Here's a quick DIY guide on the rear transmission mount replacement. Its a very easy job and can be done in about 45 minutes with cleaning, etc. I had the car on the front ramps and had a regular jack and a piece of 2x4 as a support under the PDK Transmission pan. You'll need a 13mm, 16mm, and a 18mm socket and thats all you'll need. After having the car on ramps and transmission supported, start off by removing that center bolt with bracket which is a 18mm bolt. Then the 2 13mm bolts, loosen them, but dont remove completely. Then there are 6, 16mm bolts holding up the bracket, you can remove those bolts completely assuming you have the jack under the transmission pan pumped up slightly to support. Then remove the 2 13mm bolts while supporting the entire black bracket and that piece should come off no problem. From here, you will see the transmission mount bolted on to the tranny with 3, 16mm bolts, remove that carefully holding the mount while removing the last bolt. And you just go in reverse order to put it all back together. Definitely recommend cleaning all the surfaces on the bracket.

Results: The car is sooo much more smoother and in shifting and going over bumps. Huge improvement and absolutely worth it. No leaks on the transmission pan after driving 1,000 miles, however, will be changing out the pan and filter coming up soon.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nma...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Qts7QJeBQdTaEiqFc-yD94D1HhZtDAY/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ujmbpjha1z7RV3q7ICHfN3ZncZUlaYez/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/126J...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WTb...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_r-...ew?usp=sharing

Pics coming up... as soon as i figure how right now...

 

Very cool, what prompted you to replace it? and where did you get it ?

 

Dogwood, I have hit the 100k mile mark and Im doing a super thorough refresh of everything while simultaneously building up the car for more power and boost. I was planning on doing my transmission filter and fluid change a bit earlier than the 120k mile mark as recommended and thought this would be a perfect opportunity to do it. I recently just changed out the entire suspension arms on the car front and back and the car drives beyond ridiculous now, haha. I picked it up here, as they had it in stock and they always have it to me by the next day without any extra shipping charges. https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/4894/POR_4894_TRAUTO_pg2.htm#item8

 

Thanks Alex, I've done a fair amount of business with Pelican myself

you should write up a "blog" or a nice long report on what you're doing, sounds a like a nice project

Love it when people actually keep and take care of their cars.

 

Sounds like something I might actually be able to accomplish myself when needed - thanks for posting. I had my transmission mounts go bad on my 911 and it caused a significant rumble under certain load conditions and after replacement it ran so much quieter and so much smoother. Also glad to hear you replaced the control arms front and rear - I keep hearing how it makes the car feel new again.

 

Also, with regard to suspension... Make sure you replace the sway bar bushings and make sure you have the updated sway bar link assembly... Makes a huge difference!

 

Hey Alex, how did you replace the sway bar bushings? Hard? Easy? I want to know the process and if I need to remove the subframe stuff there. Thanks for help.
Have info on which numbers are for the updated bushings for the sway bar? Thanks again.

 

second the request, my right front is going to need attention in the next year or so

 

I will actually post up a legit DIY for it, but to answer your question here so that you guys can get going on the project... The job is super easy! Although its not necessary to completely pull off that huge x-brace, I highly recommend you do as one of the surfaces of the bushing actuallys sits on that brace. You'll want to do a good degreasing of the entire bar and polish the surface where the bushing mates. Basically, to install the new bushings, all you have to do is mount the brace back on and have all the bolts screwed in by a total of 5 rotations. This will allow space for you to slide the top and bottom bushing sandwhiched between the sway bar. I highly recommend using this specific grease for bushings that prevent early wear. Once you have the bushing in place, just start screwing in the bracket bolts slowly and evenly and thats it. The longest part is the cleaning and removing of the underbody panel. You only need to jack up and support one side of the front, for me, it was easiest going through the passenger side with wheel off. Here are the updated part Numbers for this entire overhaul:
1)Upper Bushingx2: 970.343.792.06
2)LowerBushingx2:970.343.793.06
3)Sway Bar Updated Link: 970.006.903 ---> There are certain versions that also come with two nuts and a bolt.
4) https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-FORMULA-PRELUBE/dp/B000MW5SJ4/ref=asc_df_B000MW5SJ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312114638367&hvpos=1o14&hvn etw=g&hvrand=7200421033134348327&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h vqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031580 &hvtargid=pla-493158597728&psc=1]https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-FORMULA-PRELUBE/dp/B000MW5SJ4/ref=asc_df_B000MW5SJ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312114638367&hvpos=1o14&hvn etw=g&hvrand=7200421033134348327&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h vqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031580 &hvtargid=pla-493158597728&psc=1

The updated sway bar link is improved as it replaces your current link(which has two ball joints) with a single ball joint design with a regular bushing joint. This makes the car much more stable in turns and a vast improvement. Takes away the clunk.

And a piece of Advice.... so you dont freak out like I did.... When you get the new sway bar bushings and look at the diameter of the orifice and then look at the sway bar, your brain is gonna tell you that the bushing is too small.... It is not, haha. Also, place grease on the entire outer surface of the bushing as well as the mating surface to the bar and on the sway bar retaining ring.

 

 

Nicely done man! I wish http://i.viglink.com/?key=67dd7173560d3bab82bde3b3da28ac8d&insertId=cdc 6866eeec391e9&type=L&exp=-1%3Ana%3A0&libId=k27lksbh01000axn000DAlwzzdh4u&loc =https%3A%2F%2Fwww.6speedonline.com%2Fforums%2Fpan amera%2F434969-diy-970-pdk-transmission-mount-replacement.html&v=1&iid=cdc6866eeec391e9&opt=true &out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_n kw%3Denergy%2Bsuspension&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.6sp eedonline.com%2Fforums%2Fpanamera-75%2F&title=DIY%3A%20970%20PDK%20Transmission%20Mo unt%20Replacement%20-%206SpeedOnline%20-%20Porsche%20Forum%20and%20Luxury%20Car%20Resource &txt=%3Cspan%3EEnergy%20%3C%2Fspan%3E%3Cspan%3ESus pension%3C%2Fspan%3E]Energy Suspension or another company would produce urethane bushing kits for the 970. If I catch some time with them at SEMA in a couple weeks I'll bring this up.

 

that would be great, hopefully you can convince them I plan on doing mine next spring...

 

Just replaced mine. I would go over a bump and it would sound like the exhaust was loose...

 

Hello, first post here. I will be replacing the trans mount on my 2014 Panamera S this weekend. Can someone please post the torques for the bolts. Thanks in advance.

 

Trans Bracket to trans 65Nm (48ftlb) (3 bolts under the bracket)
trans support to bracket 23 Nm (17 ftlb) (2 bolts that attach bracket to 2 bushings
trans support to bracket 120 Nm (89 ftlb) ( 1 bolt in the center)
trans support to body 65 Nm (48 ftlb) (6 bolts bracket to body)