Engine making ticking noise.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Sacramento, CA
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Status is still pretty much the same. It's been 100+ weather out here for the last couple of weeks, so the ticking starts up within an hour of driving. When it starts ticking, I just drive it home so I won't be embarrassed by the noise. 80 degree and below weather I can drive for quite a while with little to no ticking. The increase in outside temps most definitely has an affect on it, which is mind boggling to me.
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Central FL
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Status is still pretty much the same. It's been 100+ weather out here for the last couple of weeks, so the ticking starts up within an hour of driving. When it starts ticking, I just drive it home so I won't be embarrassed by the noise. 80 degree and below weather I can drive for quite a while with little to no ticking. The increase in outside temps most definitely has an affect on it, which is mind boggling to me.
Has anyone else found a resolution to this other than the engine rebuild?
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Weeki Wachee Florida
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Not sure about an engine rebuild. Ticking has to be in the valve train. There in no way that Aston is not aware of this and what the solution is.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Sacramento, CA
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I put on another 1000-3000 miles on it since the ticking started.
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From: Sacramento, CA
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They most definitely know about it. And I bet it would be a pretty expensive fix on their behalf if they put out a recall on it. But it's not causing physical harm to anybody so they just sweep this under the rug. Smh.
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Central FL
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I've included a video where the sound can be heard. Mine also only ticks when it reaches and stays at operating temperature for a bit. I remember MaverickV12 saying that he changed his thermostat to the Vanquish one which results in the engine running cooler. Has anyone else tried this? I'm wondering if a cooler running engine will help since it seems the tick only occurs when the car is hot. Mine is a 2005 and has the updated dipstick but i'm not sure when that update occurred and if it was ever run low on oil. Unfortunately, it didn't tick during test drive and I neglected to have a PPI done. This will be a weekend car and I'm wondering how long I should/can keep on driving it before having it stripped. It seems that folks with the tick have lived with it for years.
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Supposedly piston slap in ovalized cylinder liners. Caused by piston big end bearings allowing piston to move too much in the bore. Rumor was that AM changed these to a 'better' bearing thus eliminating the root cause. But take all this with a grain of salt.
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Central FL
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UPDATE
So I started thinking about MaverickV12's statement about the car overheating. The last few months I have been driving the car from time to time. I normally wouldn't drive it in weather that is cold enough for me to not drop the top but I've driven it anyways. And I've noticed that when the weather is less than 65 degrees F, that the car never ticks or takes a really long time (maybe hours) before it starts ticking. Weather above 65 degrees F, the tick comes faster (90+ F, tick will start within 15-20 mins).
So I took MaverickV12s advice and looked into the possible overheating. I ordered a new thermostat and I just removed the radiator. Took the radiator to a radiator shop nearby and they did a quick pressure test..........30% clogged.
So I'm not sure how bad 30% clogged equates to or even if the outside temp truly affects engine temp. But it's a start to some troubleshooting.
I will keep y'all posted.......
And a special thanks to MaverickV12 for chiming in on this.
So I started thinking about MaverickV12's statement about the car overheating. The last few months I have been driving the car from time to time. I normally wouldn't drive it in weather that is cold enough for me to not drop the top but I've driven it anyways. And I've noticed that when the weather is less than 65 degrees F, that the car never ticks or takes a really long time (maybe hours) before it starts ticking. Weather above 65 degrees F, the tick comes faster (90+ F, tick will start within 15-20 mins).
So I took MaverickV12s advice and looked into the possible overheating. I ordered a new thermostat and I just removed the radiator. Took the radiator to a radiator shop nearby and they did a quick pressure test..........30% clogged.
So I'm not sure how bad 30% clogged equates to or even if the outside temp truly affects engine temp. But it's a start to some troubleshooting.
I will keep y'all posted.......
And a special thanks to MaverickV12 for chiming in on this.
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Maverick solved his problem by having the engine rebuilt by B&R. New rod bearings, piston rings, cylinder liners. Don't know if the pistons were changed, but indications are they were still good.
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From: Somerset
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I had a late DB7VV that also did this; never did get to the bottom of it, but I did get to silence it. I modified the water valve so it was permanently open and also altered the temp points at which the fans came on - bottom line was: keep the engine cool.
I've heard that as well as the DB7 V12, the issue afflicts the DB9 V12s that were made pre-Cologne manufacture (I've also personally heard it on a couple of early Vanquish's). As I understand it, you can tell if it's a Cologne engine if the number starts with a 1; Cosworth engines start with a 0. I would be interested to know if those on here who have the tick noise have an engine number beginning with 0 or 1?
I've heard that as well as the DB7 V12, the issue afflicts the DB9 V12s that were made pre-Cologne manufacture (I've also personally heard it on a couple of early Vanquish's). As I understand it, you can tell if it's a Cologne engine if the number starts with a 1; Cosworth engines start with a 0. I would be interested to know if those on here who have the tick noise have an engine number beginning with 0 or 1?
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: San Jose, CA
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If what is being said about the small end rod bearings of early cars wearing out due to inadequate oiling due to a "design flaw" of the shells and/or hot spots in certain areas of the engine is true, then this will happen to everyone who drives the car hard. Cruising on a highway and racking up the miles will simply result in the car having higher mileage before the symptoms begin to show.
I see this as analogous to clutch life for example. You drive in stop-n-go traffic, you'll get less miles out of it compared to someone who is mostly driving on the highway.
All one can do is just avoid the pre 2008 cars altogether or do a PPI and hope your driving style and weather gives you enough engine life for your ownership.
Just my $0.02.
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 20
From: Central FL
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I had a late DB7VV that also did this; never did get to the bottom of it, but I did get to silence it. I modified the water valve so it was permanently open and also altered the temp points at which the fans came on - bottom line was: keep the engine cool.
I've heard that as well as the DB7 V12, the issue afflicts the DB9 V12s that were made pre-Cologne manufacture (I've also personally heard it on a couple of early Vanquish's). As I understand it, you can tell if it's a Cologne engine if the number starts with a 1; Cosworth engines start with a 0. I would be interested to know if those on here who have the tick noise have an engine number beginning with 0 or 1?
I've heard that as well as the DB7 V12, the issue afflicts the DB9 V12s that were made pre-Cologne manufacture (I've also personally heard it on a couple of early Vanquish's). As I understand it, you can tell if it's a Cologne engine if the number starts with a 1; Cosworth engines start with a 0. I would be interested to know if those on here who have the tick noise have an engine number beginning with 0 or 1?
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 15
From: Somerset
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Changed the fan settings so that the one that normally comes on first, at about 90deg, came on with ignition and the other (high speed) fan came on at 90 instead of the higher temp. This second one also comes on when the AC compressor is running. I didn't do the work, just got a local car electrical expert to do the work.
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Central FL
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I reached out to Aston Martin just via their contact form on their website. Based on this, I guess my next step is to pay the dealership to tell me I need an engine rebuild or tell me to run a thicker oil. Below is the unsurprising response:
"Firstly, on behalf of Aston Martin, I apologise that you are experiencing a reported concern with your DB9 V12.
As I am sure you can appreciate, your Aston Martin is outside of its Manufactures Warranty, but in the first instance I would recommend that your car is looked at by an Aston Martin Approved Dealership so they can advise you further on your reported concern."
"Firstly, on behalf of Aston Martin, I apologise that you are experiencing a reported concern with your DB9 V12.
As I am sure you can appreciate, your Aston Martin is outside of its Manufactures Warranty, but in the first instance I would recommend that your car is looked at by an Aston Martin Approved Dealership so they can advise you further on your reported concern."
