Anyone using an oil drain valve?
Anyone using an oil drain valve?
I always change my own engine oil in my '06 DB9 and consequently have done it many times, but sometimes an oil change doesn't correspond with a need to remove the front undertray for any other reason. I will confess that I have, once or twice, drained the oil through the access hole without removing the shield and I've been reasonably successful in avoiding a mess. But I know that I'm risking it, and many owners on the forums have talked about getting their car back after a service and finding oil on the tray.
I'm thinking of installing an oil drain valve to replace the OEM plug with my next change. I've looked at examples by EZ, Fumoto, and ValvoMax online, and I'm particularly interested in the ValvoMax product. Of course, I want to ensure that it doesn't pose an impact risk and that the valve lock is secure. I also want to make sure I can open and close it easily through the hole in the tray, and that I can push a short drain tube onto the outlet when I'm doing a change.
Has anyone installed an oil drain valve in a 12-cylinder AM, and if so, what is your experience? Thanks!
I'm thinking of installing an oil drain valve to replace the OEM plug with my next change. I've looked at examples by EZ, Fumoto, and ValvoMax online, and I'm particularly interested in the ValvoMax product. Of course, I want to ensure that it doesn't pose an impact risk and that the valve lock is secure. I also want to make sure I can open and close it easily through the hole in the tray, and that I can push a short drain tube onto the outlet when I'm doing a change.
Has anyone installed an oil drain valve in a 12-cylinder AM, and if so, what is your experience? Thanks!
Last edited by zuman; Nov 23, 2022 at 04:03 PM.
I do not have an oil drain valve on the Vantage, but had an FAA approved one on my aircraft.
If they can stay closed on an aircraft where the the failure of said device could truly ruin your day, I think having one or more on your DB9 could work. They hang down a bit however, so you would have to measure each drainage point and see if it interferes with anything. You may consider using an anti-seize lubricant so that you will have less of an issue if you decide to remove the valve in the future.
If you move forward with this, please report back with pictures.
If they can stay closed on an aircraft where the the failure of said device could truly ruin your day, I think having one or more on your DB9 could work. They hang down a bit however, so you would have to measure each drainage point and see if it interferes with anything. You may consider using an anti-seize lubricant so that you will have less of an issue if you decide to remove the valve in the future.
If you move forward with this, please report back with pictures.
Not sure I understand why... I've seen these on high use vehicles like OTR trucks and construction equipment... high volume high use
Removing the undertray during a service is a great way to just visually look at any other potential issues that could be going on.
Also most plugs are magnetized to collect any potential metal engine particulates,etc.
Seems like a 'fix' for a non-problem.
Removing the undertray during a service is a great way to just visually look at any other potential issues that could be going on.
Also most plugs are magnetized to collect any potential metal engine particulates,etc.
Seems like a 'fix' for a non-problem.
Not sure I understand why... I've seen these on high use vehicles like OTR trucks and construction equipment... high volume high use
Removing the undertray during a service is a great way to just visually look at any other potential issues that could be going on.
Also most plugs are magnetized to collect any potential metal engine particulates,etc.
Seems like a 'fix' for a non-problem.
Removing the undertray during a service is a great way to just visually look at any other potential issues that could be going on.
Also most plugs are magnetized to collect any potential metal engine particulates,etc.
Seems like a 'fix' for a non-problem.
- The OEM drain plug is not magnetic
- As I implied, I may have had the shield off for something else not long before or will be taking it off soon after.
- As I only change oil once a year and don't have a lift, it's a challenge for me to get the plug unscrewed without at least some oil going where I don't want it to (up my arm, for example...).
- I may be able to drain it while it's hotter with a valve.
- Being able to direct waste oil into a pan via a hose might be useful.
- I've spent $40 on far more useless things in the past.
I'd say go for it. Changing the oil on my vantage is easy but on a db9 is much more laborious. Anything you can do to make your maintenance less of a hassle while not impacting safety or performance is perfectly acceptable imho.
I ended up buying a ValvoMax drain valve. I'm reasonably sure that it'll be recessed above the drain hole in the undertray as the entire valve, including screw-on cap and cap tether mount, protrudes just about 1-3/16" below the oil pan, but I won't know for certain until I get the car up on my QuickJack ramps.
I hope to change my oil before the New Year and I'll report back with photos. I really like how the ValvoMax isn't operated by a lever, but by screwing on the supplied drain hose, which opens the valve. That feature, together with the "fail-safe" screw cap, is pretty confidence-inspiring. It appears to be very well made (in the USA).
I hope to change my oil before the New Year and I'll report back with photos. I really like how the ValvoMax isn't operated by a lever, but by screwing on the supplied drain hose, which opens the valve. That feature, together with the "fail-safe" screw cap, is pretty confidence-inspiring. It appears to be very well made (in the USA).
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I don't mind the drain plug because removing the shield isn't a big deal on a lift, but I am in awe of the placement of the oil filter and the drama associated with replacing it. I thought long and hard about relocating it, but could never come up with a better location. Anyone done a remote mount?
I'm with Don. It's a pain to have to remove a throttle body and there's always a little bit of spillage, but my breakthrough was using oil filter pliers to break the filter loose. I think I tried every filter wrench made with no luck, but I've now gotten very comfortable with my Channellock pliers (tighten by hand/loosen with oil filter pliers). Now 4884, if anyone could come up with a remote mount, it's you!
I'm with Don. It's a pain to have to remove a throttle body and there's always a little bit of spillage, but my breakthrough was using oil filter pliers to break the filter loose. I think I tried every filter wrench made with no luck, but I've now gotten very comfortable with my Channellock pliers (tighten by hand/loosen with oil filter pliers). Now 4884, if anyone could come up with a remote mount, it's you!
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