Johnny Boss,

I will do that first thing in the am.. I went to the store, they asked me what type of the 20M fuse I need? What should I say? (Remember I am a moron.)

If you are right (I am hoping for), does that mean someone had to remove those 3 fuses before? Thanks.

KCM

 

@kma

No, you are not, the store employee was just being an a**, he or she should have just shown you the standard 20 amp fuses, if you wanted mega, or mini, you would have seen the difference in size immediately, this is of course if you where at an auto parts store...

Check this out! https://a.co/d/dTF3PBb

And yes, somebody removed the fuses, most likely when the shop jumped the vehicle and blew some fuses, maybe they just failed to replace those, or they did, and they just kept popping due to an amp failure due to the improper jumping.

Johnny

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@kma ,
if you wanted to do a quick test tonight to see if the amp comes to life, you could borrow the 20 fuse just to the right in slot number 35, it is for one of the fuel pumps, as all three 20 amp fused are bridged to one hot lead inside the amp, one 20 amp fuse will power it up and play at low to moderate volume, just don't crank the volume up on one fuse installed.

Johnny

 

Johnny,

I think your estimation is most likely (always) right!

Now I remember that when the shop came to my house to jump the (starter) battery, the car started but the instruments (house battery) were all bad. So I drove the car to his shop few days later to ask him to fix the functionalities. He fixed most of them but not the radio. I think he did exactly what you said: going into the fuse boxes to look for all the shorts/burns and tried to replace them first. Probablly he couldn't keep the 3 good NAIM fuses stay in there, so he didn't put back the burned ones. (That is a bad news.)

Yes, I will try 3 new ones tomorrow and hope for the best.

Thanks.

KCM

 

Johnny my man,

No luck! I put in 3 20M fuses and they blew right away. So you are right again, the AMP is bad. Looks like the jump "fried" the AMP?

Anyway, I need to either get a replacement AMP, or I saw someone was able to fix it at a fraction of the replacemet cost? What is your suggestion? If I have to get a replacement AMP, what is the right part product number I should search for a 2009 Continental GT NAIM AMP?

Thanks for all the help. You are right on every step of the way.

KCM

 

Hello @kma ,
Well, that blows... sorry for the pun.

Being that you have a 2009, you will have a 3W0 035 466 with no prefix letter, or, you may have a revision of the 466 having a prefix letter of "D" or "K", this amp new back in November of 2019 was $4600.00 at Scuderia, now as of today they list it as $7400.00, holy *&=&, there is also a repair company in Southern California that @Randy V used for the NAIM amp repair, their website is https://factoryradioservices.com/ and their email address is factoryradioservice@gmail.com, Randy paid $385 back in December of 2019, I just spoke with the company in May of 2022, they are still repairing these Naim units, and the price at the time of discussion was $450-$500 depending on the amount of damage, parts needed, I have a spare "D" unit that I will be sending them for repair, that way, I will have a back.

You can see the thread in the link below, please pay close attention to my comments in post number 22, if you choose to purchase a used unit, be 100% sure to only get the 3W0 035 466, or 3W0 035 466 D, or 3W0 035 466 K, DO NOT get a unit with the prefix letter of E, J, L, and so on, only the 3W0 035 466 with no prefix letter, or the prefix letter of D or K will work in the 2009-2010 system, the way to tell it's the correct unit is also by the gray plug sockets on the amp itself, DO NOT buy a used amp with black sockets, been there done that, and it's a no go.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-no-sound.html

Johnny

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@kma ,
Please see my response post number 36 above, I didn't want to do an edit and add confusion.

Just to be sure it is the amp, and not the wiring from the fuse box to the amp, (I know it's a long shot, but you never know) being you have had quite a few electrical problems with the dash and others as you mentioned that the shop took care of some, I would (if reachable) unplug the 6 pin power plug at the amp itself and try 3 more fuses, just to rule out any wiring shorts, as I said, I know it's a long shot, but that is what I would do before sending out the amp, I would verify power to the amp is 100%.

The power plug is on the right side down at the bottom facing the amp.
I made my own power plug, so yours may not be blue..

Johnny

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Johnny,

Thanks for the heads up.

I contacted the "John" from the California repair shop. He responded quickly for the address to send it to. But he made it clear he is not sure 100% can be repaired. ($425) I like the fact he warns me first.

One more question for you is that if there is a way for me to check here if my AMP is truly bad before I send the amp to the repair store? I saw on some vedio, someone jsaid to check the AMP, just connect directly onto the AMP + and - ??

Thanks!

KCM

 

Hello @kma ,
As I said in post number 37, unplug the 6 pin power plug at the amp itself, then install 3 new 20 amp fuses at the fuse box, if they don't blow, then the wiring is good, and the fault is inside the amplifier, be sure to set aside the 6 pin plug as to not come in contact with any part of the vehicle's body (ground).

DO NOT ADD STRAIGHT POWER TO THE AMP'S +/- PINS WITHOUT FUSE PROTECTION !!

You will cause further damage, ask me how I know, the amp I previously posted pictures of above, was not working, so I opened it up to inspect, and I thought let me add the power while opened and test the circuit board at the power solder points for current, well, as soon as I added the power, the power transformer on the amp started smoking, and then I saw the blown mosfets, so best just to verify the power from your fuse box to the 6 pin power plug is good, then you know it is inside the amp causing the 3 fuses to blow.

I may attempt to repair my spare amp myself, now that my micro soldering has gotten better from working on ecu's and such. 😁

Johnny

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Hey, just letting you know I had the same issues with my 2008 including the message when nothing works. The first time my stereo and other functions quit working it lasted about a week. One day it all magically start working. Then it stopped working for over a month and thought the amp had to be fried. It came back and noticed it did when I moved my steering wheel. My 2008 doesn’t have the three fuses in the LH boot just like KDM’s (name?) you’re helping here. Everything has been working now for over 6 months without issues. Just letting you know that if things seem bizarre with certain cars that you should remember, there might be something within the steering wheel area. I locked my steering wheel and have never moved it again. All the same problems as described but obviously wasn’t the amp bc it came back from the dead. Never changed any fuses or batteries. It literally just started working again on its own.