Clutchmaster Level 3?
Clutchmaster Level 3?
Was wondering if this is the setup everyone is running on their 700HP cars.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutc...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutc...Q5fAccessories
Was wondering if this is the setup everyone is running on their 700HP cars.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutc...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutc...Q5fAccessories
I wouldn't buy a clutch, for my car, off eBay, no offense. You NEVER know what is gonna show up at your door. Don't get swayed by, what may be a good price. BUY YOUR CLUTCH FROM A KNOWN SOURCE AND A KNOWN VENDOR HERE. You will have support if it isn't right...and it likely won't be right. My .02.
I actually purchased a Brand new Stage 3 clutchmaster from a vendor here for cheaper! ... Havent installed it yet , still on stock clutch. But I have heard that full face Kevlar/Organic combination is the best way to go.
I'd stay away from "kevlar" for the friction material. I have it on mine and we're experiencing "release" issues. The kevlar gets hot and sticks to the PP/FW, which is a problem when you want to "shift" and the disc is still "stuck" holding...
Clutchmasters does make a new friction material called Fibertuff that has the holding power of kevlar without the "stick" issues...
And I'd not in a million years buy the Spec setup... Drove it on Gunther's car and the clutch pedal was at the dash before lock-up. Apparently after breakin, the pedal travel is really high.
No thanks.
Mike
Clutchmasters does make a new friction material called Fibertuff that has the holding power of kevlar without the "stick" issues...
And I'd not in a million years buy the Spec setup... Drove it on Gunther's car and the clutch pedal was at the dash before lock-up. Apparently after breakin, the pedal travel is really high.
No thanks.
Mike
I do have a Single disc Tilton 8.5" Tilton that holds 700rwtq, it's at BBi for Sale. PM me for details.
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I wouldn't buy a clutch, for my car, off eBay, no offense. You NEVER know what is gonna show up at your door. Don't get swayed by, what may be a good price. BUY YOUR CLUTCH FROM A KNOWN SOURCE AND A KNOWN VENDOR HERE. You will have support if it isn't right...and it likely won't be right. My .02.
I saw that same ad on ebay a week after i got mine.. Its about 150 bucks cheaper than a good vendor here. But i got exactly what i wanted, now its smooth after 500-600 miles, and puts all my 575 hp down beautifully. I can briefly get sideways with this clutch. Impressive.
I'd stay away from "kevlar" for the friction material. I have it on mine and we're experiencing "release" issues. The kevlar gets hot and sticks to the PP/FW, which is a problem when you want to "shift" and the disc is still "stuck" holding...
Clutchmasters does make a new friction material called Fibertuff that has the holding power of kevlar without the "stick" issues...
And I'd not in a million years buy the Spec setup... Drove it on Gunther's car and the clutch pedal was at the dash before lock-up. Apparently after breakin, the pedal travel is really high.
No thanks.
Mike
Clutchmasters does make a new friction material called Fibertuff that has the holding power of kevlar without the "stick" issues...
And I'd not in a million years buy the Spec setup... Drove it on Gunther's car and the clutch pedal was at the dash before lock-up. Apparently after breakin, the pedal travel is really high.
No thanks.
Mike
Agreed TTboost.
I saw that same ad on ebay a week after i got mine.. Its about 150 bucks cheaper than a good vendor here. But i got exactly what i wanted, now its smooth after 500-600 miles, and puts all my 575 hp down beautifully. I can briefly get sideways with this clutch. Impressive.
I saw that same ad on ebay a week after i got mine.. Its about 150 bucks cheaper than a good vendor here. But i got exactly what i wanted, now its smooth after 500-600 miles, and puts all my 575 hp down beautifully. I can briefly get sideways with this clutch. Impressive.
And thats 575 awhp? or crank?
If its awhp, i guess thats where I'll end up which is what i need.
When you put a new clutch on, do you have to replace the flywheel? My local guy says they get hot and burned up and will need a new one every clutch change. My car only has 42k. Just curious - I only want to do this once for now!
At a MINIMUM, it should be resurfaced, however, if it is a stock dual mass flywheel, it cannot be resurfaced, in which case, yes, you need a new one. Again, if you don't have one, you can go with a LWFW, which is cheaper and it can be re-surfaced next time. How a clutch "beds in" is critical to break in and life. Best to start with 2 clean surfaces...nature of the beast, sorry for the bad news...
At a MINIMUM, it should be resurfaced, however, if it is a stock dual mass flywheel, it cannot be resurfaced, in which case, yes, you need a new one. Again, if you don't have one, you can go with a LWFW, which is cheaper and it can be re-surfaced next time. How a clutch "beds in" is critical to break in and life. Best to start with 2 clean surfaces...nature of the beast, sorry for the bad news...
Thanks again!
Call Vivid. They'll get u what u need. Ive never had my car dynoed but i think my 575 is at the crank. My Clutchmasters stage 3 is excellent so far, as advertised. No slip. Its harder to be smooth in first compared to stock, but its been better as the miles come on. I havent put it thru the paces at the drag strip yet, but they say it'll hold up well to punishment.
I don't think it matters, as long as you have it on the FW side... You have to be able to release the contact between the disc and the fw in order to have the drivetrain be happy, and I don't have that. According to Kevin, who supposedely pioneered this whole SACHs Clutch design and then took it to CLutchmasters way back in the day (His words, not mine), the kevlar gets hot and tacky and STICKS, which is great for holding. Not so great when you need to release. The Fibertuff material gives the best of both worlds... I'll have it in my car when the trans gets pulled and rebuilt starting next week!
Mike
Mike





