Upgraded aero and brakes for 996tt
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Cup and RSR wing are similar Fadi. 7Cup wing is 67". The RSR is 72" if I recall. The one I run is 63" in the picture below. I'm not sure if anyone make a wider wing for our cars besides Getty. You can add a gurney flap to a wing to increase it's effectiveness if you don't want to go overly wide. If you end up with a large rear wing make sure your front aero is also increased. Vent the center radiator up and over the hood (instead of dumping air under the car) as this does wonders for donwforce. Add a splitter, canards, etc...
[url=https://flic.kr/p/KTkSRb]
I have both a Getty decklid (pictured below) and an OEM GT2 decklid/wing. Both have air intakes in the vertical uprights which are exposed to ram air feeding the OEM air box with positive pressure air via an inlet on the passenger side. Works well. Just make sure you have a tight seal between the lid and the air box. To get a better seal I transferred the seal to the air box and use a flat CF plate on the decklid. None of this really applies in your case as you have fender well intakes and the air inlets in the decklid are useless.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/LgJD8C]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/KTkSRb]
I have both a Getty decklid (pictured below) and an OEM GT2 decklid/wing. Both have air intakes in the vertical uprights which are exposed to ram air feeding the OEM air box with positive pressure air via an inlet on the passenger side. Works well. Just make sure you have a tight seal between the lid and the air box. To get a better seal I transferred the seal to the air box and use a flat CF plate on the decklid. None of this really applies in your case as you have fender well intakes and the air inlets in the decklid are useless.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/LgJD8C]
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Honestly both work fine. When I was fitting the decklid I realized I did not have the plastic GT2 adapter that the rubber seal is fitted to on the decklid. To improvise, I mounted a flat CF plate on the decklid and simply screwed the rubber seal onto the air box with small screws around the perimeter of the seal which resulted in a perfect seal between the air box and the rubber gasket. I then simply cut an opening in the decklid mounted CF plate that perfectly matched the opening in the seal. I really ended up liking the way it came out as this provided a bullet proof seal while maximizing the opening into the air box. By comparison, the OEM way the rubber seal is affixed to the decklid is a bit flimsy and did not provide such a precise seal in my case. Yeah, I'm a bit ****..
Last edited by pwdrhound; Nov 23, 2016 at 05:13 PM.
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GT-Racing makes a 70 inch wing. Im pretty sure the width of the car is 72 inches at the widest point (rear fender arches).
http://www.gt-racing.com/wing-blade-...0-part-426-70/
http://www.gt-racing.com/wing-blade-...0-part-426-70/
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Honestly both work fine. When I was fitting the decklid I realized I did not have the plastic GT2 adapter that the rubber seal is fitted to on the decklid. To improvise, I mounted a flat CF plate on the decklid and simply screwed the rubber seal onto the air box with small screws around the perimeter of the seal which resulted in a perfect seal between the air box and the rubber gasket. I then simply cut an opening in the decklid mounted CF plate that perfectly matched the opening in the seal. I really ended up liking the way it came out as this provided a bullet proof seal while maximizing the opening into the air box. By comparison, the OEM way the rubber seal is affixed to the decklid is a bit flimsy and did not provide such a precise seal in my case. Yeah, I'm a bit ****..
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Fadi, have you asked wings / body parts from Zimspeed? Then Elite Projects in Sweden does all kinds of stuff for Porsches.
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Hi Pete, yes I have tried Zimspeed, but their products are sensible more expensive than all the others, checked now Elite Projects' website but besides front bumper and hood not much else
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EP has this Cup wing in carbon too.
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Speaking about big wings, I bought this DP-Motorsport 170cm wing and decklid,
Just have to organize shipping for it. I will actually potentially have it for sale, I may have some completely different 2017 plans going on, but don't know yet. Will keep you posted if so!
Seems the decklid is a similar piece that was first in the 996 GT2 EDO Competition Record car (before they changed the look to (an improved?) 997 RSR look), may not be the best but should work well I hope:
Just have to organize shipping for it. I will actually potentially have it for sale, I may have some completely different 2017 plans going on, but don't know yet. Will keep you posted if so!
Seems the decklid is a similar piece that was first in the 996 GT2 EDO Competition Record car (before they changed the look to (an improved?) 997 RSR look), may not be the best but should work well I hope:
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Yes, this is what DP sent me, I am considering running a bigger wing like 170mm myself, what other setup are you considering ? PM me a price if you make up your mind, might jump on it 
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Seems my deal with cargraphic is off... Will look for some more options or maybe will still leave the gt2 for this season.
1700mm is where a Wing starts to be called a Wing LOL
Had some deliveries today
380mm girodiscs
pfc brake pads
Giros are huge... even compared to 350mm, they are just wow
By mistake the supplier sent me additionally one pagid 350mm slotted disc, can say "by hand" the 380giro is lighter than 350pagid
1700mm is where a Wing starts to be called a Wing LOL
Had some deliveries today
380mm girodiscs
pfc brake pads
Giros are huge... even compared to 350mm, they are just wow
By mistake the supplier sent me additionally one pagid 350mm slotted disc, can say "by hand" the 380giro is lighter than 350pagid
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This has been an educational read and I think my new to me 6TT comes sorted with many of the upgrades mentioned here and look forward to getting her out on a DRY track! I had used 245/315 NTs but the sky's unleashed and it was a mess! I've got some new 245/305 NTs from my GT3 so will give this a go as I've already got the GT2 tranny (no AWD).
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Seems we need some answers to a new problem, going to install some fender flares and car should be 4.5cm wider each side in the front and 8cm in the back, after lots of thoughts I would do 10.5 fronts and 13 rears.
10.5 fronts should allow to use 265+ wheels and going up to 295 or so
13 should be enough for any tire on the market
Now the problem seems to be the ETs, as I calculated they seem to go negative
10J fronts ET -5
10.5J fronts ET 0
13J rears ET -25
The looks should be great, but what about performance, are there any downsides to go negative offsets? I know Cups run small positive offsets but they are built wide from the factory.
From what I have read, seems to worry about scrab radius, wear on bearings, knuckles, uprights, and other components (I am fine with that if not a big concern regarding my own safety), might have to read more about suspension settings in general and our cars in particular.
Anybody raced their cars using negative offsets? I see only RWB kits and old school racing cars using those, wondering why ?
10.5 fronts should allow to use 265+ wheels and going up to 295 or so
13 should be enough for any tire on the market
Now the problem seems to be the ETs, as I calculated they seem to go negative
10J fronts ET -5
10.5J fronts ET 0
13J rears ET -25
The looks should be great, but what about performance, are there any downsides to go negative offsets? I know Cups run small positive offsets but they are built wide from the factory.
From what I have read, seems to worry about scrab radius, wear on bearings, knuckles, uprights, and other components (I am fine with that if not a big concern regarding my own safety), might have to read more about suspension settings in general and our cars in particular.
Anybody raced their cars using negative offsets? I see only RWB kits and old school racing cars using those, wondering why ?
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Seems we need some answers to a new problem, going to install some fender flares and car should be 4.5cm wider each side in the front and 8cm in the back, after lots of thoughts I would do 10.5 fronts and 13 rears.
10.5 fronts should allow to use 265+ wheels and going up to 295 or so
13 should be enough for any tire on the market
Now the problem seems to be the ETs, as I calculated they seem to go negative
10J fronts ET -5
10.5J fronts ET 0
13J rears ET -25
The looks should be great, but what about performance, are there any downsides to go negative offsets? I know Cups run small positive offsets but they are built wide from the factory.
From what I have read, seems to worry about scrab radius, wear on bearings, knuckles, uprights, and other components (I am fine with that if not a big concern regarding my own safety), might have to read more about suspension settings in general and our cars in particular.
Anybody raced their cars using negative offsets? I see only RWB kits and old school racing cars using those, wondering why ?
10.5 fronts should allow to use 265+ wheels and going up to 295 or so
13 should be enough for any tire on the market
Now the problem seems to be the ETs, as I calculated they seem to go negative
10J fronts ET -5
10.5J fronts ET 0
13J rears ET -25
The looks should be great, but what about performance, are there any downsides to go negative offsets? I know Cups run small positive offsets but they are built wide from the factory.
From what I have read, seems to worry about scrab radius, wear on bearings, knuckles, uprights, and other components (I am fine with that if not a big concern regarding my own safety), might have to read more about suspension settings in general and our cars in particular.
Anybody raced their cars using negative offsets? I see only RWB kits and old school racing cars using those, wondering why ?
yes it's going to be harder on bearings. John would be the go to guy for those questions.
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All 4 rims will be 3 piece custom made, as we dont run wider cars from factory can do higher ET and eventually add some spacers or going with lower ETs from the start and having advantages on looks in my opinion and keeping also the oem wheel studs, the only downside will be to calculate the offsets so nothing will rub there, I got my info regarding ETs from John, aka the ultimate guru here imo, and converted his offsets using 10/13 rims to flared fenders 10/13 and 10.5/13 but 10.5 in front seems to make more sense as anyway running 275 or wider front wheels only