Hey guys,
For those who have removed their coolant fittings(vs. pinning without fitting removal) when doing the pinning, what epoxy have you used to replace the factory epoxy? Hard to find a trustable weld shop in my area so pinning is looking like the way to go for me...
Thanks in advance,
Rob

 

You could send the parts to Gmg racing. They have a welding program just for this.

 

trying to run a tight deadline on this, will hopefully be back on road within this week, local options only...thanks for the post though.

 

I thoroughly cleaned..used de-burr tool to rough up, buffed with scotchbrite pad....wiped with alcohol and used JB Weld on the one that popped. The rest of them I "pinned" without removing. I have put over 3k really hard miles on her and all is well.

 

thanks! do you remember what JB Weld you used? all the metal welds have different heat/shrink characteristics and want to find one that fits the bill

 

The standard old school original JB Weld. Make sure to give it the full 24hr cure time.

 

Thanks!

 

Rob,
Have you thought about having your shop remove the manifolds and then shipping them out to get all 8 fittings welded? Fedex makes it easy. We have an FAA certified welder in the Denver area that has done probably 15-20 cars over the last couple of years. He's top notch. Ever seen a guy cut a coke can in half on a band saw and weld it back together. Not kidding you, this guy is that good.

 

Unfortunately I'm trying to do the whole job in a week or less, and keep the budget somewhat intact this year, already has been a $$$$ year. There is one well-recommended weld shop locally that I might investigate further, otherwise JB Weld it is.

Thanks for the recommendation though!
Cheers,

 

I am not sure if proper for this application, but if money is less of a concern, I would suggest

1) Loctite Primer 7075
2) Loctite 324 Speedbonder

This is a quick action bonding agent that reacts fast and is as strong if not stronger than epoxy based products like JB Weld.

 

^Thank-you for the recommendation!
-Rob

 

If you use loctite with a primer be prepared as parts can bond nearly instantly upon contact. I used some for a bearing race in a motor and it bonded solid in less than a second. Way before I even got the race in position. It took a lot of heat to get it to move again and free it up so I could re clean up everything and start over.

Any good radiator shop can weld your aluminum properly.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...e-bonding.html

Some info and pictures

 

thanks a bunch guys! Pat thank-you for the link to your thread, likely the route I will be going. Both welding and pinning have pros and cons.
The ultimate solution will be when someone starts making a true 'one-piece' solution via CNC billets or 3D printing....
Kinda sad I'm more excited about doing P.M. on my cooling system than the injectors/wastegates/tune I'm doing at the same time, lol.
Cheers,

 

Hi Nick,
You have to be specific with the adhesive you may have used. Indeed, The Loctite 324 that is an Acrylic type bond, takes about a good 5 mins in room temperature, i.e. 25c to cure.

The primer is mostly to clean and prep the contact area. I am enclosing a TDS (Technical Data Sheet) for 324 for all to review, basically please see the chart on typical curing performance. The funny thing is I am a software guy, but chemistry somehow always appealed to me.

http://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/8D3D677339F34ACD882571870000D65C/$File/324-EN.pdf