Precisely Stephen. We have been working on that over the last two weeks. I am lowering my peak torque. However, I am aiming at an average torque of 600 rwt from 3800 through 6800 rpm's.

Should be interesting to say the least. A flat liner torque curve. Coupled with some changed gearing.

 

YSITSMN,

Others can make more hp, but they don't have the style. That you can't change. There lies the difference.

 

A 1200 hp R32/33/34 Skyline is NOT designed for road racing... only for drag. Therein lies the other difference.

BTW, many of the Japanese tuners have tried to run high powered Supras and Skylines in the Nevada open road races. Guess what, none of them finished!

I heard they all pretty much broke down in the first 10 miles. Once again, going high speed for 100 miles is a hell of a lot different than a quarter mile.

 

Back to my original post, I don't think that most people who build 900-1000 HP motors are all that interested in reliability...

Again, just my $0.02.

 

A few weeks ago I installed a heat reflectant cloth on my Europipe 85 mm mufflers. I was just warned by Stef that the heat build up could damage the mufflers baffles. I did not consult with him in advance. In addition he said the higher temperature air moves faster and could result in more backpressure in the mufflers. I am removing the cloth from the mufflers as Europipe has suggested.

 

well, i'm not talking about running it 100K miles. I'm talking about you boosting it day in and day out and not blowing the motor. Of course they are worried about that, if the motor can't handle it it won't handle it for long and you will have to make it handle it.. I'm saying this one can handle it.

 

I have no idea why no one seems to be able to answer this question...

 

sticky,

Torque not hp is what usually bends rods. HP can cause problems in the higher rpm ranges. I understand the stock motor is somewhat safe to 7300 rpm's. I understand the 993 turbo rods started to encounter problems after 600 rwt. I have exceed that, but a little nervous about the test of time with the stock rods.

We are now taking a different approach. We are droping the torque to approximately 600 rwt, however instead of just peaking at about 4400 rpm's we are attempting to carry the 600 ft lbs through to redline. In other words a flatline 600 ft. lbs. of torque from approx. 3800 through 6800 rpm range.

 

Buddy. I would contact a shop that builds Porsche racing engines and ask them what the expected life of your engine is given the mods you have planned and the amount of time you expect to spend on the road course.

 

Chad - ever think of de-stroking a 996TT block? I've done some reading on why stroking an engine increase the TQ. I believe it has something to do with the added leverage created by a longer piston rod (i.e. a 383 v.s. a 350). The article was in Hot Rod magazine several months ago on "How to Stroke any Engine". De-stroking should reduce your TQ while giving you the ability to run higher RPM and HP. No? Mabey if you where to square it up a little you could also bore your pistons to reduce the effective smaller displacement of the shorter stroke. Ahhh... if only I had the money!

No how am I going to piece it together for an EVO stage 2....

 

I have heard from different sources that the 996tt motor which is based on the racing GT1 motor should handle up to 800hp before changing internals.

I am going to 700 hp and no more. If at some point I blow the sucker up it will just be a good excuse to change internals!!



ps: I will be getting the chipswitch which will allow me to run 700hp, 600hp and valet mode. So for the track I may just dial it down to 600hp. We will have to wait and see!

 

buddy,

If your rods let loose, you probably will be working with more than internals. That is. unless you consider your case to be part of the internals. Be prepared to lose the whole motor at worst case senerio. In addition, without major changes to the handling department, the 700 hp won't be good for much more than straight lines. Depending on the configeration of the track, you will probably be slipping all over the place or doing a lot for throttle feathering. Hey, you are already in the water and wet, break that piggy bank open and go for it.

What did you do for your clutch, front differencial cooling, tranny cooling and intercoolers?

One other caution now that you are about to attain these power figures. The other weak link on the 996tt is the axles. Particularily the splines. Pull them out on a consistant bases and have them examined (tested). There has been recent cases of problems with the axles on high powered 996tt/GT2's. One of these let's loose and you won't be very happy. If you want particulars, e-mail me.

 

Chad,

We have installed a fully adjustable coil over KW suspension. You can adjust compression and rebound separately as well as ride height. We have installed the upgraded Sachs Clutch and lightweight flywheel as well as stainless steel brake lines, pagid pads and brembo fluid.

 

I do not know about your suspension. Let us know what happens. My experience is you are still going to be doing a lot of sliding. Do yourself a cheap favor. Install differencial, tranny and oil temperature gauges. Don't push your car until the oil warms above 158 degrees. Be prepared to shut it down when your front differencial and transmission oils become too hot and they will. These gauges will save you a bundle in the long run.

I have not heard from you yet about how much advance notice you will need to get your car to Calif. for the shootout? Need to know so a date can be set.

 

The issues with rods has almost nothing to do with them physically bending in half. That comes later when they come off. The problem is the rod and rod bolts can not take the force or movement and they will start to stretch. As they stretch the contact area of the bearing becomes very centered as the end caps start to pinch if you will. The bearing then looses its ability to allow proper movement and will cause the rod to heat up and come apart. The rods are not as much of an issue as the rod bolts and nuts. This has been a plagued issue through the years with almost all Porsches. There are great aftermarket rods nuts and bolts. ARP, Raceware, Carrillo. All which will hold the rod together. The rod should still be shot peened at minimum to increase strength. The only issue in some cases is using a larger rod bolt. You run into the oil pump and have to make some clearance adjustments to the pump. Otherwise a rod upgrade and or fix is a job that doesn't require splitting the case. If the rods come loose you buy a motor, not a rod. It will throw its self out the side. Where it ends up is anyone's guess. How long will they last...All depends on average and peak numbers, max RPM and overall mileage. I have seen them go fast and some that last longer than they should. I have a ratio that I use when I build a motor based on these numbers. Depending on all the data I will make a recommendation on the service interval to go into the lower end. You can take a reading and see how far they are out when you do this. Of course if you use something like the Carrillo's or the Pauders then you have little to worry about.