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Preface: Last year, I had my front passenger side air strut go bad and I replaced it with an RMT air strut. After working perfectly find for approx. 11 months, the entire front suspension dropped last week (11/6) while pulling into my driveway. Luckily, the splash shields saved the car from fully bottoming out. After diagnostics (pointing to RH air strut) and physically inspecting, I discovered that the RMT air strut had blown out (see attached) and the front upper control arm had a damaged bushing (which I feel was a result of the traumatic drop). So, after this discovery, I went ahead and ordered Arnott's new generation struts (https://www.arnottindustries.com/as-3127-new-front-right-eibach-air-strut-03-19-bentley-continental-gt-flying-spur-03-06-volkswagen-phaeton-d1]AS-3127/https://www.arnottindustries.com/as-3128-new-front-left-eibach-air-strut-03-19-bentley-continental-gt-flying-spur-03-06-volkswagen-phaeton-d1]3128 along with brand new upper control arms (upper and lower) for both sides on Monday (11/9). While I awaited the delivery of these struts, I noticed that all of the sudden, the car was not mainiting its charge over a 12 hour period...I even tried to put it on a trickle charger for over 2 days with no luck. Voltage was showing between 10.5V and 10.4V. Thinking it might have to do with all the faults caused by the drop, I went ahead and replaced the struts/control arms yesterday (11/13).
After this, I got myself a https://no.co/gb70]Noco GB70 and was able to jump start the car to let the compressor fill the new air struts. I let the car run for a few mins after jump starting and the air struts reached their new regular height no problem. This is where things get funny, thinking I was all set, I started to drive around the neighborhood to let all of the error codes reset but the front suspension dropped again on the first turn. I could literally hear the air escaping. So I park the car with steering wheel fully straight and the level came back to normal (with the car still running). Then I ran diagnostics and a lot of system components started to complain battery voltage...specifically Address 24 for Level Control stating 01598 - Drive Battery Voltage (002 - lower limit exceeded). After this I let the car sit running for another 30mins and then took out for a drive again. This time, no issues. So, after driving for approx. 10mins, I brought the car back and turned it off only to test if I could turn it back on...and I couldn't.
So, my question to you guys is: Do you believe that the original cause for the suspension dropping could've been the battery all along or something else? I did see that there are level sensors on either side of the front suspension, are these known to cause severe problems like this where the suspension all of the sudden gives up?
The car was purchased brand new in 2015 and has been factory serviced every year since then. I am still trying to locate my records to see if the batteries were ever changed. As of the right now, it has the following 2 batteries:
I have a 2010 supersport w 15k Miles put rmt for front suspension literally blew out (less than 7weeks) while driving (very dangerous) personally I think RMT is terrible quality..I switched to arnott and zero issues.i lost a lot of $$ on labor etc and rmt did not help in any way. Anyway don’t buy rmt brand..complete garbage
Wow! and here I thought I was the only one. Image attached below. Point of failure seems to be around the same location on both of our struts. Now, couple that with RMT's horrible customer service! From my personal experience with them, I think they're running a very shady operation and it's only a matter of time until the law catches up with them. I'm not sure if they already know this but their shoddy product is going to get someone killed sooner or later! I was fortunate enough to be pulling into my driveway at minimal speed when the suspension gave up. Imagine that happening at 70-80mph?!?!
[QUOTE=pupdogg;4857722]Wow! and here I thought I was the only one. Image attached below. Point of failure seems to be around the same location on both of our struts. Now, couple that with RMT's horrible customer service! From my personal experience with them, I think they're running a very shady operation and it's only a matter of time until the law catches up with them. I'm not sure if they already know this but their shoddy product is going to get someone killed sooner or later! I was fortunate enough to be pulling into my driveway at minimal speed when the suspension gave up. Imagine that happening at 70-80mph?!?!
Yes totally agree very dangerous..I was actually driving around 50mph when it popped..was unreal..had to pull over immediatly..then when I call them they are like ohh no prob we will send out a new one! I’m like aren’t you the least bit worried why and what happened?? Of course I did not take up their offer of a new one..I asked for a refund. They are a complete joke of a company..outright dangerous
Wow! and here I thought I was the only one. Image attached below. Point of failure seems to be around the same location on both of our struts. Now, couple that with RMT's horrible customer service! From my personal experience with them, I think they're running a very shady operation and it's only a matter of time until the law catches up with them. I'm not sure if they already know this but their shoddy product is going to get someone killed sooner or later! I was fortunate enough to be pulling into my driveway at minimal speed when the suspension gave up. Imagine that happening at 70-80mph?!?!
Yes totally agree very dangerous..I was actually driving around 50mph when it popped..was unreal..had to pull over immediatly..then when I call them they are like ohh no prob we will send out a new one! I’m like aren’t you the least bit worried why and what happened?? Of course I did not take up their offer of a new one..I asked for a refund. They are a complete joke of a company..outright dangerous
Its a few threads on here about them including mines. They tried to play the long game with me on my refund so I disputed it with my ccc and they reversed it quick. Sold me a pard that would fit BUT wasn’t rated for the car (cv axle). With the help of this board I was told that the thickness wasn’t the same because we have twin turbo and the Audi does not.
Preface: Last year, I had my front passenger side air strut go bad and I replaced it with an RMT air strut. After working perfectly find for approx. 11 months, the entire front suspension dropped last week (11/6) while pulling into my driveway. Luckily, the splash shields saved the car from fully bottoming out. After diagnostics (pointing to RH air strut) and physically inspecting, I discovered that the RMT air strut had blown out (see attached) and the front upper control arm had a damaged bushing (which I feel was a result of the traumatic drop). So, after this discovery, I went ahead and ordered Arnott's new generation struts (https://www.arnottindustries.com/as-...haeton-d1]3128 along with brand new upper control arms (upper and lower) for both sides on Monday (11/9). While I awaited the delivery of these struts, I noticed that all of the sudden, the car was not mainiting its charge over a 12 hour period...I even tried to put it on a trickle charger for over 2 days with no luck. Voltage was showing between 10.5V and 10.4V. Thinking it might have to do with all the faults caused by the drop, I went ahead and replaced the struts/control arms yesterday (11/13).
After this, I got myself a https://no.co/gb70]Noco GB70 and was able to jump start the car to let the compressor fill the new air struts. I let the car run for a few mins after jump starting and the air struts reached their new regular height no problem. This is where things get funny, thinking I was all set, I started to drive around the neighborhood to let all of the error codes reset but the front suspension dropped again on the first turn. I could literally hear the air escaping. So I park the car with steering wheel fully straight and the level came back to normal (with the car still running). Then I ran diagnostics and a lot of system components started to complain battery voltage...specifically Address 24 for Level Control stating 01598 - Drive Battery Voltage (002 - lower limit exceeded). After this I let the car sit running for another 30mins and then took out for a drive again. This time, no issues. So, after driving for approx. 10mins, I brought the car back and turned it off only to test if I could turn it back on...and I couldn't.
So, my question to you guys is: Do you believe that the original cause for the suspension dropping could've been the battery all along or something else? I did see that there are level sensors on either side of the front suspension, are these known to cause severe problems like this where the suspension all of the sudden gives up?
The car was purchased brand new in 2015 and has been factory serviced every year since then. I am still trying to locate my records to see if the batteries were ever changed. As of the right now, it has the following 2 batteries:
interested to know if you identify what is causing the battery draw you describe. I have similar problem. Drawing 8 amps when at rest in garage. My mechanic has speculated it may be a GPS tracking anti-theft system hidden in the car whose self contained battery has gone bad and will not accept a charge. So far I have not been able to confirm that this is the problem.
interested to know if you identify what is causing the battery draw you describe. I have similar problem. Drawing 8 amps when at rest in garage. My mechanic has speculated it may be a GPS tracking anti-theft system hidden in the car whose self contained battery has gone bad and will not accept a charge. So far I have not been able to confirm that this is the problem.
An 8 amp draw is a lot. Something like that would be a fan on, light not going out, ignition on radio not shutting off... Could try pulling fuses one at a time and see if the draw goes lower. These cars always draw some aperage for stuff like the alarm system, but not as much as you are seeing. Your battery must be dead in a few hours... Alternatively, maybe your battery has an internal short or is just worn out. Try a new battery?
first: I replaced my batteries with brand new ones and
second: I discovered that the Rear Seat Entrainment system was causing my battery issues…documented here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-when-off.html I was able to get that fixed as documented on March 5, 2021
Since then, batteries have been working just fine, no issues to my recollection.
