When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
well darn. I bought another (different) resistor that had longer prongs that I figured would be easier to solder. This new resistor didn’t work and triggered the red air bag light that stays on.
I cleared the code and soldered on the resistor that I knew worked and it did eliminate the red airbag light but now in its place I have “SRS airbag service required” yellow light that removes when you select “read”. I can not remove the code for good as it comes back on after clearing with the scanner.
Anyone seen even the below code before or know how to get ride of it? I have the resistor connected. Thanks
Eric did you ever get this resolved. I was just scrolling back thru and found this. Forgot all about it.
Purchased and raced at the end of the year. Sunday was pouring rain - the whole weekend was like drinking from a fire hose.
Really excited to run it in 20.
Hey Cliff happy to hear you are almost finished! I have loved the seats for some time now! Did you put the code reader on it? I believe on mine it was actually the seatbelt, and when I put a resistor on it everything cleared! Let me know what you find with the code reader.
Yes we put a foxwell reader on it this afternoon thru the obd port and it showed no codes. Should we have connected to the chassis side. I have never done that and was unsure of compatibility.
Yes we put a foxwell reader on it this afternoon thru the obd port and it showed no codes. Should we have connected to the chassis side. I have never done that and was unsure of compatibility.
x-chr
Correct, I forget exactly what it’s called but I believe it’s a restraints module on the body/chassis port. You could also select the option to run through all the modules for the body/chassis.
You'll need a scanner that works on the body module, the connector on the right (engine module is on left). Not all scanners will be compatible. I just got a Foxwell NT510 that reset mine without any problems ( I had the car apart with the front sensors deactivated and turned on the ignition which popped the same code).
Everything is bolted back in. Our Foxwell will not read the chassis side so I ordered an Autel. Some of the panel fir trees were too damaged to re-use so we used some from NAPA and they worked very well. The heads were to big and stiff to be able to push into the panel receptacles so we shaved down the heads on two parallel sides to the same diameter as the receptacles. That provided enough clearance for them to be snapped into the receptacles.
Several panels needed re-glue of leather or carpet. We used Barge. IIRC I learned about it here. It is a really nice product to work with. We pulled the staples out of the panels and the used spring clamps to hold the material in place. We'll see over time how it holds up. Re-stretched the arm rest while we were there
Some of the panel tabs were cracked so we used a glass repair kit from NAPA. Worked great
Amazingly, using Schroths hardware and the belt receptacles fully torqued, the receptacles rotate very easy. Pretty simple job to clip the belts in. The belts need to be fitted and trimmed, but it looks like it is going to work.
Chr
Last edited by era2076; 11-12-2019 at 05:16 PM.
Reason: syntax
I'd like to come back to an older point of discussion.
I just had a look at the state of my upper wishbones...they are pretty much done, I have some 2.5 mm slide of the rear bushing.
No wonder I could only get 4°45' of Caster - that 2.5mm slippage equals to roughly 30' Caster.
That means the V12S upper arms are on my Christmas list.
However, I was wondering on why the bearing slipped in the first place.
From my point of view the force pushing the arm forward comes from the braking.
However, it also means that the front bearing must have been compressed over time (as rubber does) - otherwise the rear would have no "motivation" so slide.
Since noone supplied bushings for our V8V, I intent to stick with V12S uprated stock bushings.
But even if it are the uprated V12S ones, I think the braking force may still make the bushing slide internally over time, as rubber tends to do that.
So first of all I would be curious if the front bushing sits tight against the frame in the front when initially mounted?
Judging from that pic below (courtesy Aston 1936's DB9 webpage) it does not, there seems to be a gap (maybe ~1.5mm?, or does that close once the bolt is tightend?) :
Second I'm thinking about to put a washer in at the front busing, which would reduce the initial play to zero and thus minimize the axial movement.
As you have recently played with the V12S arms, I'd be interested on your view.
Originally Posted by VAP The control arms in the V8 S are the same as a regular Vantage. They are not very good. The problem with the V8 arms and early DB9’s, is the plastic sleeves that hold the bushing. The plastic sleeve slides in the aluminum arm with braking and hard cornering. Once the bushing slides, your caster is off by a good +1degree. Once the caster is out on the Vantage, this will pull on the lower arm and set camber “positive” as well..then enter another corner and brake, you’ve just shifted the problem to the other side and then pulled your other side to negative specs…constant fight for retaining correct caster.
The upper arms on a 2013+ DB9 have resolved the upper bushing issue, they’ve done away with the plastic sleeve and used a proper metal sleeve. The V12 Vantage “S” is also the same and a little stiffer.
You CANNOT swap out the bushing, the arm is aluminum and will not contract to hold a new bushing unlike steel. It is the main reason why no OEM supplier will sell bushings, will always come with the arms for liability reasons and pure safety.
So your options are complete control arm replacement to the V12VS units. But, if you’re replacing the entire control arm and you’re serious about it I would consider the AMR control arms with spherical bearings. You will also need the little spacers to fit the arm snug in the front structure. AMR just uses a generic spherical bearing and then machines these little spacers to make the arm fit correctly with the structure (believe it’s 2 per bearing so 4 total). Think you will also need their bolts/nuts for the arms.
Thomas - its been a while and I don't remember everything so I posted Stuarts info as reference.
IIRC the rubber bushing is bonded to an inner metal sleeve and the bolt when torqued does not allow the metal sleeve to move. The outer shell is plastic and is pressed into the control arm bores. If it were working correctly, the bushing should add spring rate as the metal sleeve is clamped and cannot rotate. The problem with using plastic for the outer shell, is it allowed the arm to slide relative to the outer shell. There is not enough friction between the arm bore and the plastic sleeve or perhaps the forces were breaking the plastic. The later arms, including the V12s, abandoned the plastic and as reported above went to metal. We did not dis-assemble the v12 arms to find out.
We abandoned AMs bushing design, simplified it, and stiffened it. We did use shims to keep the arms from sliding on the inner sleeves. We as-built the inner sleeve lengths to the length between the chassis tabs. We as-built the shim thicknesses for rotation force. Our goal was to have the arms fall under their own weight and the last time we checked they were falling at less <= 1lb. We used an interference fit for the Delrin bushings into the arm bores and each bushing had to be turned and fit for the bore it was going into. There is no outer shell. The bushings seat directly into the arm bores. It took several iterations to get the shim thicknesses correct such that the arms would freely fall. Four shims per arm have to be fit. Each shim could take several iterations so it requires some patience to get it. So unlike the AM design, our bushings are not bonded to the inner sleeve, rather, they freely rotate around it.
I am in no way an authority on AM bushing design, Stuart is very well informed and helped me understand enough to have confidence to abandon AM bushings in the upper arms. (In fairness to Stuart - no instruction or encouragement were provided. He clearly advises against it above ). I am not a fan of using bushings for spring rate on track driven vehicles. Most, if not all modern cars are built this way. It is smooth and quiet, but not optimal at the limit. My thinking was if we could get control of the upper arms it could help with steering response and it did. I have not studied anti-dive and anti squat on these cars so the lowers are still factory.
You should not have to shim the V12s arms because the outer shells no longer slide in the bore of the arms. The inner sleeve is torqued and cannot rotate, the bushing is bonded to the inner sleeve, and If IIRC there is a metal flange that is also trapped against the outside of the arm. There is nowhere for it to go (the 1.5mm gap should close when you fully torque it, trapping the inner sleeve same as ours)
That is my understanding of the reported theory I hope I have not added confusion
Don't I have a beautiful set of V12s uppers that need a home?
11-08-2019, 04:46 PM
