Posting the full story of the W12 DIY replacement journey-

Hopefully coming to the home stretch of rehabbing a seized engine, extensively corroded and abandon gem back to its fullest glory. Towed the vehicle back from CA to AZ and found metal shavings in the oil pan. Lead ultimately to the engine swapping, I did not diagnose what caused the original failure, but all vacuum lines were cracked when I finally dropped the package.

This is my first engine swap and I have to give an enormous thank you to @Johnny Hotspur GT and this 6 speed online form for all the help and support along the way. Summary to follow:

-Replaced W12 engine with used 27K engine from J&J auto wrecking, no formal promotion here, but these folks were great and shipped to a private address (my home garage) and did not require a business address which was surprisingly difficult to find.
-Replaced driver instrument cluster with the cluster from the donor engine and replaced power supplies on the PCB.
-Rebuilt engine compartment vacuum lines/lines on top of the transmission etc.
-Replaced engine oil cooler lines
-Replaced both front windows and lift regulators along with driver rear regulator (all windows were not functioning)
-Replaced interior sound system speakers
-Replaced shifter dust cover
-Replaced driver door window master electrical board
-Replaced front and rear suspension with Strutmasters coil suspension (this was a tough decision, but with the cars age, made the decision to avoid air suspension problems)
-Replaced transmission torque converter
-Replaced CV boot covers (originals split and throwing oil)
-Added interior dampening material for insulation
-Lots of cleaning, painting and body work.

Posting the full journey in stages from interior out.


How:
Full disclaimer again, this is my first engine swap. I tagged and labeled every connection that had to be disconnected to drop the engine, vacuum lines etc to know how to reconnect when reinstalling. All the hardware was bagged and labeled as well to know what went where. This was my process for everything to make sure it was reassembled correctly. Once the new engine arrived, I matched all the labeled connections and tagged them on the new engine and began installing.

(Example labeling)


(Example labeling)



The Tear Down:






The windows were stuck down in the vehicle and rain/dirt accumulated inside. Removed seats and cleaned, began adding insulate.


Insulate/dampener added:



Interior seats, door panels, radio, center consul removed. Started cleaning/drying the carpets:



Tackled window regulator:




Replaced shift dust cover and cleaned PCB (a lot of sticky sap or spilled soda? had leaked into everything):



Soldered and replaced new power supplies for instrument cluster (maybe paranoid given the milage but I did not want to have to re pull the cluster if the display died, read about constant failures etc)





Opened up KESSY and dried/cleaned:



Soldered and replaced speakers:



Original driver window control master pcb showing the damaged pad that prevented the electronic gas door release. (replaced):





Added insulation/dampener to driver & passenger doors:

 

good job! can you share the links to the parts you used - eg window regulator kit, power supply job, speakers - this may help other who will need to do the same... potential other parts you will change which may be interetsting to know what to replace and from where to get it

 

@Johnny Hotspur GT these are beautiful! Where did you get them from? I clamped mine temporarily just to make sure the whistling sound and under smoke stopped (which it did). I am thinking this is probably the route I want to go.

I also had her out on a little spin around the block today to make sure the trans shifted normally (which it did) but I noticed the bottom radiator connection was leaking when I got home? I disconnected the connection and reset with the metal clamp to make sure it was fully seated, but when I re added coolant it leaked.

Do these coolant hoses have O rings inside? its fully connected and seated properly- trying to avoid removing the radiator assembly again to replace if there is a gasket or O ring or something that may be worn out.