Hello all,
i just finished the service, i could finally changed the 2 air filters, i had to remove the under tray, even twice cause i forgot one screw...anyway. I well cleaned my air box and update each seals, and filters.+
i have a question underneath the air box cover there is a white plug in plastic kind of floating there, not really tight etc...i am wandering why all these efforts to make the air box so tight for air leaks if the air can get it through this white plastic plug, it seems like a screw shape but its in plastic. do you know what i am talking about, should it be right on top and not floating, then i will need to order new ones, its a plug that at the end there is 2 sections you can spread to make it hold better but it hasnt work well for me, it seems its floating there if you pull it will goes out,,,whats the deal with these white plugs? thanks all. i should have taken a picture. i did like 5 small videos.
any response thnaks a lot in advance....it took me 5 hours.

i put back the 7th screw of each airbox but i was thinking not doing so, when i see the air can enter from this plug i am talking i think i could have avoid screwing back the 7th screw so next time i can do it without removing the undertray.....what do you guys think?

Hood struts change
Rear brake pads change
Oil and filter change
Pollen filter change
Brake bleeding fluids
Air filters & seals change

sorry i m using his video images to show you which plug it is, i think it should be on top not loose as mine....

 

That white plug is supposed to be a one-way valve to let water out in the case it's drawn in through the grill intake, but not let it in if you drive through a deep puddle. The only part of the airbox that's truly important to be airtight is the filter to airbox neck and the airbox neck to the MAF tube. All the rest is dirty air anyway.

I've heard that some have drilled an access hole in the undertray to access the obscured screws in the airbox. There are a couple from the factory in mine that reach other screws, but none for the airbox. I'm usually changing the oil when I do the air filters anyway so it's not a big issue.

 

Yes my tube and filter are well set up thank you. I had to redo it the maf tube was pinched.


"There are a couple from the factory in mine that reach other screws"

Sorry I didn't understood this .

Thanks for the plug infos....mine is too loose on one side ...so it's not good to stick it back then I will see a next time. Thank you.

Very glad I could finish it. i will clean the air maf sensor next time and take care of this plug.

yes i am hesitating to drill holes and i could, i think i could avoid screwing the 7th screw, as i could see some air may come in from this plug, it will make no difference not screwing back the 7th screw....its dangerous with my floor that's why.

 

I was trying to say that there are a few holes in the undertray near the airbox that allow access for other screws, but none near the airbox to allow access for the airbox screws. I've heard that some people have drilled additional holes to make airbox access easier. I'm not really interested in doing that on my car, but it's certainly an option if you think you'll ever change the air filters without removing the undertray.

Congratulations on finishing the service! The first one feels like a pretty huge accomplishment!

 

The valves are supposed to be loose and floating. If you secure them to seal them up and drive in the rain you'll fill the airbox with water and water will be ingested into the engine, destroying it. If you leave the valves out and drive through water deep enough to dip the airbox into the water, you may suck water into the airbox through the hole. Doesn't matter if you don't plan on driving in the rain, you should address the valves so they serve their correct function.

 

yes sure its lacking on mine, i think the airbox were placed a bit inclined or off, and its not that they have moved, its done like that, from what you are saying i could skip the 7th screw. no big deal then if a bit of air get in there and i don't even think it will....

its good then to have these valves for rain, i didnt want set another filter for this reason its important, cause you never know when the rain will trapped you....
thanks a lot!

 

you have so much holes underneath for the mouses and rats to get in but no space to unscrew the air filter. i will have prefer to see some grille myself, i got some rodent damage and it was well repaired but never anymore, i am freaking just opening the garage where i live, but you know some climb from the streets into your car and can make it home without dying...watch out...they get in by the inner wheel arch and underneath in my case, it was my fault i left soem almonds in the garage, listen, they climbed inside with the almonds !!! (sure ahve enough room with the holes, i was saying, its easier for them to climb inside than us to seat) and did a like a fiesta there....soemone told me its good there was almonds to eat, but its due to them that they were attracted inside, so no more fertiliser, no more food or even shipping box they like to eat and they sings like birds so you are confused and never suspect them, i got traps with poison but well protected so my cats never eat that, inside tubes.

i gave 1 cm with the wrench to tight my oil filter cause my hands are small and i have no grip or strength over this filter.
my air filters took off so easily i wander if i should not buy the blue print next if they are tighter...

 

yes really, i think in reality i only like difficult things to do, and its enough....you feel good after, and if you don't under estimate the dificulty, you can do it. the thing is each model has his specific tool, on the db9 its much easier to reach the airbox, me since i could remove the oil filter without mess but anyway, today removing twice the under tray , turns it into soemthing so easy that i feel perfect doing it again, just some screws clips around the triangle liner air box aera, difficult to screw backs, otheriwse all my undertray screws went super well. i have ordered news one and clips in case.
will do it every year for the oil and filter and 2-3 years for the air filters, unless i quit using this 7th screw soon then i can do air filter each year too, i like it but in the same time i feel i could quickly be lost at the repair and will need serious help. i still dont feel very good not being able to call the dealer at 1 hour for the run around last time...i got this foxwell so i can get some doces if needed later on to get some infos. thank you all. i reach quickjack and they didn't respond anyway i need to redo my floor and i think it be the best to get a good lift.


4G43-16C826-AB Hood struts change oem parts
AP1166 R4S Rear brake pads change Porterfield
4G43-9601-AB-PK Air filter change oem parts
4G43-9C664-AB Air filter boxes seals x 2 oem parts
Mobil 1 0W40 11 liters of oil changed
4G43-04-10205 Sump plug new oem parts
AG43-6714-AA Oil filter oem parts
CD33-9E936-AA Throttle o ring oem parts
4G43-13ZE1-AA-PK Pollen filter change oem parts
Motul rbf 600 dot4 Brake bleeding fluids oem parts 1,25 liter updated
88 AH Varta Battery 2024 change
6G33-FA0115-AB-PK / 703196-PK Under tray screws changed updated added/ missing oem parts
CR 2032 Duracell battery key fog changed

Lubrification doors seals, hood and trunk using autoglym rubber
Leather cleaning & treatment, seats, console and leather aera using Zaino
Cleaning/brushing of the engine compartment, using water, soap and autoglym rubber
Cleaning of the wheels & brake dust
Cleaning aera around the door panels & locking aera, around & under hood and trunk
Lubricating adjusting gas filler cap

total 18 hours

 

For my own Rapide, I simply removed those big air boxes all together. I removed the "horn" from each box, fashioned a secure mount point utilizing the original components and fitted the filters. Works fantastically over the past 10k miles I've put on it since the mid.. I've been in torrential rain with standing water and zero issues with risk of ingress.. interesting shift in the exhaust tone as well..

 

thanks for the infos, one day i bought this kit to open the valves and on my car it didnt fit it well at all, i am too worry to be trapped under the rain to do that so i will stick to the original settings.
i received my oak beam and will bring it to the carpenter to be cut and the welder to be reinforced and i will go under the car to remove the tray each time, it should be ok for me now. i could as well removed the 7th screw of the air box so i don't have to remove the tray....which i will probably do one day if i am geting too old or too tired doing it.
with this beam i may end up with 29 cm clearance on the front and 20 cm around the end of tray only. i finally received my f18 varta battery only 31,5 cm long but it should be ok. and i got my motor coolant to be changed soon when i got the beam ready to work.
the beam will be 15 cm of height oin the front, and if i do some rear ones it be 12 cm of height in the rear only, as the car lift like this the from wheel higher than the rear and i dont feel lifting it more on one side that this, 12 cm for rear wheel and 15 cm from wheels, i will add the rubber to block the wheels of course.
the beam is maybe 100 lbs weight....

 

thanks for sharing, AUVDRSN ( i posted another response to your post but upon clicking it says mod need to approve my post and nothing came up....) here is an image of my new battery, the positive of the battery is like 1-2 mm away from the metal bracket, is it ok for you, this battery is 3 cm less long then the previous, it wasn't so tight inside after tighting all the screw so i put a piece of textile underneath the bottom bracket who hold down the battery, now its better, but i wander if the positive battery connector so close from the bracket is good? it has always been like this. on the image the top bracket is not there yet. Should i put some rubber in between the battery clamp and the metal bracket so they never in contact?