Back at it with another timelapse tutorial on how to install Springs on 2013 V8 Vantage. Youtube link below along with some step by step instructions with pics. Complete the task at your own risk.

Decided to pull the trigger on Wheels and Suspension. Ended up going with the H&R Progressive Lowering Springs and Apex Racing EC-7 Matte Bronze Wheels.

Tools Needed
Front Suspension
- 21mm for the Lug Nuts
- 21mm Deep Socket /18mm wrench Lower Control Arm to Lower Strut
- 15mm wrench / 18mm wrench Upper Control Arm (2 Bolts)
- T50 for Cross Bar/Brace
- 13mm deep socket for the Top Strut Nuts
* For the control arm bolts, ratchet on the nut not the bolt face.

Rear Suspension
- 21mm deep socket for Lower Strut to Lower Control Arm
- 18mm/15mm Tow Control Arm
- 13mm wrench Ebrake Caliper Bolts (2 Bolts)
- 15mm Strut Brace to Chasis (4 bolts)
- 8mm ECU Assembly Housing (Passenger Side Only if Needed)
- 10mm for fuel tube bracket (Driver side only)

General
- 2 Adjustable Wrenches for top hat removal
- Spring Compressor
- Various Extensions
- Wobble Joints
- Torque Wrench

** When reassembling the suspension components, tighten but do not torque. There is a disclaimer in the workshop manual that states that you need torque the suspension components when the car is at its normal ride height so that you do not wear the bushings out. To accomplish this, I used a jack to raise the suspension to where I believed was a normal ride height.


1) Remove Wheels and Raise Car up


2) Remove Lower Strut to Lower Control Arm Bolt using 21mm Deep Socket (turn at the nut side not bolt face)


3) Removed the 2 bolts that connect the upper control arm using an 18mm and 15mm wrench.



4) Remove ABS line that runs along upper control arm


5) Remove Brake Sensor wire that runs along the upper control arm


6) Remove Upper crossbar/brace using T50
7) Remove 3 bolts on upper strut brace using 13mm deep socket.


8) Remove Strut and Compress Spring


9) Using a 19mm wrench and another adjustable or 2 adjustable wrenches, remove the top hat of the suspension. Hold one locked while turning the nut.


10) Replace Spring


11) Reinstall in reverse and torque to spec. (Read the disclaimer above about torque at ride height)

12) Remove Rear Wheels

13) Remove LHS and RHS liner using T30 and Phillips Screw Driver

14) Remove Lower Strut to Lower Control Arm Bolt using 21 mm Deep Socket


15) Remove E Brake Caliper Bolts (2 bolts) using 13 mm socket and wrench (THIS F***ING SUCK) Go slow and do not snap. They are extremely hard to remove for some reason.

16) Disconnect ABS line from the tow control arm and disconnect to the bracket.
17) Remove the Tow Control Arm Nut using a 15mm/18mm wrench


18) Remove ECU Assembly Housing (4 bolts) using 8mm. (TIP: This allows you to push the strut into this hole where the housing is located to get more room to pivot out of the wheel arch) Only needed on the passenger side.


19) Remove Struct Bracket to Chassis (4 bolts) using 15 mm socket

20) Remove Strut from wheel arch and remove top 3 nuts using 13mm deep socket

21) Compress Spring

22) Remove top hat using 19mm and an adjustable wrench or 2 adjustable wrenches.

23) Remove Spring and install new spring and install in reverse order. Torque to spec once the suspension is a normal ride height.

24) On the driver side, there is a 10mm bolt that holds the fuel neck bracket and a breather hose on the liner.

25) Get an alignment

*Some Tips
- Remove the ECU housing on the passenger side to give you more clearance to pull the strut out
- I removed the strut bracket on the driver side inside the wheel arch to pull the strut and spring out and installed it inside the wheel arch.
- If your e brake caliper bolts don't come out, just remove the Torx bolts in the front, separate the two housings, wind the piston back and you're done (Biggest PITA)
- Driver side liner has a breather hose, don't pull until it is detached.
- Torque bolts to spec only after you have it at normal ride height so that it doesnt destroy your bushings.

 

Thanks, excellent work!

 

Thank you again Andrew for yet another great tutorial on your stellar upgrades.

Its quality Aston owners like yourself that help keep the brand enthusiasm going.

 

Stunning.

 

Great video as always. You deserve a lot of credit, it can't be easy detailing everything on video. The wheels on the car look wonderful,. Can you share the offsets on the wheels. Ive looked on here, and offsets are all over the place.

 

Thank you hope this helps!

Thank you for the kind words Rob! Hope to catch up soon with you.

Thank you!

Thanks for the kind words. I bought Apex EC-7 Forged Wheels. The fronts are 19x10 et40 and rears are 19x11 et52. Im running HUF TPMS sensors which calibrate within 10 miles of driving to your system. The tires are P4S and running 265 in the front and 305 in the rear. I will say I am having alignment issues at the moment where the shop is having trouble aligning the car. They think they have it figured it out and should get back to me on Monday

 

why you chose H&R vs VAP spring?

 

They were given to me by another Aston Owner friend. Originally, I would not go with springs at all and the plan was to install KWV3s. I decided I would give this a try first and see how I like it and then replace it with the KWs

 

Thank you. Would love to lower mine just a bit, probably not as much as yours. Unfortunately my drive way is on an incline and the front splitter clears by mm's when backing out onto the street. So will leave well enough alone. Best of luck with the alignment.