I'm inexperienced on the track with my car. I've done 5 DE days with PCA in the 8 years since I have had this car. The one consistent problem that really ruins the driving experience is a horrible vibration that occurs when using the brakes hard at high speeds. It feels like the rotors are badly warped when it happens and it makes me have to brake far earlier than I should when entering corners. After a minute of cooling down the vibration diminishes but it doesn't stop until the car has completely cooled off between sessions.
Every time I go to a track day I flush and bleed the brake fluid with motul or an equivalent high temp racing fluid. Before the second event I replaced the stock rotors with sebro slotted rotors and stock pads with cool carbons. I bedded in the pads and they seemed fine. The second lap after the straight once again I felt a heavy vibration when applying the brakes. People then started to tell me CC pads were garbage and that they will actually transfer material to to rotors which then causes the vibration issue. For the other events I used the same pads and rotors.
I'm about to try a DE at Sebring in February and I'm going to ditch the Cool Carbon pads. I just want a pad that can consistently and repeatedly slow my car from 120+ mph for a 20 minute track session. Should I consider stock pads and buy a second set of track pads or is there a brand that i can use for both duties that won’t squeak excessively and coat my wheels with dust every time I drive it.
There are no problems off the track other than heavy dust from cool carbon. I am not looking to spend fortune and i don’t feel like I should have to for my skill level.
I did find a lot of good information by searching previous posts. Im seriously considering stock pads and having the sebro rotors machined just to remove the glazing and pad material that has transferred to them.

 

Been there. This setup works:
PFC-01/8, Ferrodo, or Pagid racing pads + the cup car brake ducts that mount on control arms F+R + the good fluid. You’re in for about $1200 there. Next time you buy rotors get the 350mm 997tt ones along with the caliper spacers. These fit 18” Turbo twists (barely), otherwise confirm wheel clearance. When you do that get the Tarret caliper studs as the threads in the upright strip out with too many caliper changes.

All those pads will dust and squeal. I had the same transfer issue with Sebros and went back to OEM-spec drilled.

 

Running 350mm Sebro slotted rotors with Rennkit Cal*Cool caliper spacers and Pagid Yellows, of course better fluid (ATE). Works great on a big track like Road America.

 

I had good luck with pajid yellow on stock rotors. Pedal travel did pick up towards the end of 20 min sessions at laguna seca. I had flushed the brakes the week before with motul rbf 600. If my current car did not already have Brembo gt350 6 pot upgrade on it i would do the 997 350mm upgrade mentioned above. Stock brakes are adequate, but upgraded brakes will make you feel more secure at 130 entering the Andretti hair pin

 

I too had the same problem. Warm up lap and lap 1 no problem but by lap 2 or 3 would get brake jutter. Larger 997 rotors helped. But what helped more was a suggestion by an experienced instructor. He told me I was not hitting the brakes hard enough initially and because of that I was staying on them too long. He said you never want to be on them harder than when you first applying them and you want to get off of them as soon as possible. Worked for me.

 

I'm getting out of the track business - have a set of the PFC's (used) if you want to try them. I also upgraded the brakes to slotted 330mm - and Castrol SRF - I have 10+ years at Sebring - tough on suspension and brakes -

 

Best bet, especially if you are budget friendly guys is to go to 350mm rotor using stock calipers and an adapter kit. Huge improvement in braking torque, fade resistance, and pedal feel.

secondly, upgrade you fluid to atleast a high performance 600 degree like rbf600, but a 650 or 660 fluid is even better.

third, get some good track pads that you swap in just for track use. Carbotech Xp10 or 12, pfc 08 or 11, hawk dtc 60 or 70, etc. Tons of good track pads

Forth, spend 60 bucks and get 997 gt3 front and 997tt brake ducts. There are better one but these are very cheap and will help keep your temps down some.

This general setup work very well on track and is affordable. Lots of guys run it have no big fade issue in track and can push the car very hard, even at 600whp+ levels.

 

no matter what porsche i have had on the track over the last 15 years 964wb or 996 turbo it always pagid yellow in fr and black in bk.
I enter the bus stop at w/g at 140 to 145 and hit the brakes hard same with inner loop never a issue. I have the larger brakes up front on the tt with floating disks.
If i recall never a issue on stock brake size set up oem. I just wanted a larger front brake set up and got a good deal way back then so did the upgrade.
Hop this helps you. BTW i went down this path because a club member said just use this set up and stop going back and forth usingg different brand pads.
playing around with master cylinder size.. convering to other set ups. Its a DE not 24h of daytona. Hence cant tell you about other brands or set ups

 

if you upgraded front to 350mm, I'd highly recommend doing the rear. It will bring you bias back within check and helps the car stop much flatter and under steering on turn in less.

If you want to up your master to the 997 gt3 size, if you want to do it and keep psm you'll have to do my proportioning valve mod or it will fault the psm and abs system

 

This post does a good job of expressing my thoughts on this...I'm just doing a few 20 minute sessions on the track and I want a reliable setup. I only replaced the stock rotors with slotted rotors because I read 100 times on this forum about drilled rotors cracking and even that probably wouldn't apply in my case since I am not driving at 10/10 or even 8/10 of the car's capabilities. I believe the stock rotor size on our cars is sufficient for an HPDE. I do think I need to get dedicated pads and swap them in when I'm flushing the brake fluid before the track day. Another suggestion I think I will try is brake duct installation. I know these cars came with incredible stock brakes and I think just keeping the stock system in optimal condition for track days and using dedicated track pads is enough for someone at my skill level. Just like any mods, brakes are a slippery slope and it is easy go overboard. I am no club racer; I just want to be able to trust that my car's stopping power will be enough to compensate for the incredible (to me) speed this car can generate in a very short distance.

 

"This post does a good job of expressing my thoughts on this. I'm just doing a few 20 minute sessions on the track and I want a reliable setup"

mrmaass no worries with stock brakes on turbo for track days - 20 minute track fun over three days. To your point just get dedicated track pads. Bleed before and fater the event. check your brake lines! Keep in mind dedicated pads that have more grip will eat your rotors over time.
I help on the tech team during inspection. Hence we check brake lines, pads, crack in rotors (must not be connected or even close). I ran my turbo for a few years
on oem with fresh pads before each DE. At the glen in green, yellow, blue run groups pushing 130 to 140 into the bus stop. No issues. Keep in mind you need to check your rotors and pads all the time for wear and cracks. You will get the feel for your braking points as you progress each time in any group your in.
I updated to larger brakes, brake lines, floating set up and dedicated track pads for better brake feel at higher speeds, a liitle more control and reduce stoping distance.
In the black run group i keep my speed under 145 / 150 max mph to be safe.
you certianlly dont need to change the oem set up other than "check the entire brake system before inspection. check brake lines, pads, crack in rotors (must not be connected or even close)". This is our responsibility to be safe. hope this helps...