Depending on when the last time you clayed your car, this might be the problem. You must first truly clean your paint to remove embedded contaminants such as acid rain deposits, oxidation, salt from the air, etc. to have a clean surface for the polish and wax to work. Once the surface is clean and free from the above mentioned impurities, you can then apply a polish, which further cleans the paint and rejuvenates the surface, and finally wax which protects the work you've just done. And remember, as a weekly maintenance routine, apply a liquid carnauba spray such as Zymöl Field Glaze or a similar product from Meguiar's called Final Inspection. Please try and stay away from silicone rich sprays as they will damage paint in the long run. Hope this helps.

 

Has anyone tried Menzerna's line of polishes? Need feedback if you have.

 

For all you Rejex guys....I recently started using Rejex on wheels to protect. I have a client that uses it on his HREs and swears by it. Any special tips here? I've done it on a handful of clients' cars and am waiting for feedback. I basically let the Rejex sit for about 20 minutes then wipe it off.

 

Hi Moe,
Thanks for all of the tips, I have a black 996 and it really is in need of a good wax, I've used the Zymol as i have no idea or knowledge of the steps needed to get a great finish.
Would it be possible to describe the steps in using a clay bar, I'd really like to do that before I used a wax.
Thanks

 

Hi BLTZ:


Claying is very simple. First you need to find out the quality and aggressiveness of the clay you're using. There's nothing wrong with using an aggressive clay if you're going to machine polish later. However, to be safe, you want to use a fine grade as to not further scratch the finish. I use Zymol Lehm Klay II; it's not aggressive and is natural. Keep in mind, you're going to use more effort when using a mild grit of clay, but it's better in my opinion. Next, whatever manufacturer of clay you use, use their lube. I know lots of guys just use soap and water or a quick detailer type product, but I'm a firm believer in using what the manufacturer intended. I will say this though, most clay lubes don’t lubricate enough. I always add a little soap to my lube, a 1/2 teaspoon is plenty for an 8oz bottle. Next, make sure the finish is clean, by that I mean washed. Dry using waffle weave towel. You're ready to clay. Apply a generous amount of lube and start rubbing the clay back and forth. You should hear and feel the contaminants in your paint. Once it's quiet and you don't feel anything, go over the same area in the opposite direction. For example, if you started claying away and toward you, you want to finish up rubbing right and left from you. Do this to the whole car and then rinse off the car and dry again. That's it. Hope this helps. Oh, if you drop the clay, chuck it and use a new piece. That’s why I split my clay bar into three sections. And to clean the clay while you’re rubbing, just fold it into itself and you’ll the original clay color come back.

 

Ok Moe I'm sure you have gotten this question a million times before but I'll ask it again.

My flat black Cayman was near flawless at one point, but after a trip to the dealer, and their poor washing tactics, it was ridden with swirl marks. ALL OVER THE CAR. THe car is 3 months old. Before the incident, there were a couple of coats of z-5 and z2 zaino. I loved the shine, but those products did not seem to do much for the finish.

I hate seeing my car looking like this and I need to get the swirls out and the paint looking perfect again.

Could you recommend a buffer (which I have never used before) and the necessary materials that I would need to do this right? I used to have a full zaino kit, which I liked, but apparently zaino is not what I need to use right now. So from start to finish. I do have all the zaino products (z5,z2, z7 and grand finale)

Thanks. Or is this a job best left to a good detailer to do with me doing periodic soft wax/polish touch-ups after?

 

Hi Moe; I'm a long time user of PG, IP, FPII, RD, and 106FF; are you looking for feedback on one in particular, or the whole line? I assume you use a rotary most of the time?

 

Thanks for the tips Moe, greatly appreciated

 

Feedback on the whole line would be very helpful. I don't use a rotay yet, still practicing. I use the DA. Have you had experience using Menzerna products with the DA? If so, what are your findings. Thanks.

 

Eddie..Can you post a few pics of the finish? It will give me a better idea of what to remedy. The good news is if there's minor micro-swirling, it can safely be removed using a DA, you cn do it. If it's deeper, then high speed buffing or color sanding may be needed. I use the DA and can do some pretty cool things on some bad paint situations. Porsche paint is very durable and can take lots of abuse. I'm not that familiar with using Zaino, but I know enough through the forum to tell you it's too much work. I've got lots of clients that were zaino guys and now are using zymol because they've seen what porsches look like using the zymol line. I'd recommend zymol to you as well. On a black car, Concours would be great. Don't let the $180 price tag shock you. You wax twice a year and one jar does 50 applications; that's 25 years of wax. Hope this helps and please send pics.

 

Hi Moe; I have used the entire line with a DA, it is probably my favorite line overall but I do still use other polishes when needed. I like that the line has a good variation between really aggressive, moderate, and some great finishing polishes. One down side is it is very picky about conditions; it will not work in the sun. Here are some thoughts on individual products.

Powergloss - very agressive, kind of difficult for a DA to break down but it will work. It will remove severe defects however the two downsides are it will leave significant micromarring/haze and it dusts quite a bit. Many detailers are 30% clearkote red moose glaze to it to mitigate dusting, it does not effect cut. Cut is similar to Poorboys SSR3/Hi Temp Extreme Cut. I prefer Hi Temp Extreme personally; no dust; better finish.

Intensive Polish - light to moderate cut; a go to polish for moderate defects. Cuts quickly and finishes reasonably, it will dust too - red moose glaze is also used to help cut down dusting. It's a very easy polish to use with the DA. This is probably my favorite moderate level polish, I do use Optimum Hyper, Compound, and Hi Temp Heavy when in sun.

Final Polish II - arguably the best finishing polish readily avaialble to consumers. Low cut, will remove light marring and finishes down very nice, won't dust unless over worked, very easy to use.

106ff (also 8RD, which is discontinued) - these are the ceramiclear menznera polishes. They can also be found under the Blackfire name. 106ff is hands down the best finisher I've ever used; it has slightly less cut than FPII and is harder to find, but works similarly. It finishes down micromarring free on just about all paint.

I hope this helps. The way these products works changes a bit on the rotary (for example, PG is better via rotary and 106ff is too).

Cheers,

Kevin

 

WOW!!! Thanks for the in depth feedback Kevin. I greatly appreciate it. I will order some next week and give them all a try. Let you know how they do

 

Hey Moe, no prob; us detailin' guys gotta help eachother out.

There are lots of Menzerna reviews at Autopia.org too, generally 106ff and IP are pretty much go-to's for a lot of guys; with Opt Hyper and Hi Temp EC dominating the "really aggressive" stuff. If I could make one recommendation it'd be to definitely grab some 106ff. A lot of folks skip it and just get FPII (which is a great product), but on soft black paint you will absolutely love having 106FF around for finishing.

 

Its my number one choice in polishes , im using since 2004 and i don´t want anything more
What products are you using or interested ???

Regards

 

Thanks...I'll order their stuff. Any suggestions on where to get them at a good price?