housings. To remove the fixtures from their housings, you give them a small twist and they are freed. My biggest mistake in this whole project was not being able to determine the original orientation of the fixtures before I removed them from their housings (I actually removed them before I removed the Alcantara housing -- my error). Be sure to make a mental note of the original orientations (they will fit in two different orientations) so you can replace them in the positions that most easily enable replacement of the housing.

Once the fixtures are removed, you just pull the old bulbs out and replace them with the new ones. At that point you can replace the fixtures in their housings in their original orientations and put the Alcantara housing back in place. Now that last step is the one I wasted a lot of time on. It was just really difficult to get the housing back in place with all of the wires, electronics, and light fixtures in the way. Furthermore, one of my fixtures would not tightly secure to its housing so it tended to pop out whenever I tried to get the housing back in place. After many, many failed attempts and copious amounts of swearing, I finally got the housing in place with both light fixtures properly seated, but with an open gap between the housing and the headliner on the driver’s side. Fortunately, I was able to close that gap when I secured the housing in place with the screw (did not need to "force" the gap closed -- the screw simply kept the gap closed).
I just replaced my interior lights. Thanks to all who posted instructions. To echo something that Zambono posted, though, you don't need to go through the above painful-sounding directions to replace the map lights. The metal circular housings pop out easily with a flat screwdriver. The only thing I would add is that the rings aren't just a superficial plate--they have some depth, so you need to slide the screwdriver rather deep alongside the ring, while holding it perpendicular to the ring (i.e., push it straight alongside the ring). Once you do that, replacing the map lights takes a minute (or less) rather than an hour.

I only did the map and footwell lights. It's a big improvement, especially the map lights. The cool white matches the dashboard illumination nicely. I also bought red lights for the license plate, but I'm undecided about whether to install them.
 
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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This is a wonderful thread you guys, thank you all for adding such great information! I'll be getting on this...
 
Old May 3, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. To avoid confusion for future buyers, the “x” in the part number is a place holder before the color is chosen.

I just placed the following order:

For the Map and Floor Lights
Qty: 4 | WLED-x6: 6 LED Wedge Base Bulb | $ 3.74 |
WLED-CW6: Cool White 0.95
------------------------------------------------------------
Added for optional color Map Lights because my leather is tan
Qty: 2 | WLED-x6: 6 LED Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.79 |
WLED-A6: Amber
------------------------------------------------------------
License (per setoffives’s recommendation)
Qty: 2 | WLED-xHP5: Wedge Base Bulb | $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White
------------------------------------------------------------
Trunk
Qty: 2 | 4210-xHP6: 6 High Power LED Festoon Bulb | $ 14.95 |
4210-CWHP6: Cool White
 
Old Jul 17, 2011 | 08:33 PM
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So are the license plate light one or two wedge bulbs? They call them 168/194 wedge bulbs.
 
Old Jul 20, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jyeh74
So are the license plate light one or two wedge bulbs? They call them 168/194 wedge bulbs.
Qty. 2 ea. as I previously indicated on my purchase.
 


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