You don't really need to jack it up high when doing oil change. There's plenty of clearance back there; I can actually slide my body under the engine when the car is on the ground and I am fairly small.

 

I have ramps that look nearly the same only one part, (Gray plastic) $38 at Discount Autoparts. No problem with hight ( my car is not lowered) . Clearance was good even when I changed stock to FVD exhaust, no problem with front.....

 

I'm not exactly huge myself but don't fancy the idea of scalding myself on the block! I was able to get under the car to tighten all the exhaust hangers while the car was on the ground.

Can someone explain why the car needs to be at operating temperature before changing the oil? i.e. why not change the oil when it's cold. I realize it will be a bit more viscous.

 

It's easier to drain when hot. oil flows faster when hot than stone cold.

before shutting off the car, let it idle for a couple minutes to let as much oil go back to the tank as possible.

 

From Fabryce:

 

Just got my package from Suncoast with intercoolers, wipers, oil change stuff etc... I didn't like spending 37 bucks for the oil filter wrench but 5 bucks for the 999 707 465 40 separate smaller O-ring was even more offensive!!!!!! They are tiny!

I'm getting antsy to get the car on the road but it's still pretty darn cold. As soon as it gets above 5 degrees C or so I'll change the oil and get her on the road.

Thanks to Bob and everyone else here with good contributions - I like the idea of saving 100-150 bucks per oil change by doing it myself.

 

Our dealer in Vancouver sell the o-ring for $12 a piece. Even the parts guy thinks it's crazy.
if you don't have a wrench for the oil filter housing, make sure you can find a wrench that works before drain the oil, also make sure the oil is hot when you change it.
you should pick up a quality torque wrench if you don't have one already, it's going to be handy.

 

You want the oil to be hit when you change it to get all the particals within the engine suspended in the oil. With the oil being hot, and the particals suspended within it, as much of the oil and oarticls can be flushed out.

 

Good to know, thanks guys. I did buy the Porsche wrench for the oil filter housing, just didn't like paying that much for it, lol. Canadian Tire has a bunch of choices in sizes for 6 bucks but I figured wtf I'd splurge and get the Porsche one just to be sure it fit.

 

I actually tried them all from Canadian tire, none would fit. I had to use one with a rag stuck in it to get the filter off, it wasn't easy too, haha

 

lol, gotta laugh at guys like us who spend 6 figures on a car and then curse the 37 bucks for a seemingly overpriced part! I justify this behaviour by saying that it could buy a couple of steaks for the bbq.

 

That picture looks scarey - is it really OK to jack both sides using the engine block? I am sure it's a proper jacking point but still curious...

 

It is definitely okay. I just use a hockey puck.

 

With all the talks about overfill, is it advisable to fill may be 7 qts initially and start the car to check amount of oil to fill? Or do I need at minimum of 8 qts just to be on the safe side? Thanks

 

I just dont see the motors mounts withstanding the upward force of the jack