996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

D.I.Y. 996TT Redneck Engine Build Thread.

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  #16  
Old 07-13-2016, 12:12 PM
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Got my new rod bolts from Pauter last night and made some progress. First I assembled the crank. I stretched my bolts to around .0055 which was around 56 ft. lb. I assembled the new nose bearing and installed it with lube. I then dropped the crank into the case by taping up the middle rod and holding it by the top outside rods. I put the oil pump, IMS, and new chains together and dropped them in along with the seal under the pump. I should be able to seal my cases tonight.
 
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Last edited by brnrdtns; 07-13-2016 at 12:25 PM.
  #17  
Old 07-13-2016, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by brnrdtns
Got my new rod bolts from Pauter last night and made some progress. First I assembled the crank. I stretched my bolts to around .0055 which was around 56 ft. lb. I assembled the new nose bearing and installed it with lube. I then dropped the crank into the case by taping up the middle rod and holding it by the top outside rods. I put the oil pump, IMS, and new chains together and dropped them in along with the seal under the pump. I should be able to seal my cases tonight.
looks great bernard! dont be shy with the breakin lube. make sure all those bearings have plenty on them
 
  #18  
Old 07-13-2016, 11:56 PM
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No clearancing of the oil pump with the Pauter rods, correct?
 
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMGK
No clearancing of the oil pump with the Pauter rods, correct?
My understanding is that they do clear the pump. They had great customer service also. They look and feel very high quality.

The video I posted earlier is well worth the $. I went out and got more supplies last night and didn't have time to work on it. I'll try it tonight.
 
  #20  
Old 07-14-2016, 09:14 AM
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Make sure the Spec 2+ has a sprung hub. I had one unsprung and it was like an on off switch. I had to remove it and went with a 3. No problems since.
 
  #21  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMGK
No clearancing of the oil pump with the Pauter rods, correct?
correct.
 
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  #22  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by brnrdtns
My understanding is that they do clear the pump. They had great customer service also. They look and feel very high quality.

The video I posted earlier is well worth the $. I went out and got more supplies last night and didn't have time to work on it. I'll try it tonight.
I run Pauters with an RSR crank and no clearancing is required but I was under the impression with a stock TT crank you have to clearance it. I'd verify it to be sure... I may be thinking of Carillos however..
 
  #23  
Old 07-14-2016, 05:53 PM
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Carillos you do , pauters you do not
 
  #24  
Old 07-14-2016, 06:15 PM
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Subscribed. This looks like fun!
Way beyond my confidence or skill level. I'm in awe at you even attempting this!
Good Luck!!
 
  #25  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:36 PM
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Checked rod clearances over the oil pump. They do clear. #1 is pretty close and #2 is very close. #3 has plenty of room. Just to be safe I am going to shave a bit off of the #2 slot on the pump. 1 and 2 pictured.
 
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  #26  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:54 PM
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I'd heard they would clear via word of mouth, glad you checked! Better safe than sorry for sure and I now see why Carillos don't clear! :-O
 
  #27  
Old 07-15-2016, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunther
Make sure the Spec 2+ has a sprung hub. I had one unsprung and it was like an on off switch. I had to remove it and went with a 3. No problems since.
Mine is unsprung. I drove with it for a few thousand miles and I thought it was OK with the GT2 conversion and dual mass fly. The people that hated the clutch were using the hydraulic assist. Assist isn't very precise with the engagement point. That being said, I do wish that I had the 3 but didn't know it had better drivability when I purchased it.
 
  #28  
Old 07-15-2016, 01:42 AM
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Made some progress but not the exciting kind. I clearanced my oil pump a little. The rest of the time was spent scrubbing the perimiter of my cases for the sealant and organizing my parts and tools. It turns out that the Loctite 574 sealant cures in about 20 to 30 minutes, so you have to torque down the bolts as fast as you can after the cases are joined. You need to be very organized to do this. When the sealant cures it forms a crusty strong glue type bond, so you can't let it cure before you torque or it could leak from not sealing properly. I am going to rehearse the process tomorrow and go for it.
 
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2016, 05:32 AM
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Why not use Gasgacinch, Hondabond, Yamabond or Permatex aviation #3? Then you won't have to rush. Any of them will work but my favorite for sealing case halves is permatex, followed by yama or hondabond.
 
  #30  
Old 07-15-2016, 09:25 AM
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You will have to heat cycle the engine then pull it and re torque the studs
 


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