Vantage Premium Audio iPod/USB/Bluetooth Integration Project
#17
As far as ordering it, just do a search online—that is how I ordered mine. There are multiple vendors on the Internet.
#18
Just finished installing mine. A few notes to supplement Karl's writeup:
1. Removing the center console is very easy: 5 screws and one bolt and it slides right out.
2. I have the piano black fascia. Looks like the it is painted wood, best I can tell (see the picture below).
3. I ended up using a BLAM's suggestion of unclipping the navigation screen and then pulling on the upper console. There are 2 arms/clips at the top of the screen that the cover uses to stay attached; pry out and they come off. I must not have as strong fingers as he does: I ended up also using a plastic drywall knife inserted along the right and left edges to help remove it. Once I slid the knife down far enough, the console popped right out. Which was also a problem: with the nav cover loose, it flung wide open and chipped the paint a bit at the corner of the cutout for the nav screen. Just be sure to stuff a rag or something soft behind the navigation cover to keep it from going too far.
4. I suspect Karl's cables were assembled differently than the installation picture shows, as mine were: the cable with the "car side" sticker was actually attached to the opposite light path from what's shown in the instructions. If you go by where Dension shows the sticker instead of the paths, that would lead to a 1C installation with 2B dip settings. I swapped my cables (because I'm **** like that) and ended up with a complete 2B installation. Note that the "CDC side" set of cables isn't used.
5. If you change your dip switch settings because you can't read and spend twice as long installing as you should (like me), be sure to hit the reset button on the Auxiliary input between changes.
6. If you change the cables because you can't read, you'll need to remove the little blue tab that locks the cables in. Do that by pushing on the opposite side with a small screwdriver/awl. You'll then need to GENTLY pry the connectors to allow the shoulders on the cables to slide back out (the lock isn't the only thing holding them in). You'll need to do this to disassemble the cable plugged into the back of the display anyway, so even if you can read, note that there are 2 steps to getting the cables loose. And be careful not to drop the blue tab behind the radio stack.
Took me probably 2.5 hours, first time disassembling the interior, standard nervousness about working on this car. I tapped into one of the grounds just aft of the center console and wired positive directly to the battery (because, though I did read about the ashtray, I forgot; I like that idea better). I tucked the unit behind the center passenger footwell. Fits nicely there and allows for handling without disassembling the console.
2 things I've observed: Disc 2 doesn't show up, and I can't select inputs. Not sure if this is a firmware thing or to be expected.
Other than that, sounds great!
1. Removing the center console is very easy: 5 screws and one bolt and it slides right out.
2. I have the piano black fascia. Looks like the it is painted wood, best I can tell (see the picture below).
3. I ended up using a BLAM's suggestion of unclipping the navigation screen and then pulling on the upper console. There are 2 arms/clips at the top of the screen that the cover uses to stay attached; pry out and they come off. I must not have as strong fingers as he does: I ended up also using a plastic drywall knife inserted along the right and left edges to help remove it. Once I slid the knife down far enough, the console popped right out. Which was also a problem: with the nav cover loose, it flung wide open and chipped the paint a bit at the corner of the cutout for the nav screen. Just be sure to stuff a rag or something soft behind the navigation cover to keep it from going too far.
4. I suspect Karl's cables were assembled differently than the installation picture shows, as mine were: the cable with the "car side" sticker was actually attached to the opposite light path from what's shown in the instructions. If you go by where Dension shows the sticker instead of the paths, that would lead to a 1C installation with 2B dip settings. I swapped my cables (because I'm **** like that) and ended up with a complete 2B installation. Note that the "CDC side" set of cables isn't used.
5. If you change your dip switch settings because you can't read and spend twice as long installing as you should (like me), be sure to hit the reset button on the Auxiliary input between changes.
6. If you change the cables because you can't read, you'll need to remove the little blue tab that locks the cables in. Do that by pushing on the opposite side with a small screwdriver/awl. You'll then need to GENTLY pry the connectors to allow the shoulders on the cables to slide back out (the lock isn't the only thing holding them in). You'll need to do this to disassemble the cable plugged into the back of the display anyway, so even if you can read, note that there are 2 steps to getting the cables loose. And be careful not to drop the blue tab behind the radio stack.
Took me probably 2.5 hours, first time disassembling the interior, standard nervousness about working on this car. I tapped into one of the grounds just aft of the center console and wired positive directly to the battery (because, though I did read about the ashtray, I forgot; I like that idea better). I tucked the unit behind the center passenger footwell. Fits nicely there and allows for handling without disassembling the console.
2 things I've observed: Disc 2 doesn't show up, and I can't select inputs. Not sure if this is a firmware thing or to be expected.
Other than that, sounds great!
#20
you have chosen the switch volvo 2B??
that failures in the operation??
thanks,
thanks,
#21
Just finished installing mine. A few notes to supplement Karl's writeup:
<snip>
4. I suspect Karl's cables were assembled differently than the installation picture shows, as mine were: the cable with the "car side" sticker was actually attached to the opposite light path from what's shown in the instructions. If you go by where Dension shows the sticker instead of the paths, that would lead to a 1C installation with 2B dip settings. I swapped my cables (because I'm **** like that) and ended up with a complete 2B installation. Note that the "CDC side" set of cables isn't used.
<snip>
6. If you change the cables because you can't read, you'll need to remove the little blue tab that locks the cables in. Do that by pushing on the opposite side with a small screwdriver/awl. You'll then need to GENTLY pry the connectors to allow the shoulders on the cables to slide back out (the lock isn't the only thing holding them in). You'll need to do this to disassemble the cable plugged into the back of the display anyway, so even if you can read, note that there are 2 steps to getting the cables loose. And be careful not to drop the blue tab behind the radio stack.
Took me probably 2.5 hours, first time disassembling the interior, standard nervousness about working on this car. I tapped into one of the grounds just aft of the center console and wired positive directly to the battery (because, though I did read about the ashtray, I forgot; I like that idea better). I tucked the unit behind the center passenger footwell. Fits nicely there and allows for handling without disassembling the console.
2 things I've observed: Disc 2 doesn't show up, and I can't select inputs. Not sure if this is a firmware thing or to be expected.
Other than that, sounds great!
<snip>
4. I suspect Karl's cables were assembled differently than the installation picture shows, as mine were: the cable with the "car side" sticker was actually attached to the opposite light path from what's shown in the instructions. If you go by where Dension shows the sticker instead of the paths, that would lead to a 1C installation with 2B dip settings. I swapped my cables (because I'm **** like that) and ended up with a complete 2B installation. Note that the "CDC side" set of cables isn't used.
<snip>
6. If you change the cables because you can't read, you'll need to remove the little blue tab that locks the cables in. Do that by pushing on the opposite side with a small screwdriver/awl. You'll then need to GENTLY pry the connectors to allow the shoulders on the cables to slide back out (the lock isn't the only thing holding them in). You'll need to do this to disassemble the cable plugged into the back of the display anyway, so even if you can read, note that there are 2 steps to getting the cables loose. And be careful not to drop the blue tab behind the radio stack.
Took me probably 2.5 hours, first time disassembling the interior, standard nervousness about working on this car. I tapped into one of the grounds just aft of the center console and wired positive directly to the battery (because, though I did read about the ashtray, I forgot; I like that idea better). I tucked the unit behind the center passenger footwell. Fits nicely there and allows for handling without disassembling the console.
2 things I've observed: Disc 2 doesn't show up, and I can't select inputs. Not sure if this is a firmware thing or to be expected.
Other than that, sounds great!
#6 There are several videos on youtube that show them disassembling the optical connectors. That is where I learned about the little blue tab.
I downloaded the latest firmware from the Dension site. However, I didn't have any issues with Disc #2 or input selection. Does this mean you can't play music from a USB port for example?
#22
#6 There are several videos on youtube that show them disassembling the optical connectors. That is where I learned about the little blue tab.
I downloaded the latest firmware from the Dension site. However, I didn't have any issues with Disc #2 or input selection. Does this mean you can't play music from a USB port for example?
#24
1. Fiber optics: these are about 18 inches or so long. No problem for them reaching down the side.
2. Power wires: I was able to run the positive through the center of the car, through the loom behind the cupholders, and over to the battery with a few inches to spare. I found a ground that's closer. The inline fuse is close to the unit itself, so I can get to that without removing panels.
3. USB cable: reaches all the way back to where the first aid kit is.
4. iPod cable: the shortest. It reaches to just behind the seats, so I have it coming out from under the center console roughly equal with where my passenger seat usually is. I just found that we have pockets on the sides of our seats (had the car for how many months and I just noticed?) that works well for holding my iPhone/iPod/whatever, so the length seems like it's fine, though I wouldn't have minded another foot or so. I believe Karl mentioned he ordered a longer one.
5. Auxiliary/bypass cable: in between the length of the USB cable and the iPod cable. I routed mine the opposite direction of the USB cable in the back. There's a hollow inboard of where the battery is that fits it nicely.
That's the long answer. The short answer is all the included cables fit fine from that location. And, though I hope I'll never have to, I like the idea of being able to get to the unit without disassembling anything.
Not to switch into ad mode, but for anyone on the fence, all Interwebz hyperbole aside, this thing is great. I've tried a few FM modulators, and they really don't compare to the sound quality of this. And my fancy British car now has the same audio capabilities as my '93 F150 with a $100 Sony radio.
#25
Hi Karl,
Haven't logged onto 6speed for a few weeks, then I come online to see that you've successfully tackled both of the projects I was planning to try. Thanks for sharing the valuable info, I think I'll give it a try.
One question I do have is about the CD changer. My CD changer unfortunately jammed over a year ago (PSA, do not unplug power with CDs in the changer, a Volvo design flaw), do you think this installation will still work? based on your description I don't see why it wouldn't.
Was pulling power from the cigarette lighter difficult? I'm very much an amateur with wiring, figure it's probably safer for me to get a friend to help me on this project.
btw, does anyone know the part number of the Volvo-sourced CD changer? AM is quoting me $1100 for a replacement, figure I could find out how much Volvo charges.
Finally, I think I'm going to find a local shop to get my dash trim re-painted as well. The honeycomb is really a weak point on this car.
Haven't logged onto 6speed for a few weeks, then I come online to see that you've successfully tackled both of the projects I was planning to try. Thanks for sharing the valuable info, I think I'll give it a try.
One question I do have is about the CD changer. My CD changer unfortunately jammed over a year ago (PSA, do not unplug power with CDs in the changer, a Volvo design flaw), do you think this installation will still work? based on your description I don't see why it wouldn't.
Was pulling power from the cigarette lighter difficult? I'm very much an amateur with wiring, figure it's probably safer for me to get a friend to help me on this project.
btw, does anyone know the part number of the Volvo-sourced CD changer? AM is quoting me $1100 for a replacement, figure I could find out how much Volvo charges.
Finally, I think I'm going to find a local shop to get my dash trim re-painted as well. The honeycomb is really a weak point on this car.
#26
I'm not sure I follow exactly what you are asking. I routed the cables for USB, iPod Dock and Power between the two vents, alongside the right of the stereo panel, down the side of the center console and in through a corner into the lower console by the right side of the shifter. The power connected to the ashtray outlet because the interface unit needs a constant power supply that is not switched by the ignition. The USB and dock cables continued further back under the armrest and into the area under the rear shelf.
The two fiber optic cables going to the connector that plugs into the back of the display unit need to be separated. The Output side goes to the Dension and from there back to where the cable was originally connected. The display's Input cable remains connected as before. Just use Diagram 1C as a reference.
The two fiber optic cables going to the connector that plugs into the back of the display unit need to be separated. The Output side goes to the Dension and from there back to where the cable was originally connected. The display's Input cable remains connected as before. Just use Diagram 1C as a reference.
#29
Hi Karl,
Haven't logged onto 6speed for a few weeks, then I come online to see that you've successfully tackled both of the projects I was planning to try. Thanks for sharing the valuable info, I think I'll give it a try.
One question I do have is about the CD changer. My CD changer unfortunately jammed over a year ago (PSA, do not unplug power with CDs in the changer, a Volvo design flaw), do you think this installation will still work? based on your description I don't see why it wouldn't.
Was pulling power from the cigarette lighter difficult? I'm very much an amateur with wiring, figure it's probably safer for me to get a friend to help me on this project.
btw, does anyone know the part number of the Volvo-sourced CD changer? AM is quoting me $1100 for a replacement, figure I could find out how much Volvo charges.
Finally, I think I'm going to find a local shop to get my dash trim re-painted as well. The honeycomb is really a weak point on this car.
Haven't logged onto 6speed for a few weeks, then I come online to see that you've successfully tackled both of the projects I was planning to try. Thanks for sharing the valuable info, I think I'll give it a try.
One question I do have is about the CD changer. My CD changer unfortunately jammed over a year ago (PSA, do not unplug power with CDs in the changer, a Volvo design flaw), do you think this installation will still work? based on your description I don't see why it wouldn't.
Was pulling power from the cigarette lighter difficult? I'm very much an amateur with wiring, figure it's probably safer for me to get a friend to help me on this project.
btw, does anyone know the part number of the Volvo-sourced CD changer? AM is quoting me $1100 for a replacement, figure I could find out how much Volvo charges.
Finally, I think I'm going to find a local shop to get my dash trim re-painted as well. The honeycomb is really a weak point on this car.
Tapping power off the back of the cigarette lighter is easy, but if you're an amateur, I would still get a more technical-minded friend to help you.
The honeycomb pattern facia looked a bit out of place or cheap in my my car's interior. I think the piano black is more in character. I'm very happy with the result. Don't skimp on the paint shop. I would go to a custom hotrod or cycle shop like I did, since they specialize in this sort of thing and you should get the results you want.
#30
I had a feeling that wouldn't be clear. If you look at the installation pictures, they show the light out from the Dension unit going through the cable that has the "Car side" tag on it, and the light in to the unit is on the cable with no tag. Mine were reversed. The only difference between the 1C and 2B diagrams is whether you splice the in or out cables.
I remember it was even more confusing because the Dension Pre-Sales tech had sent me an email the week prior to buying the unit. In his message, he suggested I use installation 2a. But I decided to try my approach first because it didn't require me pulling off the front of the stereo to get to the back of the CDC.