997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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DIY oil change Mezger M64 block engine M96/70 M97/70

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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:20 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by sbkim
With all the talks about overfill, is it advisable to fill may be 7 qts initially and start the car to check amount of oil to fill? Or do I need at minimum of 8 qts just to be on the safe side? Thanks
8 quarts works fine. Tell the dealer to put the 9th quart in the car and you'll top it off at a later time. I've done this last 2 oil changes and it works fine - no overfills.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jhbrennan
8 quarts works fine. Tell the dealer to put the 9th quart in the car and you'll top it off at a later time. I've done this last 2 oil changes and it works fine - no overfills.
Thanks!
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
I just dont see the motors mounts withstanding the upward force of the jack
But they withstand the additional forces whipping the car around the track?

b
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
But they withstand the additional forces whipping the car around the track?

b
I completely agree that forces that are attained at the track are extremely great. The Block isn't designed for that purpose. The motor mounts might be able to hold it, but the last thing I want to see in my car or anyone else's is a big chunk of a crankcase missing.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
I completely agree that forces that are attained at the track are extremely great. The Block isn't designed for that purpose. The motor mounts might be able to hold it, but the last thing I want to see in my car or anyone else's is a big chunk of a crankcase missing.
Most tuners that I've been to: GMG, Ruf, Markski, all lift in this fashion, provided they use something protective to prevent metal on metal contact.

I guess I trust their combined experience.

bob
 

Last edited by bbywu; Feb 21, 2011 at 07:23 PM.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #66  
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I edited the OP and changed the sequence as I found that the remaining oil flows out best when the oil filter has been removed.
 
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Thanks Bob but looks like a couple of your pictures are missing? Thanks
 
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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I think it's fixed.

Thanks!

b
 
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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This is a fantastic thread...lots to learn! I'm subscribed
 
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Well, I finally got around to changing my oil for the first time. I can't thank everyone on this post for your help. Everything went very smooth and took a bit longer than needed since I didn't want to miss anything. A few random thoughts:

1. I bought oil filter wrench from Pepboys A251 76mm by 14 flute $5

2. Got huge open oil container (about 15 qt) from Pepboys $10

3. Make sure you check to see if you have 27mm open wrench. I thought I had one but my set only went to 21mm. Got one from Sears for $20.

4. I still don't get the need for the counter torque. I placed the 27mm open wrench to avoid twisting the oil tank but it didn't really twist or turn?

5. I let both oil tank and crankcase drain for 20min. I needed a little over 8 qts to get to about mid way mark on oil gauge. I actually measured the amount that came out since I didn't want to overfill.

6. I also used cheap Rhino Ramp (for cars) with no issues or scraping in the front. I backed my car on to the ramps. My car is not lowered.

7. I wasn't able to find the tiny rubber o-ring for the filter 9999 707 465 40 so I just recylcled.
 
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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+ rep points for DIYing!
 
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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I have changed my oil 6 times now and have never replaced the small rubber gasket that sits on the tip of the oil filter cap. No one ever included it when I ordered the parts?

The Rhino Ramps are great. All you need to get are the small ones that lift the car 4". The Race Ramps are great too (raises the car 10"). Even though my car is stock if I plan on going up the ramp front first I need the optional extensions or I will just bottom out. To do an oil change the small ramp is sufficient. As an option you can use a hydraulic jack in the proper spot under the car but of course you will need to put jack stands under the car to protect yourself (I do it with the ramps too just in case).
 

Last edited by gradyex; Apr 21, 2011 at 07:00 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gradyex
I have changed my oil 6 times now and have never replaced the small rubber gasket that sits on the tip of the oil filter cap. No one ever included it when I ordered the parts?

The Rhino Ramps are great. All you need to get are the small ones that lift the car 4". The Race Ramps are great too (raises the car 10"). Even though my car is stock if I plan on going up the ramp front first I need the optional extensions or I will just bottom out. To do an oil change the small ramp is sufficient. As an option you can use a hydraulic jack in the proper spot under the car but of course you will need to put jack stands under the car to protect yourself (I do it with the ramps too just in case).
Nice tips buddy. Where is the best place to source Rhino Ramps? can these be used on coated garage floor surfaces without sliding, maybe they have some rubber on the bottoms to keep them from sliding?
 
Old Jun 28, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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Just did mine. This thread is a lifesaver. And man you guys werent joking about the speed at which the oil comes out lol

Edit. For those interested. I used the standard rhino ramps I bought at pep boys for my BMW and my suspension is pss9 set to gt2 specs and the car went up no problem. In fact I still have a good centimeter or so on the front lip. Not sure how it will be once I put on the 19" rims but with stock 18s you will have no problem.
 

Last edited by dragonman4; Jun 29, 2011 at 04:53 AM.
Old Jun 28, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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+ rep for being a DIYer!

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