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Stuff I am working on

 
  #331  
Old 04-14-2019, 09:53 PM
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Yes the fronts are close but just will not allow access (see below). The rear chassis bolts are completely hidden by the sliders.


 
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Old 04-15-2019, 01:54 AM
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I would try to use a small, sharp chisel and try working horizontally from the front.
Work in 2 steps:
first make a nice groove into the bolt head
second loosen the bolt using this groove.

best of luck...

 
  #333  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:50 AM
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Thanks for the guidance, this is unfortunately looking like the only option.

Iím going to wait for the seat manufacture to send me the other bits needed to correctly install my drivers seat, and get that installed first. I am then going to take the car to a race shop near my house to see if they have any ideas in person before I undertake your suggested approach. Thanks!
 
  #334  
Old 04-15-2019, 12:31 PM
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Have you considered drilling access holes thru the seat pan?

chr
 
  #335  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:31 PM
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Drilling through the seat itself would be the absolute last resort! Iím going to take it by a race shop and a high end body shop I know well before that happens to see what ideas they have.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:56 PM
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They put some pretty big holes in them Thinking ahead - what would "1 holes properly located do for you?



chr
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post
I drove an SRF last week Ö What a great day. My lap times came down all day with a personal best in the last session. I actually hung with the young guy's. Had it twisted up a few times, but I did not crash it and it was still running when I left

era2076,

Your picture of the Spec Racer Ford brought back many memories of my own SCCA racing days with a (then) Sports Renault. (This was in 1985-1987.) These cars are great to race, and I learned a lot about suspension alignment in the process. My major claim to fame was beating Dorsey Schroeder 1 time out of 2 and Robbie Buhl 2 times out of 3. Dorsey later went on to become the Trans Am champion, and Robbie ultimately raced in Indy Car for a number of years, nearly winning the Indy 500 one year.

Compared to the Vantage, a Spec Racer is all about maintaining momentum. They don't have the horsepower to make up for a subpar corner exit speed. They also need an optimal amount of trail-braking into the corners, but that's true of most types of cars on-track.

Your fabrication work on both of your cars is most impressive. Good luck with the cars' development!

Rick F.

 
  #338  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:32 PM
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Thank You - Driving an SRF the next two days. Supposed to rain both day's - I can hardly wait
 
  #339  
Old 04-15-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post
They put some pretty big holes in them Thinking ahead - what would "1 holes properly located do for you?



chr
Very true Cliff, but the bolts are straight beneah the side bolsters if you wanted to get at it straight on.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:06 PM
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We spent several hours measuring stuff today and we finally isolated where our error is coming from. I measured the seat bucket with a large caliper and the bucket width was consistent within .040 so clearly there is no error there. We bolted the frame assembly into the car and then lowered the seat into the frame and there was a large gap between the frame and the seat. We removed the frame from the car and measured the distance between the chassis inserts side to side. Then we remounted the frame to the seat and checked the distances between the mounting holes (on the bench) and wa --lah the error comes from the bends in the seat frames.



As Eric found out the end of the slider needs too be radius-ed to allow the flanged OEM bolt to clear. The shiny cap bolt is an M8 matching the OEM thread. It accepts a 6mm hex key.



Once we got it reassembled and measured the rear mounting holes were of the correct width, but the fronts were to wide. We used a clamp and squeezed the rails together until the correct measurement was achieved. This took very little force. We used zip ties to hold the rails at the right distance. We then put the chair back in the car and tried to bolt it in which was our most successful attempt yet. We were able to get 5 of the 6 bolts fully threaded. We need to open the slider holes in the risers to match the diameter of the holes in the sliders. Another problem is not having the slider fully positioned and clamped when we put the seat in so we are drilling new holes in the middle of the risers so that we can have the slides centered and fully clamped to the riser when we put the seat in the car.



Here is a picture with the seat installed. The seat is in the most forward position. I don't have a picture of the front, but it is similar clearance. The two front bolts are very accessible so I am confused why Eric is experiencing the trouble he is. If we had to grind out the slider bolt there is room to do it.



Once we finally get the thing bolted in we are going to fabricate spreaders to hold the mounting holes at the proper distances on the bench. Then we will fabricate a new submarine sub-frame to accommodate that dimension.

chr
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DetomasoGTS74 View Post
Very true Cliff, but the bolts are straight beneah the side bolsters if you wanted to get at it straight on.
Yea - not perfect for sure. Can you get a small angle grinder in there and grind that head off? I am baffled why you have no working room.

(Turn on light bulb) - your frame (chair) is lower - duh!!!

Damn - what a bummer.

chr
 
  #342  
Old 04-16-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post
Yea - not perfect for sure. Can you get a small angle grinder in there and grind that head off? I am baffled why you have no working room.

(Turn on light bulb) - your frame (chair) is lower - duh!!!

Damn - what a bummer.

chr
Exactly right, no worries Cliff. To give you an idea just how low.....the bottom of the seat in the rear on its lowest setting with the ultra low side mounts is literally 1-2cm above the adapter place. It is LOW!

Heard from the owner, they did mess up and forgot to send me an additional two risers that have the holes for the lower belt. Yours are built in on the side of the mount whereas on the ultra low they need to be added. They are priority shipping the missing pieces. I also just spoke with the owner Mark who spent a good 20 mins listening to the situation, and walking through possible solutions. In the end there were two solutions that will not involve any cutting and should work:

1) Slide seat forward and remove 2 bolts that attach sliders to the seat from underneath. Slide seat backwards and remove bolts that connect sliders to the seat in the rear. This will be extremely tight given how low my seat is, but his technician ensures it can be done.

If that does not work

2) Remove 2 side bolts between side mounts and seat. Loosen side bolt in rear that is accessible (door side) and then tilt the seat back carefully to allow access to the front.
 

Last edited by DetomasoGTS74; 04-16-2019 at 09:44 AM.
  #343  
Old 04-25-2019, 05:56 PM
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Talking Submarine Belt Subframe Rev 2

We are hard back on Rev 2 of our submarine sub-frame. This time we built it completely to the car not the seat. After several iterations we finally used temporary spreaders on the bench to hold the hole locations of the supplied seat frames to the desired width needed to bolt them into the car. This allowed us to build the sub-frame on the bench to the proper dimension. This afternoon it finally dropped right in and bolted down easily. It seems all we have to do is triangulate it and the mechanical part of the seat installation will be finished. Nice it is now a single assembly that can be easily installed and removed.

Note - the Schroth ring on the tunnel side must be straightened some. There is not enough clearance between the tunnel and the seat frame to run so much twist.



SRF Notes: Got to run the SRF for two days. I ran a 1.31:4 the second day. Another personal best by a second and I had fastest lap for Gen 1. I told the Gen 3 guy's there was no way I was going to back out of it when they caught me. I would hold my line and it was on them to get it done. I held them off twice at turn 1 which put them taking me at turn 4. This let me chase them thru 4,5,6, and 7 which I could do. Once we turned on to the straight at 7 it was adios. Those frigging things are so much quicker ( -100lbs + 25 hp = 11 lbs/hp vs 15 for Gen1).

It was very wet the second morning. A bunch of young guns in group 1 and I think everyone of them went off. A Gen 3 went into the wall in the braking zone at 10 which required some repair - ouch. I tested it when we went out and the rear stepped out immediately (very, very, wet).

I was in shock when an instructor said none of us was carrying enough speed thru turn 4 - "are you f3g serious?" . Turns out he was correct, but it took some inner digging to try it . By the end I was running 4 and 5 at full throttle in 3rd and 10 and 11 full throttle in 4th. A very strange experience the first time you do it.

I have completed 600 miles with lessons. The coaching is fantastic - the faster you go, the faster they want you to go

Going to run again in July.

chr
 
  #344  
Old 04-25-2019, 05:57 PM
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Eric - you back on track?

chr
 
  #345  
Old 04-27-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post
Eric - you back on track?

chr
Cliff-After they sent me the missing pieces I have since installed the driver seat. The passenger seat is still stuck with the rounded off bolt and no way to attach the seatbelt to the bottom. I am taking the car in on Monday to a high-end body shop that I trust to see if they have any ideas.

I must say that Iím very happy with the look and feel of the new seat. I am 6-3Ē and wanted to sit low. With the low rise set up itís actually almost too low for even me. My butt is literally 2 inches from the floor pan!
 

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