Failed CA Smog Test
have you recently disconnected the battery? do you have an aftermarket tune on the car? if you disconnected the battery you have to do a drive cycle to reset the monitors. if you have a tune you may have the rear cats turned off. tuner will have to turn them on.
what was changed since the last time you did emissions?
what was changed since the last time you did emissions?
i agree you should first attempt to reset the monitors before swapping out parts. you could've have been driving issue free all this time and still have "not ready" on some portion(s) of the obd readout.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
in case its not handy, here it is:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
in case its not handy, here it is:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
Last edited by '02996ttx50; Sep 16, 2015 at 07:21 PM.
have you recently disconnected the battery? do you have an aftermarket tune on the car? if you disconnected the battery you have to do a drive cycle to reset the monitors. if you have a tune you may have the rear cats turned off. tuner will have to turn them on.
what was changed since the last time you did emissions?
what was changed since the last time you did emissions?
The car is tuned and have passed all smog tests in the past.
i agree you should first attempt to reset the monitors before swapping out parts. you could've have been driving issue free all this time and still have "not ready" on some portion(s) of the obd readout.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
in case its not handy, here it is:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
in case its not handy, here it is:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
^^^Never knew about this. Will give it a try.
Last edited by 996TWINS; Sep 17, 2015 at 07:25 AM.
provided there's nothing wrong with the car ( o2's etc ) it will do the trick. the real trick actually will be maintaining those EXACT speeds without interference from other traffic.
i had to do it at 4 am to be able to maintain those speeds at a constant. it worked perfectly, and in about a 1/2 hour. good luck w it.
i had to do it at 4 am to be able to maintain those speeds at a constant. it worked perfectly, and in about a 1/2 hour. good luck w it.
Trending Topics
provided there's nothing wrong with the car ( o2's etc ) it will do the trick. the real trick actually will be maintaining those EXACT speeds without interference from other traffic.
i had to do it at 4 am to be able to maintain those speeds at a constant. it worked perfectly, and in about a 1/2 hour. good luck w it.
i had to do it at 4 am to be able to maintain those speeds at a constant. it worked perfectly, and in about a 1/2 hour. good luck w it.
Thanks.
PLAN B: Sam
Thank you for your offer.
Last edited by 996TWINS; Sep 17, 2015 at 09:43 AM.
I had the same problem. Pick up an OBD scanner that can check your I/M monitor status. I picked up an Innova 3100i, plugged it in, drove around until all I/M's were green, and passed smog. It'll save you a bunch of trips to your smog place.
[QUOTE=996TWINS;4401506]PLAN A: I was on the 118 Freeway doing the procedure. Going to the smog station this later morning to see if it worked.
Thanks. QUOTE]
ha the 118 is about the only fwy you could've done that on!
hope it worked, it should've! also, a good idea ( as uschoice mentioned ) always carry a small code reader beforehand. always check before they plug you in. since if "the"y want to be a**holes about it, they can log a "fail" just for the codes not being in "ready".
please let us know if it worked! GL!
Thanks. QUOTE]
ha the 118 is about the only fwy you could've done that on!
hope it worked, it should've! also, a good idea ( as uschoice mentioned ) always carry a small code reader beforehand. always check before they plug you in. since if "the"y want to be a**holes about it, they can log a "fail" just for the codes not being in "ready".
please let us know if it worked! GL!
Sorry, it did not work. Thanks for the advice. Will give it another try this weekend.
The Durametric or PWIS will read which O2 sensor(s) may be faulty. Apparently, the smog test station equipment cannot.
I need to go next week to get my fluids changed at my indy shop anyway. So hopefully this will be cleared up.
Thanks again guys.
The Durametric or PWIS will read which O2 sensor(s) may be faulty. Apparently, the smog test station equipment cannot.
I need to go next week to get my fluids changed at my indy shop anyway. So hopefully this will be cleared up.
Thanks again guys.
Last edited by 996TWINS; Sep 17, 2015 at 12:48 PM.
Sorry, it did not work. Thanks for the advice. Will give it another try this weekend.
The Durametric or PWIS will read which O2 sensor(s) may be faulty. Apparently, the smog test station equipment cannot.
I need to go next week to get my fluids changed at my indy shop anyway. So hopefully this will be cleared up.
Thanks again guys.
The Durametric or PWIS will read which O2 sensor(s) may be faulty. Apparently, the smog test station equipment cannot.
I need to go next week to get my fluids changed at my indy shop anyway. So hopefully this will be cleared up.
Thanks again guys.
__________________
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials facebook SpeedTech Exhaust Videos
I will ad that O2 sensors have a life on them. If your car is higher milage, you are probably due. I think sensors are rated for ~60K tops and with some of the tunes we run and hotter gasses being passed over the sensors, life expectancy may decrease.
Typically this is what is being read for readiness:
M - Misfire
F - Fuel System
CC - Comprehensive Component
The following (5) Monitors were in a Non-set (flashing) condition:
C - Catalyst
EV - Evaporative System
2A - Sec. Air System (SAI)
O - Oxygen Sensor
OH – Oxygen Sensor Heater
Sensor may not be your only problem. Make sure you check for leaking exhaust or around sensor/catalyst also as this would return bad values.
Best way is to run durametric for parameters.
Typically this is what is being read for readiness:
M - Misfire
F - Fuel System
CC - Comprehensive Component
The following (5) Monitors were in a Non-set (flashing) condition:
C - Catalyst
EV - Evaporative System
2A - Sec. Air System (SAI)
O - Oxygen Sensor
OH – Oxygen Sensor Heater
Sensor may not be your only problem. Make sure you check for leaking exhaust or around sensor/catalyst also as this would return bad values.
Best way is to run durametric for parameters.
Yes, SG will fix. As usual.
Mileage about 66K. Figure I may just replace all four sensors to avoid bringing the car back to the shop more than once.
Mileage about 66K. Figure I may just replace all four sensors to avoid bringing the car back to the shop more than once.
Last edited by 996TWINS; Sep 17, 2015 at 03:16 PM.






