Snapped Camshaft Adjuster Bolt = Engine & Brake Hydraulics Failure ?
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Snapped Camshaft Adjuster Bolt = Engine & Brake Hydraulics Failure ?
Wanted to know if anyone else had experienced this.
My family was driving our 2011 Cayenne S on the freeway the other day and they saw the following lights: PSM failure, Check Engine, Start/Stop deactivated, ABS. They were on the freeway and they pulled off and soon after the engine completely died and would not turn on.
The dealer called today to say the camshaft adjuster bolt had snapped off and as a result, the hydraulic brake system also failed? Has anyone ever had this issue?
I'm a huge fan of Porsches ('72 911, '03 996TT, '13 Cayenne) but this cayenne has seemed to be quite finicky
My family was driving our 2011 Cayenne S on the freeway the other day and they saw the following lights: PSM failure, Check Engine, Start/Stop deactivated, ABS. They were on the freeway and they pulled off and soon after the engine completely died and would not turn on.
The dealer called today to say the camshaft adjuster bolt had snapped off and as a result, the hydraulic brake system also failed? Has anyone ever had this issue?
I'm a huge fan of Porsches ('72 911, '03 996TT, '13 Cayenne) but this cayenne has seemed to be quite finicky
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You're ok
The bolts in questions are 4 relatively small aluminum screws with a steel pin inside them, 4 screws for each adjuster. For some 2011 models, the steel pin wasn't long enough, and the screws would break off right where they ended. If all screw heads can be accounted for, then you're golden. If not, or there is any sign of damage, Porsche replaced engine. There is a service campaign to address this.
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The bolts in questions are 4 relatively small aluminum screws with a steel pin inside them, 4 screws for each adjuster. For some 2011 models, the steel pin wasn't long enough, and the screws would break off right where they ended. If all screw heads can be accounted for, then you're golden. If not, or there is any sign of damage, Porsche replaced engine. There is a service campaign to address this.
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For these reason I am not considering another porsche any more !! Looks like Porsche only wants to make big profit and doesnt care any more for the good things it used to be and what made us Porsche fanatics .
I spend a lot of money with my cayenne TT (low miles) , also thanks to people in these forum , I have read a lot of stories about failures everywhere and every defect is repeated in every model every year..
I spend a lot of money with my cayenne TT (low miles) , also thanks to people in these forum , I have read a lot of stories about failures everywhere and every defect is repeated in every model every year..
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I just had the same Camshaft adjuster bolt break off on a 2011 Cayenne Turbo (76,000)
Does anyone know if there were a service bulletin on this issue?
Does anyone know if there were a service bulletin on this issue?
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Me 2
Was driving on highway at 55 last week and had exact same thing happen. Dealer said camshaft bolt came loose and bent at least two valves although they have only spent 1/2 checking out engine so far. Sounds like whole engine may need to be replaced. Luckily it is under warranty 2011 Cayenne S with 76k miles.
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Camshaft adjuster bolt broke off 2011 Cayenne S 33k miles
Hello everyone. So I had the same exact thing happen to me. I was driving on highway usual speed 80, and suddenly check engine light, PSM failure and stop start deactivation came on. Lucky I had just reached my exit, 20 miles from home. The car then was really difficult to stop brakes were tight. Towed to dealer and they told me the camshaft bolt broke off and one or two are missing. I guess I may end up with a new engine, I guess thats good right? Porsche should do a recall, it is very dangerous.
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The bolts in questions are 4 relatively small aluminum screws with a steel pin inside them, 4 screws for each adjuster. For some 2011 models, the steel pin wasn't long enough, and the screws would break off right where they ended. If all screw heads can be accounted for, then you're golden. If not, or there is any sign of damage, Porsche replaced engine. There is a service campaign to address this.
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The reality of the problem.
I would like to shed some light on the camshaft controller concerns. There was a run of the 4.8 in the Cayenne and Panamera that used aluminum bolts to hold the camshaft adjusting unit together. Unfortunately due to something beyond beyond my level of engineering knowledge, these bolts actually become loose and then sheer off. When this happens, the timing chain can no longer turn the camshaft so the camshaft stops turning. The chain stays in place and the opposite side of the engine stays in "time". The reason for the way the vehicle acts afterwards is the camshafts drive accessories on the rear of the engine. Keep in mind I am only talking about the intake cams as the exhaust is a fixed gear with no timing adjustments. So if you driver's side, bank two adjuster breaks. The high pressure fuel pump is no longer turning so the fuel pressure drops so low that most of the time the engine with just shut down and that's it. If the passenger side breaks, bank one, the vacuum pump stops turning causing a lack of power assist to the vehicle's brakes thus the hard brake pedal. Some times these vehicles keep going despite running extremely poorly. Never do this as it greatly increases your chances of damaging the head.
As far as the campaign or recall, the manufacture campaigned a good number of the affected vehicles with the WC-22 campaign. This campaign replaces both of the old style adjusters with an updated part that now has steel bolts. Here's a tip for the people with this engine. If you are concerned with what type adjuster you have, take a flashlight and open the oil fill cap and look into the cam housing. you can see the back of the bank one adjuster and see the bolts. If they are dark colored and magnetic, you have the updated parts. If not you could have the early batch and they might be a problem down the road. Thinking of the cost of a new engine it might be worth replacing as preventative maintenance. Unfortunately I believe the are over $500 each and it will require two.
As far as once they break, The bolts and pieces of bolts fall into your engine.
The first thing is to be sure and check the head for damage behind the effected sprocket. If it's okay you will then need to perform a leak-down test to ensure that none of the valves are bent. If that's okay then you must recover all of the pieces of bolts even if the oil pan has to be removed (this requires the subframe removed or the engine out). Sometimes they can all be found in the head and behind the timing cover. The trick here is to request your mechanic to show you all four bolts and bolt heads so that you can be sure he did not just leave them in the engine floating around. Once they are recovered you are good to go with the reassembly.
Something to think about is what if you just replaced the bolts yourself with some steel bolts an lock tight? BMW offers bolts for theirs because they break all the time as well. Maybe, maybe not. I haven't tried one yet.
I hope this helps.
As far as the campaign or recall, the manufacture campaigned a good number of the affected vehicles with the WC-22 campaign. This campaign replaces both of the old style adjusters with an updated part that now has steel bolts. Here's a tip for the people with this engine. If you are concerned with what type adjuster you have, take a flashlight and open the oil fill cap and look into the cam housing. you can see the back of the bank one adjuster and see the bolts. If they are dark colored and magnetic, you have the updated parts. If not you could have the early batch and they might be a problem down the road. Thinking of the cost of a new engine it might be worth replacing as preventative maintenance. Unfortunately I believe the are over $500 each and it will require two.
As far as once they break, The bolts and pieces of bolts fall into your engine.
The first thing is to be sure and check the head for damage behind the effected sprocket. If it's okay you will then need to perform a leak-down test to ensure that none of the valves are bent. If that's okay then you must recover all of the pieces of bolts even if the oil pan has to be removed (this requires the subframe removed or the engine out). Sometimes they can all be found in the head and behind the timing cover. The trick here is to request your mechanic to show you all four bolts and bolt heads so that you can be sure he did not just leave them in the engine floating around. Once they are recovered you are good to go with the reassembly.
Something to think about is what if you just replaced the bolts yourself with some steel bolts an lock tight? BMW offers bolts for theirs because they break all the time as well. Maybe, maybe not. I haven't tried one yet.
I hope this helps.
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From: charlottetown
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I would like to shed some light on the camshaft controller concerns. There was a run of the 4.8 in the Cayenne and Panamera that used aluminum bolts to hold the camshaft adjusting unit together. Unfortunately due to something beyond beyond my level of engineering knowledge, these bolts actually become loose and then sheer off. When this happens, the timing chain can no longer turn the camshaft so the camshaft stops turning. The chain stays in place and the opposite side of the engine stays in "time". The reason for the way the vehicle acts afterwards is the camshafts drive accessories on the rear of the engine. Keep in mind I am only talking about the intake cams as the exhaust is a fixed gear with no timing adjustments. So if you driver's side, bank two adjuster breaks. The high pressure fuel pump is no longer turning so the fuel pressure drops so low that most of the time the engine with just shut down and that's it. If the passenger side breaks, bank one, the vacuum pump stops turning causing a lack of power assist to the vehicle's brakes thus the hard brake pedal. Some times these vehicles keep going despite running extremely poorly. Never do this as it greatly increases your chances of damaging the head.
As far as the campaign or recall, the manufacture campaigned a good number of the affected vehicles with the WC-22 campaign. This campaign replaces both of the old style adjusters with an updated part that now has steel bolts. Here's a tip for the people with this engine. If you are concerned with what type adjuster you have, take a flashlight and open the oil fill cap and look into the cam housing. you can see the back of the bank one adjuster and see the bolts. If they are dark colored and magnetic, you have the updated parts. If not you could have the early batch and they might be a problem down the road. Thinking of the cost of a new engine it might be worth replacing as preventative maintenance. Unfortunately I believe the are over $500 each and it will require two.
As far as once they break, The bolts and pieces of bolts fall into your engine.
The first thing is to be sure and check the head for damage behind the effected sprocket. If it's okay you will then need to perform a leak-down test to ensure that none of the valves are bent. If that's okay then you must recover all of the pieces of bolts even if the oil pan has to be removed (this requires the subframe removed or the engine out). Sometimes they can all be found in the head and behind the timing cover. The trick here is to request your mechanic to show you all four bolts and bolt heads so that you can be sure he did not just leave them in the engine floating around. Once they are recovered you are good to go with the reassembly.
Something to think about is what if you just replaced the bolts yourself with some steel bolts an lock tight? BMW offers bolts for theirs because they break all the time as well. Maybe, maybe not. I haven't tried one yet.
I hope this helps.
As far as the campaign or recall, the manufacture campaigned a good number of the affected vehicles with the WC-22 campaign. This campaign replaces both of the old style adjusters with an updated part that now has steel bolts. Here's a tip for the people with this engine. If you are concerned with what type adjuster you have, take a flashlight and open the oil fill cap and look into the cam housing. you can see the back of the bank one adjuster and see the bolts. If they are dark colored and magnetic, you have the updated parts. If not you could have the early batch and they might be a problem down the road. Thinking of the cost of a new engine it might be worth replacing as preventative maintenance. Unfortunately I believe the are over $500 each and it will require two.
As far as once they break, The bolts and pieces of bolts fall into your engine.
The first thing is to be sure and check the head for damage behind the effected sprocket. If it's okay you will then need to perform a leak-down test to ensure that none of the valves are bent. If that's okay then you must recover all of the pieces of bolts even if the oil pan has to be removed (this requires the subframe removed or the engine out). Sometimes they can all be found in the head and behind the timing cover. The trick here is to request your mechanic to show you all four bolts and bolt heads so that you can be sure he did not just leave them in the engine floating around. Once they are recovered you are good to go with the reassembly.
Something to think about is what if you just replaced the bolts yourself with some steel bolts an lock tight? BMW offers bolts for theirs because they break all the time as well. Maybe, maybe not. I haven't tried one yet.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by kar; Feb 20, 2016 at 06:20 AM.