lowing the factory settings for the air ride suspension
#1
lowing the factory settings for the air ride suspension
Hey guys
I am thinking about getting my auto guy to change the factory setting parameters for the air ride. I am attempting to lower my car and want to change the current sport/comfort setting by .5-1".
Has anyone encountered issues doing this? ie error lights etc
I am thinking about getting my auto guy to change the factory setting parameters for the air ride. I am attempting to lower my car and want to change the current sport/comfort setting by .5-1".
Has anyone encountered issues doing this? ie error lights etc
#2
I lowered mine by .5" all around and didn't experience any problems whatsoever. It is worth noting that I lowered it using the VAS5054A computer (not the lowering links). Also, it is important to use very small increments in changing the ride height. If you try to do it all at once, the computer may not accept the new values.
#3
I cheated and fitted lowering links. I dropped it by an inch, the same as the Supersport and I have had no problems whatsoever.
Remember that you can still raise the ride height with the centre console control for any rough ground/speed ramps if necessary.
They definitely look better that bit lower.
Les.
Remember that you can still raise the ride height with the centre console control for any rough ground/speed ramps if necessary.
They definitely look better that bit lower.
Les.
#4
I lowered mine by .5" all around and didn't experience any problems whatsoever. It is worth noting that I lowered it using the VAS5054A computer (not the lowering links). Also, it is important to use very small increments in changing the ride height. If you try to do it all at once, the computer may not accept the new values.
#5
The reason I used the computer as opposed to the lowering links is that I felt it was a much simpler process and easily reversible (not to mention: less expensive ). It is a fairly intuitive procedure. Everything is in there, the trick is finding where it is. For those of us on this side of the pond, the nomenclature is a bit daunting. The only drama was discovering that you have to work incrementally on each corner (rather than drop each corner the full amount all at once). I couldn't get the VAS 5054A computer to accept large values and thought I had screwed up. It helps to have someone watch and measure the ride height as it changes as the movement can be fairly subtle. Recognize that you will be cheating the car into thinking that your new values represent the standard ride height. The benefit is that all of your dash-controlled values are derivatives of the "standard" ride height. Also, speed-related automatic lowering values also work properly.
#6
Hi Frank,
The reason I used the computer as opposed to the lowering links is that I felt it was a much simpler process and easily reversible (not to mention: less expensive ). It is a fairly intuitive procedure. Everything is in there, the trick is finding where it is. For those of us on this side of the pond, the nomenclature is a bit daunting. The only drama was discovering that you have to work incrementally on each corner (rather than drop each corner the full amount all at once). I couldn't get the VAS 5054A computer to accept large values and thought I had screwed up. It helps to have someone watch and measure the ride height as it changes as the movement can be fairly subtle. Recognize that you will be cheating the car into thinking that your new values represent the standard ride height. The benefit is that all of your dash-controlled values are derivatives of the "standard" ride height. Also, speed-related automatic lowering values also work properly.
The reason I used the computer as opposed to the lowering links is that I felt it was a much simpler process and easily reversible (not to mention: less expensive ). It is a fairly intuitive procedure. Everything is in there, the trick is finding where it is. For those of us on this side of the pond, the nomenclature is a bit daunting. The only drama was discovering that you have to work incrementally on each corner (rather than drop each corner the full amount all at once). I couldn't get the VAS 5054A computer to accept large values and thought I had screwed up. It helps to have someone watch and measure the ride height as it changes as the movement can be fairly subtle. Recognize that you will be cheating the car into thinking that your new values represent the standard ride height. The benefit is that all of your dash-controlled values are derivatives of the "standard" ride height. Also, speed-related automatic lowering values also work properly.
Frank
#7
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#9
Yes, the suspension can be lowered by using the Ross-Tech VCDS, it can also be lowered by way of installing lowering links alone, or as I did, I lowered it with RT VCDS, and gave it the final touches to bring it a bit lower by installing the lowering links as pictured below, as the RT or any software can only lower the vehicle so much, as the values would be out of the allowed ranges.
You can see with my stock 19" wheels with the 275/40/R19 tires at the stock height, and then the red 20" wheels with 275/35/ZR20 tires lowered with RT, it still was a bit high for me, then the pictures with the red wheels and the lowering links installed.
STOCK 19" WHEELS, STOCK HEIGHT.
.
20" RED WHEELS LOWERED WITH ROSS-TECH.
.
20" RED WHEELS LOWERED WITH ROSS-TECH AND LOWERING LINKS
.
LOWERING LINKS
.
TIRE SIZE COMPARISON, MY TWENTIES ARE ACTUALLY A TINY BIT SMALLER THAN THE NINETEENS.
.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 01-23-2023 at 10:13 PM.
#11
@sazam ,
My responses in red.
Johnny
My responses in red.
Johnny - thank you. The bended links are for front and the stright are rear?
Yes, as shown in my pictures.
btw - can you give me any example web link to store with this links?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15167236640...mis&media=COPY
Yes, as shown in my pictures.
btw - can you give me any example web link to store with this links?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15167236640...mis&media=COPY
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