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Sorry, my kit had extended studs (17.5 mm longer).
It is expensive to have the old studs removed and the new ones pressed in.
So extended lug bolts sound reasonable, until you take a step back and see an Aston Martin with modified lug nuts.
both doors now open when I click the 'open' button on the keyfob. I think the issue before was that the door appeared to be unlocking, but when I pulled on the door handle the window wouldn't drop to allow the door to physically open. Appears resolved now.
Thanks for that. Is it possible to get extended lug bolts for the spacers? Many of the kits I've looked at in the past have that option.
You can run spacers up to 11mm without changing the studs only with new nuts (with full thread inside).
H&R offers them as package, but you can also get inexpensive matching Ford nuts.
I have a feeling that the poor ride quality may be related to the fact that it has six year old tires on it A new set of Pilot Sport 4S tires is on the way.
And I'd say that the hardest part about replacing the door struts is finding all of the screws holding the fender liner on. I'd also advise removing the front under tray as it makes putting the fender liner back on much easier (I didn't, and it took way longer than expected to work it back into place).
I have a suspicion that the washer fluid reservoir is leaking
This may be user error. It turns out that unlike all other cars I've driven in the last 20 years, pulling back on the wiper stalk doesn't turn the washer on. Pushing the button on the end of the stalk does the job though
i found that the OEM brake pads from Pagid create an excessive amount of dust. in ten miles of city driving, after completely cleaning the wheels i could get a nice black coating on my finger by rubbing my finger along it. so i bought new pads. the 2007 car had 11,000 miles on it when i acquired it a few months ago and the pads were practically new. i have no need for any kind of 'performance' pad so i searched for some that would simply fit. i ended up with semi-metallic ones. that pretty much cured the dust problem completely, i can run them for a hundreds of miles now with little dust at all. just like every other car i've ever owned. there is a caveat though and if a person is of a certain type they will NOT be willing to make the compromise that i did. that being.... because the wear indicator mounts to the pad and the wear indicator wire attaches to the calipers asymmetrically, the pads cannot be identical from right to left. the OEM pads comply, the pads that i bought do not. meaning... that the wear indicator wire on one side or the other is not in the wire holder cast into the caliper for that purpose. i have decided that it makes no difference to me. other might disagree.
oh... and beware the thermostat. early cars are prone to having ones that fail. in my case it was not noticeable unless i drove at highway speeds in sub 40 degree weather. apparently the previous owner never did, or perhaps, it simply failed after 13 years.
about *old tires.... don't keep them around. they may be out of round and create vibration at speed regardless if they are in balance or not, they WILL be hard and create an uncomfortable and noisy ride. when i had some of those symptoms i replaced the front ones but not the backs because i was led to believe the symptoms did not reflect a balance problem in the rear. the problem persisted until i replaced the rears too.
*old tires, in my case, are defined as the original tires that came with the car. YMMV.
I put Hawk HPS brake pads on my Porsches, and they had significantly less dust than OEM. Good point on the wear sensor also - that's something I'd want to keep in mind.Given I don't know when the brakes were last done, I may just go ahead and do that next.
On the tires, I actually replaced them with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S all around today. Good news - I have new tires. Bad news, the passenger front wheel is out of round so was a pain to balance - no strange behavior when driving though. That may also explain why I couldn't get it off to replace the side marker. Hopefully it's a bit more loosened up now
At some point when I've taken care of as much as I can myself I'll need to do a 'bring it up to date' service, as I don't have all the exact details of what's been done in the last few years. I reached out to Aston Martin Dallas to see if they could provide any more detail of what they did when they serviced it a few thousand miles ago (as per the CarFax report), but they haven't responded.
Originally Posted by 61mga
i found that the OEM brake pads from Pagid create an excessive amount of dust. in ten miles of city driving, after completely cleaning the wheels i could get a nice black coating on my finger by rubbing my finger along it. so i bought new pads. the 2007 car had 11,000 miles on it when i acquired it a few months ago and the pads were practically new. i have no need for any kind of 'performance' pad so i searched for some that would simply fit. i ended up with semi-metallic ones. that pretty much cured the dust problem completely, i can run them for a hundreds of miles now with little dust at all. just like every other car i've ever owned. there is a caveat though and if a person is of a certain type they will NOT be willing to make the compromise that i did. that being.... because the wear indicator mounts to the pad and the wear indicator wire attaches to the calipers asymmetrically, the pads cannot be identical from right to left. the OEM pads comply to the requirement, the pads that i bought do not. meaning... that the wear indicator wire on one side or the other is not in the wire holder cast into the caliper for that purpose. i have decided that it makes no difference to me. other might disagree.
oh... and beware the thermostat. early cars are prone to having ones that fail. in my case it was not noticeable unless i drove at highway speeds in sub 40 degree weather. apparently the previous owner never did, or perhaps, it simply failed after 13 years.
about *old tires.... don't keep them around. they may be out of round and create vibration at speed regardless if they are in balance or not, they WILL be hard and create an uncomfortable and noisy ride. when i had some of those symptoms i replaced the front ones but not the backs because i was led to believe the symptoms did not reflect a balance problem in the rear. the problem persisted until i replaced the rears too.
*old tires, in my case, are defined as the original tires that came with the car. YMMV.
Now we're getting to less critical issues😁 The car has a clear bra of unknown origin covering the the front quarter. The problem is that itt pretty badly scratched up - almost like someone decided to test it🙄 At least I'm hoping that the scratches haven't made their way through to the paint.
The question is, does it make sense to try to remove this on a 13 year old car and replace it? I can live with a few scratches if the alternative is a partial respray + the cost of new wrap installation. If anyone out
there has been in a similar situation I'm interested in your experiences.
I just replaced all the PPF on my 2006 DB9. The old stuff was already on when I bought the car 8+ years ago (partial hood, front bumper, mirrors, sills, door handles). After >13 years, it had yellowed and there were lots of dings in the film.
Cost a bit to have it removed, but it all came off without any damage. Xpel Ultimate went back on in all the same places. Looks great now.
Now we're getting to less critical issues😁 The car has a clear bra of unknown origin covering the the front quarter. The problem is that itt pretty badly scratched up - almost like someone decided to test it🙄 At least I'm hoping that the scratches haven't made their way through to the paint.
The question is, does it make sense to try to remove this on a 13 year old car and replace it? I can live with a few scratches if the alternative is a partial respray + the cost of new wrap installation. If anyone out there has been in a similar situation I'm interested in your experiences.
The scratches you mention is actually a failure of the film's top layer. Once the film has degraded to that point, it can be a massive pain to remove as it often comes off in many pieces, and the adhesive layer can remain after the top layer has been removed. I had this happen to my wife's '05 C230k. Not fun, however I did ultimately remove everything and the paint was flawless. I'd recommend you contact someone familiar with the removal process, and make sure they use steam. Have new film installed afterwards, and you're good to go for another 8 years.
A new set of Pilot Sport 4S tires is on the way.
