Does anyone here have these, they claim they're a bit quieter than OEM cup. Looking for feed back and how they compare to OEM 996TT & cup.
TIA
Jim

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...7#ITEM_6136045

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drivet...up-Cables.html

 

Ira has been making top notch components for years, he's products are great quality and he stands behind them. He's always there to answer questions give him a call , super nice guy.

 

Yep, he is a super nice guy, I have purchased their products and not questioning their service.

I just wanted to know if anyone has tried the cables, John Phound has and has advised to go with OEM cup.

 

Hey Jim,
Tarett cable are Numeric...
I'll be the complete outsider and say you don't need them...
The reason the factory made a plastic coupler is to protect the synchro's...The EVOMS/ or Cup/Numeric/etc metal coupler/cables 'guarantees' a non-loss of shifter....

 

Thanks Rob,

Am i better off sticking with 996TT stock ones, are the OEM cup ones ok to use, any downsides apart from extra NVH. So which ones are you saying wear out the synchros? My indie swears by cup, mine aren't too bad, thought it might give it a more precise shift.

 

Hey Jim,
Outside of NVH and synchro wear, no issue to issue Cup cable...synchro wear all depends how you shift, I'm sure 99% of the time it is non-issue...drag/vmax time guys will be the outsiders...


EVOMS front replacement makes a lot of sense for street cars IMO...eliminates the failure points and leaves some rubber isolation at trans for street....track-only/race is Cup no-brainer....

 

The plastic on the street cables is there to isolate noise from the gearbox. The Cup stuff is all metal which eliminates any flex and possibility of failure but will transmit a very slight hum into the cabin at cruise with windows up. With windows down you can't hear it. No issue with synchros wearing whatsoever. Shifting like a monkey without rev matching will wear your synchros but the cables don't have anything to do with that. For street car I'd skip the cables unless you really want a super solid shift feel at the expense of a little NVH.

 

Sounds good, would I need to order 2 of the same kits for "fore-aft' cable end that commonly fails & 'side-to-side' cable end as well."


From Evoms website
http://www.evoms.com/EVOMS_Billet_Shift_Linkage_p/ssl996.htm

The Billet Shift Linkage replaces the failure-prone plastic cable ends on all manual transmission 986/987/996/997 models with a virtually indestructible billet aluminum housing and delrin socket, improving feel and resolving an issue that could potentially leave you stranded and unable to shift gears.

The kit includes one linkage, meant to replace the 'fore-aft' cable end that commonly fails. Order two kits to replace the 'side-to-side' cable end as well.
V2.0 brings a new look, new finish, and better fit to our long-loved shift linkage. Step up to our latest design for your Porsche!

-Ten times stronger than stock linkage
-Made out of 6061 Billet Aluminum
-Bolt-on installation
-Can reuse stock shift mechanism
-Lifetime Guarantee

 

Think John and I are echoing the same idea...but different perspectives(which I respect)
There are ways to isolate NVH without breakage under 'heavy' usage....having a part break to consider that application is wrong... 'plastic' thread shear vs synchro shear strength.
If you want a racercar killler, buy a Cup and/or shell + your driveline...if you want a street car that has no problem with the latest supercars....
Cheers,

 

just need the fore-aft cable

 

Thanks guys, l'll take it all on board and chew it over.
Just to get this straight , stock cables with Evoms billet linkages good idea? Or just leave as is and hope cables don't break.

 

John, as Rob said he isn't really saying anything different than you are. With Cup cables and monkey-like shifting, you can strain the synchros to a greater extent than with the spongy stock cables.

Rob, there is a definite difference in feel between the stock and Cup cables. Rifle bolt has been used before and it is an apt description. Can't comment on NVH, as the car I drove had no interior :-) (was not a real Cup, tho. Newest real Cup car I've driven was a 964 :-s).

I have never driven a car with billet linkages and stock cables, but just based on the size differences in the cables I can not imagine it is anywhere near Cup-like.

 

I have the numeric cables (shifter as well) but can't compare to the cup cables.

I get a little more noise in the cabin from them but nothing that would be intolerable and to me it's a sound I like. I get a little bit of gear whine at certain RPM (think of a cup car video you've seen and cut that down to just a fraction of the trans noise you hear), and I also get a little more "rattle" at idle with the clutch disengaged. That's it really.

The difference in shifting is well worth it IMO. I have the Numeric shifter as well but ran it with the stock cables for a period of time as well. When I did install the cables the shifting tightened up quite a bit. The cables are thicker, more solidly built and the ends are more stable. The only reason I'd say not to get them is if you want a "luxury" ride vs a "sport" ride and you can't tolerate even a bit more NVH.

My .02 is they are a worthwhile upgrade as well as is the Numeric shifter.

 

Honestly I never had an issue with the stock cables. They just don't have the solid feel of the Cup parts. I certainly don't know of anyone that has broken the stock cables either. You'd think if they were prone to breaking you'd hear about it on the forums. The Cup shifter / cables combo has that metallic direct click in gear that you don't get with the stock parts but overall I felt that the stock cables with a 997SSK was a great set up. I never felt like the stock cables were spongy and you can certainly destroy synchros with it just as effectively as the cup cables. It's all about the operator...

 

Definetely. Neither you nor I are prone to "power shifting" either tho (I assume!).

No, stock cables are not really spongy. I was just trying to find a term that describes a little additional flex. It's all about the speed and force applied during a shift. With a little flex, some of the impact is absorbed (in the same fashion that a sprung clutch disc absorbs shock loads vs. an unsprung disc).

But I am not willing to prove the point through experimentation