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Stuff I am working on

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  #181  
Old 04-22-2018, 01:33 AM
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In full disclosure I did not have control of rebound dampening the day we tracked the car. We were maxed bump and rebound on the rear and max bump on the front. Will run again in September with full adjustability.


chr
 
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  #182  
Old 04-22-2018, 11:08 AM
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Rebound dampening was not adjustable because the adjusting screw was not accessible at the rear, right? Again thank you for the much needed information on the KW coilovers and their performance!
 
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  #183  
Old 04-22-2018, 02:23 PM
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I don't know the KW V3 on the Vantage, but have very good experience with a KW V3 on my BMW trackcar.
No problems with the composite adjusters, I use a soft copper brush to clean dirt from the treads before adjustments.
The low-speed-bump adjustment is extremely effective to adjust the cars initial response, and it allows to use softer springs/bars while still have good roll control, however the comfort (aks high-speed-bump still allows comfort). It really pays off to play with it on track. Also, KW can change/readjust the damper-line to your request.

Thomas
 
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  #184  
Old 04-22-2018, 09:10 PM
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We had no trouble at all adjusting the rears it was quite easy. Pay attention when installing and make sure the adjusters are facing the same direction, this will simplify adjustment at the track. We would have had no problem adjusting rebound at the front except I left the key at the shop. Adjusting the bump really transformed the cars response and we were maxed on bump on all 4 corners. We arrived at the track with them set as delivered from KW which IIRC is right at the middle. That was far too soft for track work. I just kept cranking them up and we were really running at the end of the day. I just question having to run them maxed for track work.


chr
 
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  #185  
Old 04-25-2018, 02:03 PM
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It has been beautful weather here and my truck is in the shop so I have been driving the Vantage. Been playing blues for a long time now I took it to a jam last night. The BandMaster fit perfectly.








Aston Vantage - 50K
Gibson R8 - 3500
59 5E7 Clone - 3500

Playing blues in a Southeast Portland dive - Priceless

chr
 
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  #186  
Old 04-25-2018, 02:11 PM
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I guess you were wearing black sunglasses while driving your Bluesmobile?
 
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  #187  
Old 04-25-2018, 04:17 PM
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Certainly -

chr
 
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  #188  
Old 06-09-2018, 05:55 PM
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Wanted to share my CEL situation. I was not able to get it corrected with a plastic replacement cap. I went back and spent some time studying the codes and every time it was the DMTL pump so I got it in my mind I would take it to Park Place for diagnosis. The day before we were to leave I loaded it into the trailer for tow to Seattle. After I got the thing secured in the trailer I remembered some threads here about dealerships re-flashing to the stock tunes for diagnostic work. I called Doug at Park Place and he confirmed they would want the stock tune. The next morning I unloaded the car, flashed the stock tune, and re-installed the stock gas cap. Well that was not so great because that cleared the codes. I called Doug and canceled the appointment to give me time to drive the car to get the CEL to re-trigger. For the next week or so I drove the car around during the day, but got nowhere. Friday I drove the car on 150 mile round trip jaunt up the Columbia Gorge and back . This included two 1/2 hour business stops and varied speed with a couple of runs reaching 100. It sat in the rain over night and I took it to breakfast this morning and still no light. I am hoping by writing this karma will jump in and re-trigger the light. On the other hand, is it possible re-flashing deleted errant data from running at the track? I've put several hundred miles on it since the re-flash - I gotta say, this car is addicting.

chr




 
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  #189  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:29 PM
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Got to thinking about the "other hand" and decided I should try DEQ.

Drove it straight back to the shop and re-flashed VAP.

Side note = simply amazed how much the exhaust frees up the engine response. With the stock tune I was still able to heel and toe with no problem.


chr
 

Last edited by era2076; 06-12-2018 at 10:10 PM. Reason: "WITH" the stock tune
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  #190  
Old 06-18-2018, 10:01 PM
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We are signed up to run at PIR at the end of July so we started working on reinstalling the original uppers with Delrin Bushings.

We cleaned the mounting faces on the subframe and applied some lithium grease to the bushing faces and mounting faces.





Since there is no give in the Delrin I was a little concerned about alignment, but the arms slid in with minimal clearance by hand.








Likewise the bolts were easily aligned and pushed thru by hand.


We applied grease before torquing to try to fill the sleeves. Plenty squeezed out when we torqued the bolts. We'll run it 50 miles and re-apply.






I was very impressed with the steering feel after installing the arms with the gen 2 bushings from Aston. It will be interesting to see what the NVH will be like on the street with solid bushings in the uppers. Will be really interesting to see how it handles at the track.

Don't forget to wipe off the excess grease it makes an awful mess.

chr
 

Last edited by era2076; 06-19-2018 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Added 1st Picture
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  #191  
Old 06-22-2018, 04:58 PM
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We reinstalled the original uppers with the new Delrin bushings. Needs a little re-work but should be running by Monday afternoon.





I finally broke down a purchased a set of SmartStrings. Looks like we won't even have to remove the engine cover.

 
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  #192  
Old 06-27-2018, 06:18 PM
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We corrected the zerc locations. We had them at 12 as viewed from the front, but moved them to 9. In the 12 oclock position they will not clear the subframe when the arm rotates. We bolted it it together and drove it this afternoon. The steering is much, much tighter. I am going to drive it home tonight and then dis- assemble and fit each shim individually such that the arms fall under their own weight when torqued to spec. I can only imagine what it would be like with the lowers replaced.





Door edge molding added as a rub strip to the splitter.
 
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  #193  
Old 06-28-2018, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post
...We bolted it it together and drove it this afternoon. The steering is much, much tighter. ...
This is really interesting news.

When I read your past statement correctly, then already mounting a new top wishbone (with a revised bushing design) tightend the steering
- and now (basically without elasticity) even more. -->seems like a small series of bushing would be an interessting idea...

Does anybody have an overview of the various wishbones and their differences?
as I understand, there are
Upper arms
2006 6G33-3091-AB
2007 4G43-3091-BE
V8VS and 2012+ 8D33-3091-AC
V12 6G33-3091-AB

Lower arms:
2006-2009 6G33-3A053-BA , 6G33-3A052-BA unclear difference
2009-2012 8D33-3A053-AC
V8VS and 2012+ 8G33-3A053-AB ones (wich also had different knuckle and changed (???) geometry.
V12 8G33-3A053-AB
Numbers quoted are front LH side.
Not on the list the the GT8 - which may have wider arms.
 

Last edited by TR-Spider; 06-28-2018 at 07:50 AM.
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  #194  
Old 06-28-2018, 10:10 AM
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Yes - I originally requested sport pack arms. I purchased new uppers from VAP and IIRC was told Aston upgraded the bushing stiffness on the upper arms and all the later cars have the stiffer bushings. I believe the PN I purchased are the 8D33 - I will check this later today. I did install the front and rear and it most definitely improved the feel of the steering. That surprised me and I concluded with the sleeves pinched, the bushings are not stiff enough to keep the sprung mass from over deflecting the bushings such that the cg drifts laterally thru the bushings under cornering (and assume vertically under braking). That would make for inconsistent load at the contact patch. So my thinking was to at least control the movement of the top of the upright. The lowers do more work and would keep it aligned, but NVH would be a penalty on the street. There is NVH penalty with the uppers, but I need to drive it enough to know if I can live with it. A couple of guy's at the shop know the car and one of them has driven it on the track so I will send him out for a drive today. The other one drove it yesterday and was all smiles and stated there is more road feel being transmitted thru the steering. I drove it last night and it is very inspiring. I am going to go ahead and fit the shims individually and try to source a set of front lowers with the stiffer bushings. That will most likely be as far as I go. The car as it sits now drives and handles nothing like what I purchased.It will most likely allow us to run a bit softer shock setting on the street. We are running them at 3/4 now which to me feels a tad stiff under slow movement. It will take some work to find the right balance for the street.

To be clear - I purchased a set of OEM arms with stiffer bushings, installed them, ran them, and would not install anything softer - I still have those unmolested. We modified the original arms that came on the car and re-installed them.

Very excited to get it back to the track.

chr
 
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  #195  
Old 06-28-2018, 03:13 PM
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I went back thru the purchasing correspondence to help shed some light.

Cool – I read the S had stiffer bushings in the front upper control arms – do you know anything about this e.g.

1) how many bushings were stiffened
2) which ones
3) will they fit in 06 arms
4) are they available

x-chr
Originally Posted by VAP
The control arms in the V8 S are the same as a regular Vantage. They are not very good. The problem with the V8 arms and early DB9’s, is the plastic sleeves that hold the bushing. The plastic sleeve slides in the aluminum arm with braking and hard cornering. Once the bushing slides, your caster is off by a good +1degree. Once the caster is out on the Vantage, this will pull on the lower arm and set camber “positive” as well..then enter another corner and brake, you’ve just shifted the problem to the other side and then pulled your other side to negative specs…constant fight for retaining correct caster.

The upper arms on a 2013+ DB9 have resolved the upper bushing issue, they’ve done away with the plastic sleeve and used a proper metal sleeve. The V12 Vantage “S” is also the same and a little stiffer.

You CANNOT swap out the bushing, the arm is aluminum and will not contract to hold a new bushing unlike steel. It is the main reason why no OEM supplier will sell bushings, will always come with the arms for liability reasons and pure safety.

So your options are complete control arm replacement to the V12VS units. But, if you’re replacing the entire control arm and you’re serious about it I would consider the AMR control arms with spherical bearings. You will also need the little spacers to fit the arm snug in the front structure. AMR just uses a generic spherical bearing and then machines these little spacers to make the arm fit correctly with the structure (believe it’s 2 per bearing so 4 total). Think you will also need their bolts/nuts for the arms.

So I purchased, installed, and ran a full set of V12VS upper arms on the street which got me thinking.

With respect to the lowers

Originally Posted by VAP
* Early Sportpack, V8 Vantage S, and also the GT8 lower arms, are all stiffer..roadsters didn’t have order option but can be installed, so if it’s a roadster with sportpack, it got the regular arms. Here’s the stiffer lower arms:*
8G33-3A052-AB is the RHF

8G33-3A053-AB is the LHF
BTW, these aren’t the arms that fail(sliding bushings)..just has a stiffer bushing..but not sure it’s worth the time/money.

Of course I will need to try them


chr
 
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