Thanks a ton Moe and Flash80, I really appreciate the response. Once I get around to taking a stab at the correction process, I'll throw up some pics for everyone to enjoy.

 

Sorry Moe If I may comment on this. As Moe also said it is what you want trial and error and seeing what you like best is what is key with detailing. It is for the most part subjective. Zaino is a sealant and will give off more of a reflective surface then a wax. Zaino will last longer as well. A quality wax will give off a very reflective surface as well (not as much though it is noticable) but will have a depth that may resemble a water like layer on the paint. In the end LSP's are only so much. Absolutely nothing can beat a well prepped car that has had the swirl marks and etchings removed from the paint.

Hope this may have helped.

 

Well said. Bottom line is, the end result is in the prep work. I can put a $8000 wax on a car that needs correction and put a $40 wax on a car that is well corrected, and the $40 wax will beat the other hands down. It should also be noted though, that the statement "Zaino will last longer" or a synthetic lasting longer than a natural carnauba is a myth. Most waxes on their own will only last a few months at the most. You can greatly extend the protection and the appearance by merely washing your car no later than two weeks with a quality pH balanced soap and waxing the finish using a either a natural carnauba spray wax or a polymer spray wax. Most of my clients' cars will look great and be protected for many months; and I use a natural protduct not a synthetic. A typical detail that I do will last 6 months depending on the care. All the client does in between full details is wash using Zymol Clear and spray wax using Zymol Field Glaze. If you want to go the synthetic route, try the einszett route. Their Detail Spray is very easy to use and works great.

 

It also all depends on the amount the car is driven. But for the most part high end waxes Swissol/Zymol do have a much longer life span than most of the lower end waxes. Pinnacle Souveran is the exception that is it higher end but has a shorter life span than a Swissol or Zymol wax.

 

I would be curious to hear how swissol performs. Has anyone here used it long term?

 

Question. After a wash with the Clear Auto-Bathe, is it a must every time to use the HD-Cleanse, or is that more for a "switch" to make sure your working not only with a clean washed car, but a "base" that is compatible with the Zymol product?

Basically, is it better to run thru the full process every 4-6months (lets say), or, with proper maint/washing (ie. w/Zymol Clear), go with a 2nd application of the wax and build on the original?

(Needless to say I went shopping this afternoon.............picked up the Clear Bathe, Creame Wax ...they only had that or the Carbon, and my car is white, and the HD-Cleanse)

 

I know me and Phil from detailerdomain have both used it. Hopefully he can chime in as well. I really like the Swissol products that I have used. I prefer the pre-cleaner to hd-cleanse. I have also used the Zuffenhausen Wax and Concorso both are a joy to use and look great.

 

Moe, what do you recommend for cleaning glass?

 

What about the pre-cleaner is better than hd? Ease of use, correcting ability, depth, etc. How long do the waxes perform?

 

Meguiar's Detailer Line Glass Cleaner is the best glass cleaner i've used. A good polish is the Autoglym Glass Polish. The trick is though, the microfiber towel. Make sure it's of excellent quality.

 

Ease of use more than anything I believe.

 

I will admit, after using the HD-Cleanse for the 1st time (yes, I've stepped it up and gone with the real-deal now)....... it was a pia to remove. I ended up using a microfiber to take of the initial covering (and did just after 30secs+ or so), but needed to use a slightly moist microfiber to remove ultimately.

Now....... Following with the moist towel was fast and did a slick job. I will say, its amazing how nice the car comes out with just the HD.

Any idears on why the HD leaves residue? (I mean if i probably applied lots of pressure, it would have come off...... the warm mf proably just "liquifies it" a tad to remove)

I am VERY impressed (and I'm only using their CREAME wax, which is what they had at the store) with the results. A extra freebie is when I do the Aero-wing, there was so much static my arm hair was standing up 4" away, sounded like a small army of static explosions going off............and I probably could have lit up a 100watt bulb had I been holding one. :-)

 

HD-Cleanse should have been removed using either a high quality 100% cotton towel or a waffle weave microfiber. Typically you want to work in small sections and apply/remove. You shouldn't have static either; that's a result of the towel you were using. If you let hd dry too long, and the wax application for that matter, it becomes difficult to remove. You guage the removal time based on the environment. Hope these tip help for next time.

 

I have a black Cayenne produced in early May, from the factory, (or the dealer) there are many very small fine scratches, can only see them in direct sunlight, most scratches are straight back and forth. I took it to the dealer last Saturday and they used 3M trizact then a 3000 final glaze on a few of the spots I complained about, it seems to have done a good job.

I would like to detail the remaining car myself, which has similar scratches. I am going to purchase a PC 7424 buffer. I have been reading some detailing threads and I am more confused than ever. I have only waxed it one time using Zymol, the cheap Auto Zone type. It didn't do a good job, just left oily smudges and was almost impossible to buff out.

I was thinking about using Zymol Concours for wax, but I am open to any suggestions. Can someone please outline the pads I should buy and what products to use to get the fine scratches out? Should I use clay? Any special washes?

Thanks
Frank

 

The PC 7424 is a good polisher--not too dangerous for a beginner (I still am!). I don't know much about the Zymol Concours--I use mostly Mezerna products.

The pads I use are the Lake County (or Country, I can't remember). The black is the softest, then white and then orange(there are others, but I don't have those--I think blue is the softest and yellow is the hardest).

You want to use the least abrasive pad/polish combo possible. In terms of removing fine scratches, I use Mezerna Intensive Polish. The Poor Boy's SR2.5 is really good too (a bit more abrasive). I usually use the white pad, but some scratches require a stiffer pad.
Claying is always important, run your hand over the paint, if it feels "bumpy", then you need to clay.

A lot of ppl advocate using a dishwashing detergent (like Dawn) prior to claying/polishing. This should remove any previous waxes. I usually just use the Mezerna Auto Shampoo.

Anyway, I'm sure there are lots of other ppl with more experience that will chime in. Good luck, take your time. Black cars are a PAIN to keep clean--but they look awesome after a good detailing.