Check engine light on, car smells bad from exhaust, slight shake on idle.
It is a 2011 flying spur speed with 74,000km around 44,000mi approx
I did a pre purchase inspection 2 months ago and everything was fine except for two codes but there was no engine light until today in the middle of the drive.
The codes
P0234:01/0-0564:001 TURBO/SUPERCHARGER OVERBOOST CONDITION - UPPER LIMIT EXCEEDED

P0544:02/0-1348:002 EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATUR SENSOR CIRCUIT - BANK 1 LOWER LIMIT NOT REACHED

As I said, drove it daily for two months without a CEL but today in the middle of the drive the light went on and stayed like that.
Since I bought it and it always had a slight vibration and some times the rpm would drop a little leading to shakiness.

 

The unsteady idle and the fault codes may well indicate a vacuum system leak, you should get a smoke test done. The bad smell from the exaust may also indicate a possible catalytic converter problem. The vacuum leak if it has one can be repaired without engine removal, some require the steering rack removal for access. You should also check your vacuum pump is working, start with the fuse and move forward from there. Unfortunately if the cat is bad that is an engine out job.

 

My idle is fine now by itself its been 4 days driving it and my idle is fine now but there is a sound of a pump running when I hit the brake but still the shaky idle went away.

 

The vacuum pump is located behind the plastic wheel arch liner, if you can hear it running every time you press your brakes i would say you more than likely do have a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd would suggest a smoke test to check, hopefully if you have one it's an easily accessible one. The plastic pipes and barbed fittings used are totally unsuitable for use in a cramped and hot environment like the engine bay hence the large numbers of problems some people have had. If you do need any repairs check out various theads there was a chap doing solid steel lines a much better option and what should have been fitted originally.
Regards Chris.

 

The sound is coming from the driver side near the wheels.

It can also be hear in the interior

 

Even my acceleration is very ****ty, around 8-9 seconds

 

Hi, That definitely sounds like the vacuum pump, i only have experience from my own car which is Right hand drive. The vacuum pump is bolted to the foot well in wheel arch area on the left hand side. You as far as I'm aware ( I'm no expert with these cars, actually an absolute beginner! every day is indeed a school day ) you should get 5 or 6 presses of the brake pedal in rapid succession with the engine at idle before the vacuum pump kicks in when the vacuum system is in good order.
If other people with more experience and knowledge have better information please feel free to shoot me down, I'm hard to offend but always willing to learn.
Regards Chris.

 

Also a know issue and easy check is the oil dipstick seals and while you're at it double check the oil filler cap and seal.
Regards Chris.

 

I replaced the line that goes to the turbo and changed all plugs and coils and changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, this costed me around $1500.

But now there is still a rough idle, cel gone but rough idle, I did a smoke test and here are the results…

Does this need engine and transmission removal???? I really hope not.

 

Hello @Sal-Man ,
You have a 2011, and on top of that, you have a Flying Spur, the FS never had the vacuum lines or solenoids over the transmission, therefore, you can do the steering rack removal procedure to gain access to the vacuum lines at the firewall along the steering rack area.

The issue is to see which vacuum circuit is having the leak, the smaller lines would be easier and move accessible, and you could even do the "By-Pass" of those lines as shown here on 6speedonline by @Stevieshutts in the thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...y-input-4.html by @adredalinejunkie , there is also the thread by @silvertonesx24 , https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...head-pipe.html , if it is one of the larger lines that run up to the rear of the intake manifold, they may be tougher to reach via steering rack removal, but I believe even they have been repaired by another member here via steering rack removal.

This is my video showing the firewall steering rack area vacuum lines, eventhough this is my 05 GT, the lines at the wall remain the same as early GT's that had additional lines and solenoids over the transmission, unlike the FS that always had these lines and solenoids at the rear of the intake manifold.



Johnny


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